I know the fast and easy answer to this question is going to be delete it all together. That does seem easy until mr./mrs. dot officer has me pulled over inspecting the truck and to my luck I end up with the one dot officer that knows what they are looking for.

With that said I know I can go get a new dpf or have mine cleaned which is one place i'm stuck. The other is what else do I look for as replacements when a new dpf is installed? I've heard trouble with the egr system after replacement of the dpf. Is there anything else anyone has experienced after replacing the dpf?

 

Just read of a members deleted DPF and he turned off the EGR system; however, hasn't removed it yet. It's been 30k miles and no issues. I wonder if the DPG is gutt-able as that may be an option for you. Have you searched?

 

You can always gut the dpf and just shut off or block off the egr system, however you would still fail an inspection if they plugged a scanner in... The truck will throw a constant P1000 code because it never completes a "drive cycle".

If all they do is a visual you wouldn't have any issues with a gutted dpf and a tune though. And if you are DOT registered that is definitely the route I would take provided you are planning to delete.

Yes you can just replace the dpf with a new one, but that motor isn't going to be happy about it.

 

If WI tests diesels for emissions you may have an issue, otherwise delete way if desired.


Alternative would be a emissions friendly tuner. Banks 6 gun is be far the best for that option and is EO certified as well.


As for the dpf being replaced and then do you need to do the EGR. I would say no unless the EGR messed up the DPF because of a cooler leak.

 

I disagree with dpf friendly tuning... Anything that increases regen on these trucks is a baaaaaddd idea.

I don't believe WI has any emissions testing (MN doesn't) unless you are DOT ofc. You are always better off getting rid of the dpf and running a mild or light tune vs running any kind of dpf on tune.

 

My regens with the banks 6 gun were actually pretty far apart.


On average 500 miles empty between them.


I ran stock when towing over 10K.


The one exception to tuning with the DPF is really the banks 6 gun. It really did a great job and banks put out a quality product.


Otherwise I would agree that tuning and emissions do not go hand in hand.

 

Never been a fan of banks products. They are all overpriced and give you damn near nothing. Their tuning is not dyno tested or trap tested, from everyone I have spoken with it gives you nothing more than a "seat of the pants" feeling. And we all know thats in your head.

The problem is there is just too much restriction in the exhaust for tuning that is going to make any big changes.

I do know there are some huge advances in tuning with the dpf on with the 6.7 psd and 6.7 cummins platforms, but the 6.4 suffers way too much as it is due to the dpf. You can't add fuel because it increases oil dilution and timing is risking pistons wayyyy too much when you can't pull enough air due to the exhaust restriction to keep egts down.

 

The main problem I have is I don't only have to worry about WI. I am DOT registered and we go racing all over the eastern half of the U.S.. So I wasn't looking to delete, rather any information on replacing the dpf and a heads up about other areas of the truck to keep an eye on that replacing dpf may effect. Main reason I bring this up is that regens have become a lot more frequent and when it goes into regen whitish smoke blows out the exhaust the first few miles a lot more then it ever has at any temperature and speed. I was always told the whitish smoke is normal during regen if the truck isn't up to temp., but now it does seem to matter. I also have 130k on the truck and I know its time to replace or clean per the manual.

 

White smoke is normal during regen (at the start) to a point. The bigger question is how many miles do you get between regen cycles?? It may not be the dpf that is the problem... It could very well be a leaking turbo seal. The oil that burns gets caught in the dpf and will cause excessive regen...

Usually when a turbo starts failing or has failed the dpf isn't far behind...

 

I have had my DPF with the stuffing knocked out (piece of rebar and a hammer worked the best) for about 20,000 miles and it is a different truck. Fuel economy didn't go up much 2mpg city and 4-6mpg hwy. But towing is where I have seen the most incredible difference. Pulls so much better. This engine just runs better with out the DPF on it. I have a very light tune on it (+40hp) because I have heard the really big tunes have too much timing and I pull a lot so. I would just pull the DPF off and do what I did, easy enough and it looks stock. Can be a biiiiaatch to get off because the top bolt is longer.

 

Wouldn't simply gutting the DPF throw off the exhaust pressure sensors then throw a constant code? I'd like to do something to my DPF to extend engine life, but haven't decided on which way to go yet. Any ideas?
Thx, Tony

 

Yes, you have to tune the truck. I have a custom tune on my truck. There are some commercial tuners that will tune the truck for DPF delete but not sure which is the best one. I would highly suggest deleting the DPF, it is very hard on the engine, of course a really hot tune can be hard on it too. I run a light tune (+40hp) and it is plenty of power for me.

 

It's been a while since I've checked this thread out. Thanks to all that have replied.

Currently I'm getting about 120-150 miles between regen unloaded and with on and off towing a 48 ft enclosed trailer its about 80-100 miles. This weekend I took a unloaded trip from near Green Bay, WI to St. Louis, MO and I was right around 180-190 miles between regen. The only time I have noticeable smoke(I mean it will smoke out the car behind me for about 2-3 mins) is when the truck goes into regen in town at slower speeds, at highway speed I don't at least notice and smoke but can hear the engine pitch change if I don't happen to catch the message come across the screen in the gauge cluster.

If it happens to be the turbo seals what is involved with replacing those? Also what can I do to check if it is without tearing it apart?

Thanks again for the replies

 

Yeah, that's about right. I can squeeze maybe 225miles tops between regens running unloaded if I'm driving smoke-friendly...meaning no hard launches from a stop or heavy pedal action. Usually, it's down in the 175-200mile range around town. I think blowing out a bunch of DPF ash helps.

 

use lucus DPF cleaner for a few tank fuls before deciding on DPF replacement.