Cracked frame
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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Any reason why? I know its not great like true MIG or TIG but i dont have hundreds to spend on a great machine and cant take the truckto someone to weld as the alignment and still really off from replacing the front end stuff / lift. Flux core i have seen does a "decent" job at exactly what needs done. sticking medal together 
Unless you know of another welder that is around the same price thats better, im low on options time and money
Unless you know of another welder that is around the same price thats better, im low on options time and money
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 913
Likes: 7
Any reason why? I know its not great like true MIG or TIG but i dont have hundreds to spend on a great machine and cant take the truckto someone to weld as the alignment and still really off from replacing the front end stuff / lift. Flux core i have seen does a "decent" job at exactly what needs done. sticking medal together Unless you know of another welder that is around the same price thats better, im low on options time and money
Unless you know of another welder that is around the same price thats better, im low on options time and moneyIf you just want to limp it along, I guess it'll work. But dont expect a miracle.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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If you're doing with the full intention of repairing it for good, I'll tell you to stay away from flux core. Messy, and normally a very ugly and "incomplete" weld. Especially if you've never welded before.
If you just want to limp it along, I guess it'll work. But dont expect a miracle.
If you just want to limp it along, I guess it'll work. But dont expect a miracle.
my ideas aren't always the best
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 913
Likes: 7
What would you do then personally if it was your truck and in my situation? Its just to hold the radiator and bumper honestly, I dont plan on having the truck forever, Its just going to be a winter truck since normally ohio winters are real bad and something to drive when i start my rebuild from the frame up on my old 302 95 come spring since that frame is good, planned on new motor and such. If you have a better idea please say so, im fully open for suggestions and help which is why i posted here my ideas aren't always the best
my ideas aren't always the bestFollow the welding procedure outlined earlier in the thread.
Clean the area as well as possible. Foaming oven cleaner, brake cleaner, and wire brush, then sandblast to ensure no contaminants. And certainly endgrind/clean up where I stop welds to also weld on the backside to ensure penetration. Grind down the welds flush, And I'd contemplate and making a crossmember for that area to help reduce flex.
Elder User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 785
Likes: 2
I wholeheartedly disagree with this assessment. Flux core welding is a very capable process, and there's nothing "incomplete" about the weld beads unless you have no idea what you're doing. The beads aren't as "pretty" as solid wire, but that has absolutely zero bearing on the structural integrity of the weld. WPS codes for flux core wouldn't exist if it wasn't a process capable of welding something "for good." A proper flux core weld is every bit as permanent as a low-hy stick weld.
If you're doing with the full intention of repairing it for good, I'll tell you to stay away from flux core. Messy, and normally a very ugly and "incomplete" weld. Especially if you've never welded before.
If you just want to limp it along, I guess it'll work. But dont expect a miracle.
If you just want to limp it along, I guess it'll work. But dont expect a miracle.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 913
Likes: 7
I wholeheartedly disagree with this assessment. Flux core welding is a very capable process, and there's nothing "incomplete" about the weld beads unless you have no idea what you're doing. The beads aren't as "pretty" as solid wire, but that has absolutely zero bearing on the structural integrity of the weld. WPS codes for flux core wouldn't exist if it wasn't a process capable of welding something "for good." A proper flux core weld is every bit as permanent as a low-hy stick weld.
Hardly a beginner friendly process.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
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If it were mine?
Follow the welding procedure outlined earlier in the thread.
Clean the area as well as possible. Foaming oven cleaner, brake cleaner, and wire brush, then sandblast to ensure no contaminants. And certainly endgrind/clean up where I stop welds to also weld on the backside to ensure penetration. Grind down the welds flush, And I'd contemplate and making a crossmember for that area to help reduce flex.
Follow the welding procedure outlined earlier in the thread.
Clean the area as well as possible. Foaming oven cleaner, brake cleaner, and wire brush, then sandblast to ensure no contaminants. And certainly endgrind/clean up where I stop welds to also weld on the backside to ensure penetration. Grind down the welds flush, And I'd contemplate and making a crossmember for that area to help reduce flex.
I wholeheartedly disagree with this assessment. Flux core welding is a very capable process, and there's nothing "incomplete" about the weld beads unless you have no idea what you're doing. The beads aren't as "pretty" as solid wire, but that has absolutely zero bearing on the structural integrity of the weld. WPS codes for flux core wouldn't exist if it wasn't a process capable of welding something "for good." A proper flux core weld is every bit as permanent as a low-hy stick weld.
I've seen alot of people use the same cheapo machine and the welds penetrate just fine. Should be able to stick a plate to the frame without issues
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,453
Likes: 5,521
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
If it were mine?
Follow the welding procedure outlined earlier in the thread.
Clean the area as well as possible. Foaming oven cleaner, brake cleaner, and wire brush, then sandblast to ensure no contaminants. And certainly endgrind/clean up where I stop welds to also weld on the backside to ensure penetration. Grind down the welds flush, And I'd contemplate and making a crossmember for that area to help reduce flex.
