Let me get this right does the fuse blow when you get to the first position on the key switch. I suggest you replace the fuse and turn the key to the first position DO NOT TRY TO START THE TRUCK. I believe the radio should come on. If it blows the fuse in the first position I do not know what to tell you to do next. Because fuse 28 in the passenger compartment is only supposed to supply the radio and nothing else and should not have anything to do with starting the vehicle.

 

I give up. If you cannot answer that simple of a question clearly, the odds of following instructions that involve troubleshooting a complex circuit with an intermittent short circuit are approximately zero.

Good luck.

 

Way to be a dick, sorry I was confused but your right guess being able to do anything other than have someone talk down to me on the internet is impossible so thanks for nothing good luck at life with yourpiss poor attitude

 

Leave fuse 28 out and have less grief.

 

It's not important anymore I have to go back out east for work. I will just pay the dealership so I don't have to **** with it.

 



 



 

Ok so I have a 2016 f250.. I too am having same issue of F28 blowing intermittently when starting.. it is F28 not f27 and it is not the radio.. it is a ignition fuse..what funny is the doors lock and unlock with fob.. and even the remote start works.. however the key in ignition does nothing.. acts like batteries are dead.. was working and had to have towed to dealer first time and took them all day and they wrote up fuse f28 blowen.. voltages good.. this is now a weekly occurrence... wires look good..voltages good.. just randomly blows during night before starting in morning..very frustrating..

 

You might want to take down that photo and edit it, it has your email address and cell phone number on it.

In any event, your '16 is a generation newer than the OP's truck, the fuses are all different, and there's just not much of a good reason reason to have necro'd this old thread, especially since your symptoms were different.

 

I have 3 ford f250 2011 / 2016 and a 2017 the 2011 and 2016 are identical and the 2017 is a different generation.. and the issue the guy described is the problem I am having... the symptoms are the same as he was talking about. I posted to see if others are having similar problems with this fuse..

 

@Sybertiger1

Thank you for utilizing the search feature of FTE to avail yourself to the past experiences of other members reporting the same issue that you are experiencing right now.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with resurrecting an old thread (aka "necro posting"). In fact, it makes perfect sense to do so, for several reasons.

1. It shows that the topic has already been searched.

2. It gathers the attention of previous respondents who were automatically subscribed to the thread as a result of their previous reply... including the OP with the original problem, as well as the members who were trying to help solve the problem,

3. It calls attention to the possibility of a pattern in failure modality, and patterns are more readily observed when multiple members report the same issue in one thread, rather than each member reporting their own issue in a different thread.

4. It improves search engine optimization both within and outside of FTE, as the more discussion that occurs on a given topic in a given thread, the more keywords (or the more usage instances of the same keyword) help future readers find the answer.

5. Finally, there is nothing in the FTE Site Guidelines that either prohibits or discourages bringing up old threads. That's why we don't delete old threads... because old threads remain useful for the next wave of searchers to learn from.

However, the FTE Site Guidelines do prohibit personal attacks, and FTE moderators discourage personal bickering on the forums. That is why this thread was closed for about an hour.

So with all that in mind, let's return focus back on to the most recently reported incarnation of a fuse blowing when turning the ignition key.

While the 2011 model year is similar to the 2016, the earlier 2010 is a bit different, and belongs to the 2008-2010 Super Duty era, before Ford made major changes (in engines, transmissions, and electrical) at the introduction of the 2011 model year.

Where the electrical changes relate to the topic of this thread are illustrated below by a simple comparison of the Owner's Manuals between the 2010 and the 2011 model years, shown in the two mages below:

2010 below:



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2011 below:



Thread re-opened