Gauges...Errrrr!
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Gauges...Errrrr!
Fuel and temp gauges not working. I installed a new coolant temp sensor, gauge doesn't work. Replaced the connector into the coolant temp sensor, gauge still doesn't work. When I unplug the connector from the temp sensor the check engine light comes on, CE light goes away when reconnected. Fuel gauge not working either. What should I check? Are these gauges wired together somewhere? When I turn my heater on high I get a big voltage drop. Not sure if that's related, just throwing it out there. It's a 89 f150 straight 6 auto. (Just incase u didn't see it in my profile name)
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The connector your pulling for the TEMP gauge in the dash isn't the correct one. Your pulling the ECT sensor connector.
The temperature Sender for the 300 is in the back, passenger side, way back, with only 1 wire.
The BIG voltage drop you get with the heater on high is because of the crappy 2G alternator Ford designed. Also, the fan is old and may have some high resistance.
The temperature Sender for the 300 is in the back, passenger side, way back, with only 1 wire.
The BIG voltage drop you get with the heater on high is because of the crappy 2G alternator Ford designed. Also, the fan is old and may have some high resistance.
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The connector your pulling for the TEMP gauge in the dash isn't the correct one. Your pulling the ECT sensor connector.
The temperature Sender for the 300 is in the back, passenger side, way back, with only 1 wire.
The BIG voltage drop you get with the heater on high is because of the crappy 2G alternator Ford designed. Also, the fan is old and may have some high resistance.
The temperature Sender for the 300 is in the back, passenger side, way back, with only 1 wire.
The BIG voltage drop you get with the heater on high is because of the crappy 2G alternator Ford designed. Also, the fan is old and may have some high resistance.
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An ICVR is used in the oil pressure, fuel level and water temperature gauges (explicitly not an ammeter/voltmeter).
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I agree with Jim, ground/unground each sender's wire (with the ignition on) and see how the gauges react, they should swing fully from one direction to the other as they are grounded/ungrounded.
But like was explained above, the sending units for the dash gauges have just one wire each, never do this with any multi-conductor connector anywhere.
But like was explained above, the sending units for the dash gauges have just one wire each, never do this with any multi-conductor connector anywhere.
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The one from the way back of the engine? Where is it exactly? What does it look like?