Follow the welding procedure outlined earlier in the thread.
Clean the area as well as possible. Foaming oven cleaner, brake cleaner, and wire brush, then sandblast to ensure no contaminants. And certainly endgrind/clean up where I stop welds to also weld on the backside to ensure penetration. Grind down the welds flush, And I'd contemplate and making a crossmember for that area to help reduce flex.
THE active ingredient in brake cleaner turns into deadly phosgene gas when exposed to heat.
read this before welding:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10561103
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Elder User
Joined: May 2015
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Yes! Good catch, Tom. Do not, under any circumstances, use brake cleaner on or around ANY metal to be welded.
Austin, the decision is yours, but this Krogoth guy doesn't seem like he knows a whole lot about welding. You won't have any problems running flux core. You should definitely plan on practicing first so you can get your machine dialed in. If you have questions regarding the specific weld procedure with flux core, feel free to PM me.
Austin, the decision is yours, but this Krogoth guy doesn't seem like he knows a whole lot about welding. You won't have any problems running flux core. You should definitely plan on practicing first so you can get your machine dialed in. If you have questions regarding the specific weld procedure with flux core, feel free to PM me.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
"Ugly" yea but its just splatter nothing can't be knocked off easily and or shielded from by using sheet tin where needed, "incomplete" no I use flux core because I do 99% of my welding outside no need to worry about shielding gas blowing away.
While not ideal he jump right in weld its frame as part of his early learning curve its not something undo-able no.
Practice first and a lot and not just with the steel stock laying flat on the work bench. Gonna weld vertical on the frame? then practice welding vertical too and while in not so comfy position too.
Don't cheap out on welding helmet, if you can't see what you're doing? you can not weld properly.
While not ideal he jump right in weld its frame as part of his early learning curve its not something undo-able no.
Practice first and a lot and not just with the steel stock laying flat on the work bench. Gonna weld vertical on the frame? then practice welding vertical too and while in not so comfy position too.
Don't cheap out on welding helmet, if you can't see what you're doing? you can not weld properly.
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Senior User
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NEVER EVER EVER EVER USE BRAKE CLEANER TO PREP A SURFACE BEFORE WELDING!!!!!!
THE active ingredient in brake cleaner turns into deadly phosgene gas when exposed to heat.
read this before welding:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10561103
THE active ingredient in brake cleaner turns into deadly phosgene gas when exposed to heat.
read this before welding:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10561103
Yes! Good catch, Tom. Do not, under any circumstances, use brake cleaner on or around ANY metal to be welded.
Austin, the decision is yours, but this Krogoth guy doesn't seem like he knows a whole lot about welding. You won't have any problems running flux core. You should definitely plan on practicing first so you can get your machine dialed in. If you have questions regarding the specific weld procedure with flux core, feel free to PM me.
Austin, the decision is yours, but this Krogoth guy doesn't seem like he knows a whole lot about welding. You won't have any problems running flux core. You should definitely plan on practicing first so you can get your machine dialed in. If you have questions regarding the specific weld procedure with flux core, feel free to PM me.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,409
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From: Clitherall, MN.
I have a Hobart 125 flux core that does just fine for lighter gauge stuff. I have welded up to 5/16 with it cranked up but the pieces were not anything structural. One thing about the smaller welders is they have limits. Not sure I would go the Harbor Fright way either. If you can spend a bit more do it. You get what you pay for. It took me a while to get proficient with my little one ie. practice makes pretty darn good. Any stuff bigger than 1/4 inch I use my Forney stick welder. Very smooth running unit. Follow Russells' tutorial and you will do fine. Great tute by the way Russell.
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Senior User
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Thanks for all the help guys, I think I will be going with the 90 amp Flux Core Mig welder just because it is in my price range at the time. Once I get good and the basics down with welding down the road I will get a real good one as its something I plan on doing alot of. That Tutorial was amazing and helps alot! Im honestly not even really to concerned about the crack but the 4x4 shop wouldn't align the truck with the crack as a saftly hazard or whatever even though it didn't even effect steering. More so doing it just so i can get it aligned and actually driving.... Anyone got any preferences on welding helmets while on the subject? preferably around 50 bucks or so, dont have a whole lot to play with
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,146
Likes: 32
From: Maryville, TN
That will be a vertical weld I'm guessing, in an uncomfortable position. The weld, when done properly, will be stronger than the metal around it, I would suggest watching videos on how to vertical weld, then practice, practice, practice. Start just by trying to run a straight bead on a piece of metal. Then lay a piece of metal on another and try to run a straight bead, centered in the joint. When you get the hang of it, you will know it. Use a small rod. Multiple passes are much stronger than one heavy pass. I am a certified 3G welder, but I don't do it enough to get what I call great results out in the field. It's amazing the difference in my welds 20 minutes or so after starting. When I test, I have no problem on a work bench, at the perfect height, in an indoor environment. Get all the flux off! Get a pick, and clean every time you stop. In a bend test, that flux you leave in will show up as cracks/voids.