Exactly.

But we are not so concerned about codes right now, we first need to get power to the fuel pump - which definitely requires power to the computer... and all that will be ascertained in the diagnosis process. Connecting the power backwards can do significant damage to things, but hopefully the protective measures Ford put into place (this isn't the first time it's happened) will minimize it.

But I totally agree with you, the fastest and easiest (although most expensive) method is to get it in front of somebody who knows what they're doing. But if she has the time and inclination, she's not a lost cause in my view... it will just take a while.

 

So, do we know that power is getting to the PCM?

 

She said there is power to it (in two places) yes, but let me explain...

Below is from my brother's 1996 Bronco EVTM (this diagram is for the 5.0L engine) I'd expect the 1999 E150 to be similar.

Everything interesting is contained in the Power Distribution Box under the hood.

For the PCM, power in START and RUN is supplied by Circuit #22 which is protected by a 20A fusible link (or some sort of fuse-like device, not sure what a double-squiggly indicates but it's not a standard fuse).

This then feeds power to Circuit #16 which is a red/light-green-stripe wire to what Ford calls a PCM Power Diode.

It leaves that device via a black/yellow-stripe wire on Circuit #175 and powers the PCM relay on Connection #85 (86 is the ground).

The above powers the relay only, in both START and RUN.

~~

The other side of the relay, the business end:

A always-hot wire is protected by a 30A fusible link which provides power to a yellow wire (Circuit #37) and is conencted to the pin labeled 30 on the relay.

When the relay is energized, it sends power via a red wire (Circuit #361) to the actual PCM as well as several other devices - one of which is the fuel pump relay.

That is all in the top-left corner of the diagram

~~

The fuel pump relay is on the other side... same type of stuff:

The business side is a yellow wire (Circuit #37) protected by a 20A fusible link.

The other side of the relay supplies power (via a connector labeled 87) on Circuit #238 a dark green/yellow-stripe wire...

That wire leads to Splice #139 where it branches off... one side goes to the PCM (telling it the fuel pump has power) and the other side leads to a male connector (# 202). Circuit # 238.

Next image:

Power leads to the Impact Switch and then finally to the fuel pump with some connectors in between (tired of typing).

~~

Point being...

The fuel pump not priming is key here....

Is the relay being told to provide power? Possibly, go check.

If it's being told to provide power to the pump, is it capable of doing that? IOW is there power on the yellow wire, the one protected by a different fusible link?

If it's NOT being told to provide power, then step back one device and check for power there, proceed accordingly in a systematic fashion.

~~

Everything interesting - at least on the Bronco - happens in the power distribution box, focus your efforts there. And an EVTM for your van would be good, too, although this may be enough to get you going.

 

Lol! I think I'm in the wrong thread as I can't get my head around the length of posts I'm seeing here.

Seriously though, that's really good info. I'd bet the wiring didn't change that much so the wire colors are likely to the the same, if not everything else. Given that, I'd suggest a very step-wise approach:

1. Does the PCM relay have power to it?
2. Does the PCM relay close when the key is turned on?
3. Does the PCM get power when the key is turned on?

Do those steps and get back with us. Eventually we will get there.

 

Ya know, I tell myself this will be short & sweet and fast & easy to write up.... HA!!!!!

Bet you wouldn't know anything about that, Gary.

 

(I knew you couldn't resist that set-up. )

 

