Big amp draw killing my battery.
#1
Big amp draw killing my battery.
I have been searching and reading, and am confused on what to try for my situation.
2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit.
I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit.
I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though. Please help.
Thanks.
2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit.
I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit.
I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though. Please help.
Thanks.
#2
#3
Did you wait the required 35-45 minutes after disturbing ANYTHING for the battery saver to time out before make your current reading?
If you did not, your readings are premature and aren't valid, instead they're indicating the typical loads for the then current conditions.
If you did not, your readings are premature and aren't valid, instead they're indicating the typical loads for the then current conditions.
#4
#6
#7
The only thing I have been able to figure is its jacked. What do the damn things cost?
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#8
#9
We havnt had rain in a while but I'll pull it and give a once over. It's hard to understand the module is bad with everything it controls working just fine. Power door locks work, light come on and dim. I hate electrical crap. Lol
#11
the problem is that the BSM is clicking while testing, and the headlights are flickering at the same time.
You would need a second meter connected as a voltmeter across the ammeter's connections in order to confirm.
#12
This would indicate a problem with the meter or it's leads, not the BSM itself. It sounds like the meter is dropping too much voltage across it and there isn't enough left to properly run the module.
You would need a second meter connected as a voltmeter across the ammeter's connections in order to confirm.
You would need a second meter connected as a voltmeter across the ammeter's connections in order to confirm.
It was causeing the bsm to try to set off the alarm, and the big part of the draw was the headlights dimly flashing. It was dim enough that I could not see them flash during the day.
When I eliminated the the bsm draw, I was left with a 1a draw from the radio power. Apparently the cd changer was constantly trying to swap, eject, etc cd's. I installed a new radio yesterday, and this morning the truck is working as it should.
Thanks for all the help guys!
#13
hi. i'm having the same draw problem and have done all of the basic's. i have isolated it to the loom going into the fuse box from the right fender area. it's hard to pull the fuses in my truck for several reasons, all of which make it hard to pull fuses, raise up to look at tester hooked at the batt. then try to replace the pulled fuse. for me having just went through a 6th back surgery, it is almost impossible to get to the fuses closest to the firewall. maybe if i can't find a bendable little guy to help me i'll pull the right seat. i have seen in the past few days that these are not isolated problems and there are lots of folks with the same type of draw problem. i'm hoping to turn on my computer to find someone has given me the solution to finding the trouble..................waiting................th ank you
#14