Anyone ever do a engine block flush?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,289
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
if you're concerned about overheating and unsure if it's a gauge or sender issue, it is very easy and inexpensive to install an aftermarket temp gauge and hang it off under the dash. I would have to kinda wonder if only one valve cover had been replaced, and one exhaust manifold gasket (if that's the case) and if intake appears to have been off, if prior owner had blown a head gasket due to overheating, but I've read this thread over course of few days as posts appeared and might be forgetting.
As long as you have minimum 10 pounds oil pressure per 1,000 rpm and temp stays 220 and below, you're good to go.
As long as you have minimum 10 pounds oil pressure per 1,000 rpm and temp stays 220 and below, you're good to go.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 784
Likes: 25
If you want to clean out a cooling system the easy way, and not do any damage to your engine, throw in a quarter cup of Amway SA8 laundry detergent, and run it that way for a month or two. Won't hurt a thing, and it will get things really clean.
No, I don't sell the stuff.
Rapid swings in temperature often mean air pockets or a bad sender or temp gauge.
No, I don't sell the stuff.
Rapid swings in temperature often mean air pockets or a bad sender or temp gauge.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,677
Likes: 172
I have a aftermarket mechanical gauge temporarily installed now.. The PO only changed the left valve cover because it was easy to get off. The right one requires removing the upper intake.. I changed the left exhaust manifold because it was cracked. The intake doe snot appear to ever have been taken off.
It is going to be above freezing for the next 4 days so I plan on draining the system again, flush it with water, add the napa flush you run for a few days, and then flush it out again and add the correct amount of antifreeze.
Ill just keep the mechanical gauge installed through the winter and see how it does..
Interesting thought about removing the freeze plugs and power flushing the cylinder heads.. With the engine cover off I believe the ones on the back of the cylinder heads can be accessed fairly easy.. I manged to change on on my Lincoln but it was s job as there was little access to the back side of the cylinder head!
It is going to be above freezing for the next 4 days so I plan on draining the system again, flush it with water, add the napa flush you run for a few days, and then flush it out again and add the correct amount of antifreeze.
Ill just keep the mechanical gauge installed through the winter and see how it does..
Interesting thought about removing the freeze plugs and power flushing the cylinder heads.. With the engine cover off I believe the ones on the back of the cylinder heads can be accessed fairly easy.. I manged to change on on my Lincoln but it was s job as there was little access to the back side of the cylinder head!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,113
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
From reading your threads it doesn't sound like it's overheating but just bouncing the temp around and my final diagnostics is that your thermostat is just jumpy. Because it's new doesn't mean it works 100% correctly.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2014
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I think I will change the thermostat once i find the correct ford number and use an OEM one.. My 85 had overheating issues when going up hills and I put a new thermostat in it, that solved the problem. About 2 or 3 weeks later it started running higher then normal once again.. Changed the stat once again and it solved the problem...
One good point is that I just changed this one within the past month so I wont have to worry about breaking another bolt!
One good point is that I just changed this one within the past month so I wont have to worry about breaking another bolt!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
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From: norway
Engine block flush
I did it the 1st year when i got my 93 7.3idi due to the fact that the old owners had used wrong coolant, they used the blue when the yellow is the preferred coolant due to cavitation as it has all those additives that is preferable from ford, easy way is to drive it to operating temperature look at the engine driver side under the van, there is a square bolt, put something that is large enough for 10litres aprox, then undo the square bolt and all the coolant will be draining out that hole, then fill upp the truck with tap water and a bottle of coolant rinse, run for 5 min, then drain out, then fill with coolant mix and purified water WARNING the coolant can be WERY HOT so protection is preferred either have a garden hose close if you get burned or wear something waterproof so you dont get burned
Last edited by polarbear87; Jan 9, 2016 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Forgot warning
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2014
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I might further set out a theory that thermostats would probably have a +-5% variance in the temps they open at (5 degrees is only 2.5%) but nothing makes me think you are overheating.
What I would worry about is getting a 45-50% antifreeze mix in that van before you have a hard freeze.
Ford made their van oil pressure gauges into idiot lights because too many people would worry about oil pressure when it got low but was within the right range at hot idle. So they have a switch at 10 lbs or some low figure that sends voltage to the gauge thru a resistor to keep the oil pressure slightly right of center.
Good luck, and don't worry be happy,
George
What I would worry about is getting a 45-50% antifreeze mix in that van before you have a hard freeze.
Ford made their van oil pressure gauges into idiot lights because too many people would worry about oil pressure when it got low but was within the right range at hot idle. So they have a switch at 10 lbs or some low figure that sends voltage to the gauge thru a resistor to keep the oil pressure slightly right of center.
Good luck, and don't worry be happy,
George
I also found a stock OEM ford thermostat I will hopefully be putting in next week and see how that does..
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lbrauer
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jun 7, 2010 12:22 AM