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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

stanadyne cetane

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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 08:56 AM
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stanadyne cetane

How is this stuff, my local auto store carries it now. It's the blue label one.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 09:00 AM
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I run Opti-Lube, but Stanadyne is likely better than Diesel Kleen.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 09:33 AM
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Where can you buy obtilube? I have been using the pm22a but I have to order it online. And autozone seems to only carry diesel clean and stanadye. Biggest thing the non ford additve won't void the warranty if something happens will it. I'm basically looking for the best protection I can get from a additive
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 10:20 AM
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I use the Stanadyne blue. It is formulated for year round use. I generally buy it on eBay for around $83 for 12 bottles. With the large Titan tank, I pour a full bottle when required.

Ford PM22 is made by Sta-Bil. and should be as good as any and better than DK for water removal. I have gotten my Ford dealer to match some of the online prices and sell for approx $7.85 a bottle plus local tax.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 11:03 AM
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Unless your in frigid temps or worried about your fuel quality, none are needed IMHO.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 11:33 AM
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I buy my PM22 in Gallon containers From my Dealer for $50.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 69cj
Unless your in frigid temps or worried about your fuel quality, none are needed IMHO.
Most people use additives not so much for cetane boost but lubricity and water removal. Water is a killer on the 6.7L. ULSD is hydroscopic. It has an affinity to absorb water.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tony montana 42
Where can you buy obtilube? I have been using the pm22a but I have to order it online. And autozone seems to only carry diesel clean and stanadye. Biggest thing the non ford additve won't void the warranty if something happens will it. I'm basically looking for the best protection I can get from a additive
Here is where:

Diesel Fuel Lube ? Save Money on Your Opti-lube Order

Here is why:

Diesel Additives - study done by Diesel Place.. - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Unless you see temperatures in the single digits (F), I wouldn't bother with winter additives as winter fuel already has some anti-gel.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
Most people use additives not so much for cetane boost but lubricity and water removal. Water is a killer on the 6.7L. ULSD is hydroscopic. It has an affinity to absorb water.
I use diesel additives for all of the above. Lubricity saves the pump and injectors, cetane reduces soot which helps the DPF and improves fuel mileage.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 05:37 PM
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I run additives for cetane, lubricity, water, and anti-gel... IF the station has a cetane sticker on it around me, it says '40'. The good book (Ford Owners Manual) says 45 is the magic number. So a little cetane boost is a good thing, IMHO. I am not saying you HAVE to run it, just why I do.

As long as the additive you are running doesn't have alcohol of any kind in it, you should be OK. Even though diesel 9-1-1 does, in an absolute emergency I would use it. I have it and haven't had to yet... (thankfully) as the winter anti-gel from Power Service (DK) got the fuel clean enough to burn.

I've run Stanadyne before I liked it as well...
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 06:43 PM
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Does the stanadye have any alcohol in it?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
Most people use additives not so much for cetane boost but lubricity and water removal. Water is a killer on the 6.7L. ULSD is hydroscopic. It has an affinity to absorb water.
The additives mentioned will do nothing for water removal and these engines are designed for todays fuel. Not going to debate, it's your money.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tony montana 42
Does the stanadyne have any alcohol in it?
No.........
I have been using it since October 2011.........
(2011 F-350 SRW)
(2015 F-350 DRW)

I read everything I could get ahold of....
My son is a Ph.D Chemical Engineer......He further looking into research done while he was at the University of Arizona......
What I came up with:
Cetane and lubricity of US diesel varies widely.....
Aiding the ability of the fuel/water separator to remove water is a good thing....

Stanadyne is one of a number of additives that:
1. Increase Cetane
2. Increase Lubricity
3. Aide in the removal of water

Do you need it ??.........Personal decision.

I feel it is worth it..........
 
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Old Dec 26, 2015 | 04:31 PM
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Out of all the thing we put into these trucks, additives are pretty cheap... and while I used to NOT be a believer in them, I am now. Especially after a no-start, and then adding an additive it started up...

If you do it the most expensive way, which is buy it single 8 oz. bottles which treats 30 gal. for $5, you add .16 per gal... If you buy the 64 oz. for $20 then it's .08 per gal...

Like what 69cj and Roy say - It's personal choice. I never felt I needed it in South Florida where we have pretty decent fuel and the temps are never cold. I still used it most of the time and always wondered. In Alaska the fuel quality is a little more suspect, in the winter its mostly #1/Kerosene and I have had it work out for me. If you drive a lot then .08 to .16 per gal may be cost prohibitive. I've had my 2015 for 15 months I have just over 8k miles... So I've spent an extra $40 so far, give or take.

I really want the study that was done in 2007 repeated with the new formulas out so we know for sure.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2015 | 05:56 PM
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You may not want to debate, but you should want to learn. These engines were designed for the cetane 45 that is fresh with no water. The ONLY place you can be sure to get the 45 is in California, a few counties in Texas, and where the pump has that label. Otherwise it will be 40 or less.

The refining process for Ultra Low SULPHUR diesel takes out almost almost lubricating properties the"old" diesel and "old" Low Sulphur diesel fuels had.


Originally Posted by 69cj
The additives mentioned will do nothing for water removal and these engines are designed for todays fuel. Not going to debate, it's your money.
 
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