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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 07:37 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by IICAP
Did you try rotating in both direction and if yes the advance is probably frozen. Rotate the engine until your timing mark is at TDC, remove dist cap and see if rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire in the cap. If not turn engine over once more to TDC again rotor should point to#1. Remove the distributor and set up in a vice, remove vacuum unit, then the plate the points and condenser sit on. Underneath you will find the advance mechanism. Take out the little felt in the center of the shaft under where the rotor sits. Lube it all with a rust penetrant. You want to try and free up by holding the dizzy drive gear and grabbing the shaft where rotor sits and gently working back and forth. I use pliers on the drive gear and a vise grip at the rotor end. GO EASY, you don;t want to break anything.
Haven't tried that yet but what about a a new dizzy but the local part store has nothing will any other dizzy from different years fit?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 07:39 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jason7482
Haven't tried that yet but what about a a new dizzy but the local part store has nothing will any other dizzy from different years fit?
When it rains it pours. Just change my oil / filter and fuel filter and now for the first time ever it smokes white out of driver side exhaust and in the engine bay. What's going on?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 09:11 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jason7482
Haven't tried that yet but what about a a new dizzy but the local part store has nothing will any other dizzy from different years fit?
Jason, try to fix your dizzy as I have suggested. If your successful, think of the knowledge you have gained. That advance mechanism has to be free and smooth with no hang ups. When you put the dizzy back in the rotor should face # 1 as when you took it out to keep the engine timed properly. Sometimes a little tricky to get the dizzy all the way down as it has to engage the oil pump drive as it goes down. A turning of the engine slightly left or right will help it go down. Be sure you use a timing light and set the timing to stock spec at this point. Engine has to be warmed up and at stock idle RPM, vacuum line disconnected and plugged.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 09:24 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jason7482
When it rains it pours. Just change my oil / filter and fuel filter and now for the first time ever it smokes white out of driver side exhaust and in the engine bay. What's going on?
What's going on? What valve cover has the oil fill cap? Have you ever had the valve covers off? Is it possible the oil drains are sludged up and took a long time for the oil to get to the crankcase? We have no history of your engine. It may have bad valve seals and some oil may have gone down the intake valve guides on that side and smoked badly when you started it. Did it clear up after you let it run awhile?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 10:14 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by IICAP
What's going on? What valve cover has the oil fill cap? Have you ever had the valve covers off? Is it possible the oil drains are sludged up and took a long time for the oil to get to the crankcase? We have no history of your engine. It may have bad valve seals and some oil may have gone down the intake valve guides on that side and smoked badly when you started it. Did it clear up after you let it run awhile?
Oil cap is on the drivers side,I've had the valve covers off recently to clean. The heads are bone stock from 1966. I have m/t valve covers and I couldn't get the pcv valve out if that matters. I let it run 15 minutes and it still was smoking not as bad at idle. The truck has 193000 miles.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 10:29 AM
  #21  
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If your PCV valve is sludged up and stuck that would be a possible cause of a lot of piston blow-by going the wrong way. Instead of the blow-by getting recirculated and reburnt it either comes out the exhaust pipe or backfills into the engine compartment or both.


One possible cause, anyway.


.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 10:56 AM
  #22  
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Wow, I keep learning a lot thru this forum.

Sounds like Jason may have some deeper issues here then this, but -

Want to mention, at least for future searchers or when he gets it cleaned up, after recently rebuilding my autolite 2100 (2bbl) carb for a power valve leak (identified by all that fuel sloshing around on the intake manifold), I adjusted the idle mixture screws as suggested in earlier posts. Over time the carb had slowly degraded and I forgotten the power output I should have been getting. 15 minutes just fiddling with manual by ear adjustments and the truck's a jet now . Who knew, I mean "idle adjustment screws" ? I thought I was just cleaning up the idle.

Jason, as suggested, I would stick with the 2bbl were I you.

If interested and when you get there, search “idle mixture screws” with the quotes in advance search and you'll find adjustment guidance – from Tedster and others, on how to do this. Or, in short, try this link :

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-to-issue.html

Good luck resolving your issues.

Thanks Tedster and others – you've all saved me many hours and dollars. Regards to all of you. Steve
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 10:57 AM
  #23  
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One other thought - you didn't put in one quart of oil too much, did you perhaps? Too much oil would cause it to smoke pretty good.


If it is white smoke, like water/coolant steam instead of a pale blue smoke like oil burning then it could also be a blown head gasket. If the head gasket blew between a cylinder on the drivers side and a water jacket then it would blow white smoke out the tailpipe and if you have a leaking exhaust manifold it could come out there, too.