You all are great. Thank you! Nothing offends me. I know I am way over my head. I am however still determined to get this thing to at the very least turn over. I have listened to all you have said and I have made some progress. I am pleased to say that the PCM is working. I was able to disconnect the bracket on the wiring harness so I could flip it over and check the connections. Now that I have had a chance to actually see how this PCM works and how the wires are connected to it I was able to follow the wires to the 2 relays that were not producing power. I am pleased to say that I found a little wire that was loose. I followed a you tube video on how to safely remove the wire clean the connection and snap it back in pace. I was so happy to see that it not only provided power to my fuel pump - I actually was able to get it to deliver gas. I saw it with my very own eyes. Now I will put the tank straps back on and reconnect everything. Hopefully that will reduce my chances of blowing up. The other relay I was having problems with is the starter relay. Getting those wires out of the PCM hub is a little more challenging because it isn't loose like the other one was. All of those wires scare me so I decided to back up and go back to the safety neutral switch. So far what I am coming up with is the starter solenoid. I am hearing your safety warnings about blowing up. I am now looking at how to test it to see if it is getting power. I am going to Harbor freight and get a testing light. I am keeping my fingers crossed that the problem is the solenoid. I will let you know. Thanks again

 

Well done! Just go step by step, like you are doing, and you will get there. And, we will watch with bated breath.

 

This is good news but I have to ask, how did a wire get 'loose' on the back side of the PCM assembly?

Did your 'friend' go digging around in there and mess with it?

This is weird but again, good luck on your continued progress, and if you are able to resolve this by yourself I will be amazed, amused, and agreeably admit I was apparently mistaken!

I am reminded of these quotes:

"Genius is one percent inspiration and ninety-nine percent perspiration."

Thomas A. Edison


"Do, or do not, there is no try"

Yoda



Smile and toil on.

 

Working on vans just sucks *****, I'm not at all jealous.

If the wires scare you, then disconnecting the battery may help - pretty much zero chance of creating a spark at that point.

The NSS keeps you from applying power to the starter solenoid unless the transmission gear selector is in the right place (P or N).

Don't worry about blowing up, it is a concentration of gasoline vapor + air + spark that would allow for that and AFAIK you have no gas vapor available at this point (but being safe and paying attention is always a smart thing to do, so kudos for that).

~~

I'm also interested in this little wire; could you please give us a link to the YouTube video? If you have a camera and can upload pictures to here that would be MARVELOUS but isn't really required at this point and would only provide some clarification and eye candy so don't go too much out of your way or anything.

(You would click the Mountain & Sun icon at the top if the editor window and insert your pictures through that interface.)

Keep us updated!

 

Must say my jaw is still hanging open after reading through this one. Quite the doozy. I'd have said get that van to a real mechanic several posts ago but apparently that's not on the table.

Anyhow sounds like you've got fuel pressure and other things working correctly now. If your battery is good and it won't engage the starter but you know it is in park or neutral and you put your ignition to "on" then you can jump the starter to force it to crank and start. Can't say for sure if it will work on your van, but you can youtube "How To Jump a Starter on a 99-04 Ford Econoline" for instructions on that.

If it starts, then you've got things isolated down pretty well. Shift interlock, ignition switch, wiring along that route. I had a 2010 with a corroded starter relay diode in the fuse box under the hood causing that symptom. I don't think the 99s even had that diode so probably not your issue. Anyhow you've at least got a mobile vehicle at that point.

Good luck.

 

So you're sayin' you're scared to tackle a little old Ford van? Geesh I thought we had a robust bunch here?!?!

 

Heh.... I choose my pain more wisely, I guess... and I come across these things in the junkyard while looking for Bronco stuff... and I see how everything is stuffed into there with virtually zero access without major contortions and/or flexible tools... and I tell myself "phuque that chit" and keep walking...

I spend a lot of time on 92-95 Taurus SHOs which are almost equally as painful but that's all done in my garage; doing this kind of stuff in the JY would just suck, I guess I am getting old and unwilling although mind-altering drugs would maybe help

 

I was recently asked about pulling an engine out of a van to work on it. No way, Jose! Been there, done that, and didn't leave anything behind so don't have to go back.

Having said that, those SHO's aren't much better. How high did they have to get that engine before they dropped it in there? Man, that's a tight fit!

As for mind-altering drugs ..... (I guess I'd better not say that)

 

I m still taking Percocet because of hernia surgery last week, it makes certain things lots more pleasant to deal with.