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Looks like its time for a new motor

 
  #1  
Old 12-26-2015, 02:13 PM
good9682
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Looks like its time for a new motor

We'll the truck has started running like crap. Missing out smoking like crazy at idle. Checked compression all are 400-410 except #5 it was 200. Put a little oil in cylinder and got close to 300. I checked compression at full operating temperature. Put all the glow plugs back in then started it up and pulled wires off each injector, all but #5 made a noticeable difference.

Any recommendations on a long block. I may search for low mileage junk yard motor but I'm not holding out much hope on that option.
 
  #2  
Old 12-26-2015, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by good9682 View Post
We'll the truck has started running like crap. Missing out smoking like crazy at idle. Checked compression all are 400-410 except #5 it was 200. Put a little oil in cylinder and got close to 300. I checked compression at full operating temperature. Put all the glow plugs back in then started it up and pulled wires off each injector, all but #5 made a noticeable difference.

Any recommendations on a long block. I may search for low mileage junk yard motor but I'm not holding out much hope on that option.
Did you do a leak down test? Wouldn't it be cheaper to just fix that cylinder/ piston, the rest have good compression, i would check that cylinder to see what happened might be salvageable.
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:01 PM
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I did pressurize the cylinder but could only hear air going back into the block. To fix the one cylinder wouldn't I still have to pull the motor and do a complete tear down?
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:12 PM
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Yep!!!, it's going to be that simple of an answer.
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by good9682 View Post
I did pressurize the cylinder but could only hear air going back into the block. To fix the one cylinder wouldn't I still have to pull the motor and do a complete tear down?
Removal of engine yes, but complete tear down I thought it since the piston and rod can come out the bottom of the block and you can just buy a head gasket, thats only if the cylinder wall is salvageable, if you have to cut some, or re-sleave it then yes might as well go for a reman, used(rolling a dice here) or rebuild yours
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:18 PM
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The pistons and rods cannot come out through the bottom.
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:24 PM
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Duplicate post
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:26 PM
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Did you check the torque on the injector hold down bolts on #5?
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:43 PM
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Yes checked torque on all injectors. They were all ok, 120 inch pounds.
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu View Post
The pistons and rods cannot come out through the bottom.
I though they did. My bad
 
  #11  
Old 12-26-2015, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by good9682 View Post
Yes checked torque on all injectors. They were all ok, 120 inch pounds.
Well, that is a huge bummer.

The only thing left that I would suggest is when you pull the injectors for the rebuild, pay close attention to the washer and cup on #5 to see if there are any major irregularities.

If there are none, then pull that head first to see if you have a valve that is burnt or cracked on #5.
 
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:14 PM
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I've already done injector cups about a year ago, just did injectors a few weeks ago. I did injector cups twice, the first set I didn't get everything clean enough and they didn't seal. I didn't notice anything unusual when I did the injectors. It does run better with the new injectors, since the old ones had 300,000 plus on them, but it's not 100%. There is a local machine shop that has an engine that he might make a good deal on. I'm going to talk to them Monday. Otherwise I'm leaning towards a ford reman long block.
 
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:43 AM
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I talked with the local machine shop this morning. They have a complete motor with the machine work already done, it is unassembled. I can get it for $1500.00 or they will buy the overhaul kit and assemble it to a long block for $3500.00.

Has anyone done assembly on one of these motors? I'm pretty mechanical inclined and have done some small block motors many years ago. What are the pitfalls to assembling myself. This would free up some money for a new turbo, up pipes and hp oil pump. I would go with an overhaul kit from riffraff so I would know good parts are used.

If they assemble the long block I get a 90 day warranty.

Ford reman long block is my other option with 2 year unlimited mileage warranty which gives me some piece of mind but leaves no money for extras. Which I'm afraid I'll be replacing soon at some point since I've got 300,000 on her.

One other question am I hurting anything like my new injectors by continuing to drive it with the one bad compression on one cylinder? If it's not going to hurt anything it buys me time to do the build myself, if I'm going to trash my new injectors then time becomes a factor.

Thanks for any and all input here.
 
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:11 PM
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As far as driving depends what's wrong in that cylinder. Could take out the hole block. you said it wasn't a valve in so many words so who really knows. Sorry I couldn't re-insure you this is just my opinion.
 
  #15  
Old 12-28-2015, 01:47 PM
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I guess it boils down to if you believe $2000 is worth the 90 day warranty. If you can wrench and with the help of the experience on this site sounds like you can handle it.

How much is the Ford Reman?

Also check your local CL adds like this one:

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/5332858182.html
 

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