.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 12:33 PM
  #24  
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Jason i've just reread the thread from start to here and every one has made valid points to your various problems. The 193,000 miles says she's seen a lot of use and that's OK. If it still hits all 8 with no definite, consistent miss, then you probably can get it to run good yet. But you have a number of things to address.

If you don't know history it probably needs a timing chain and gears. Some one else has to say something here if they know a definite. With dist cap off, get a Bbar and socket to fit front crankshaft bolt. Turn the engine in roatation until rotor turns. Mark the damper with a chalk or something at the timing pointer. Now turn the engine back the other way while watching the rotor and stop when the rotor begins to move and mark again. If the distance between marks is, say an inch or more you have worn chain and gears. I'm not positive on the inch figure, maybe someone else can comment.

On the smoking, when you cleaned under the V covers did you take a coat hanger or something to poke the drains at each end of the head all the way thru to the valley?. The drains are not very big and sludge will restrict/block them. Don't know if it is a 4 or 5 qt pan and yes an extra qt for the filter. After sitting overnight, check oil make sure not over full as TA455HO suggest.

With these miles and if never been changed, the valve seals will have hardened and cracked, possibly fallen apart and pieces will have found there way to the oil drains in the head.

Here's one I don't see talked about. When the truck was new with single exhaust there was a heat riser on the drivers side exhaust manifold. Its purpose was to direct exhaust thru a port in the center of the head to and thru the intake manifold to the passenger side head and out the the passenger side exhaust manifold. This was to heat the plenum of the intake manifold to vaporize the fuel coming in from the carb. Well these ports are small and they become blocked with carbon. So now you have a plenum that's not getting heated and the result is a very bad stumble/hesitation when you try to accelerate. After 45 min or an hour or so enough heat from the engine running will migrate to the plenum and performance becomes better. You cannot clean the ports in the head completely while on the engine, I've tried for hrs. At the time of a valve job, the Machine shop has to cook them in a hot tank solution to eat all the carbon a way. How many people do a super tune up, maybe a brand new Carb and still have a hesitation. The cold plenum is the reason.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 12:47 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by IICAP
Jason i've just reread the thread from start to here and every one has made valid points to your various problems. The 193,000 miles says she's seen a lot of use and that's OK. If it still hits all 8 with no definite, consistent miss, then you probably can get it to run good yet. But you have a number of things to address.

If you don't know history it probably needs a timing chain and gears. Some one else has to say something here if they know a definite. With dist cap off, get a Bbar and socket to fit front crankshaft bolt. Turn the engine in roatation until rotor turns. Mark the damper with a chalk or something at the timing pointer. Now turn the engine back the other way while watching the rotor and stop when the rotor begins to move and mark again. If the distance between marks is, say an inch or more you have worn chain and gears. I'm not positive on the inch figure, maybe someone else can comment.

On the smoking, when you cleaned under the V covers did you take a coat hanger or something to poke the drains at each end of the head all the way thru to the valley?. The drains are not very big and sludge will restrict/block them. Don't know if it is a 4 or 5 qt pan and yes an extra qt for the filter. After sitting overnight, check oil make sure not over full as TA455HO suggest.

With these miles and if never been changed, the valve seals will have hardened and cracked, possibly fallen apart and pieces will have found there way to the oil drains in the head.

Here's one I don't see talked about. When the truck was new with single exhaust there was a heat riser on the drivers side exhaust manifold. Its purpose was to direct exhaust thru a port in the center of the head to and thru the intake manifold to the passenger side head and out the the passenger side exhaust manifold. This was to heat the plenum of the intake manifold to vaporize the fuel coming in from the carb. Well these ports are small and they become blocked with carbon. So now you have a plenum that's not getting heated and the result is a very bad stumble/hesitation when you try to accelerate. After 45 min or an hour or so enough heat from the engine running will migrate to the plenum and performance becomes better. You cannot clean the ports in the head completely while on the engine, I've tried for hrs. At the time of a valve job, the Machine shop has to cook them in a hot tank solution to eat all the carbon a way. How many people do a super tune up, maybe a brand new Carb and still have a hesitation. The cold plenum is the reason.
Well well well. I go home for lunch today crank the truck and no smoke. Really? Based on suggestions I should have heads redone and change timing chain based on mileage? Once again thank you guys for all the help. Little by little we will get if figured out.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 01:17 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jsfrenchfl
"Thanks Tedster and others you've all saved me many hours and dollars. Regards to all of you". Steve
Glad I haven't wasted my breath, sometimes it can seem that way! Just be sure and return the favor and help somebody else when you can. It's a great hobby.
 
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