Wheel bearing problems
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I changed the carrier bearing, along with every u-joint years ago. Bought the truck to pull a 13k 5th wheel and wanted u-joints with zerks so I could grease them regularly. Didn't want to wonder if they were going to make the trip or not.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
Timken HB88107A
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
If so, have you seen P1832 or P1876 IIRC or one in that range?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
It's been nearly ten years since I did that job. No recollection of the part number. Sorry.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
I always try and get a Dana Spicer part first. If I'm in a pinch and can't get one in time Timken is a close second.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
Copy that, I will see what I can find in a spicer.
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Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
So I did the experiment today and locked the hubs but left it in 2WD. It sounds a little less noisy than normal but when I'm driving from around 30 to 35mph and left off and coast I will get that vibration and the sound. Well I did that today and it's still there but it was a little less.
Does this mean my stub axles are the culprit? The stubs and the u-joints are the only thing I have not changed in the front end yet. It just rubs me the wrong way having to dump more money into the front end.
I'm still not sure if my carrier bearing is bad or not either. I would rather do that than tear into the front end again.
So what you all think, do I narrow it down to the stubs or the carrier bearing? I hate trying to diagnose this by changing out parts, and not knowing if it will fix the issue.
Does this mean my stub axles are the culprit? The stubs and the u-joints are the only thing I have not changed in the front end yet. It just rubs me the wrong way having to dump more money into the front end.
I'm still not sure if my carrier bearing is bad or not either. I would rather do that than tear into the front end again.
So what you all think, do I narrow it down to the stubs or the carrier bearing? I hate trying to diagnose this by changing out parts, and not knowing if it will fix the issue.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
Wow that part is pricey. So from the research I've done so far it looks like the Timken one is part # HB88107A. I did find a Spicer part which is 211359x. But I'm not sure if that is the right one. Can anyone help me verify that Spicer part #? I will keep looking.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
Yeah it is pricey I got all my parts at one time front steering ball joints seals rear u joints and carrier bearing since the truck is from NY and rust is harsh up there and it all looks to be the factory parts the Ford dealer loved me that day after 1500 buck and that was with my work discount as well.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
Yeah it is pricey I got all my parts at one time front steering ball joints seals rear u joints and carrier bearing since the truck is from NY and rust is harsh up there and it all looks to be the factory parts the Ford dealer loved me that day after 1500 buck and that was with my work discount as well.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
I have an 06 SD and am going down a similar road. I have a bad bearing song I can't locate. I've done inner stub bearings on d/s twice. (I thought I damaged it the first time, but no) The U joints them selves are a cake walk. I taught myself a new trick when I did them. PM me your # and I'll walk you thru it.
Like y'all, I don't want to have to afford a $500 hub. I get a bad shake when I hit a bump, But I know that's my bad steering stabilizer.
Give your stub axels a shake. It really does sound like a bad U joint.
I learned a trick on popping the axel out too. The pry bar on the knuckles didn't work for me. I popped mine out from the axel tube disrupting the dust seal. I bought new ones, but couldn't get them seated correctly. I took a 3/8" wooden dowel rod, cut it 12-15" long and in a circular method, tapped around the inner seal as that is what your trying to get loose. 3 or 4 minutes it came out.
Like y'all, I don't want to have to afford a $500 hub. I get a bad shake when I hit a bump, But I know that's my bad steering stabilizer.
Give your stub axels a shake. It really does sound like a bad U joint.
I learned a trick on popping the axel out too. The pry bar on the knuckles didn't work for me. I popped mine out from the axel tube disrupting the dust seal. I bought new ones, but couldn't get them seated correctly. I took a 3/8" wooden dowel rod, cut it 12-15" long and in a circular method, tapped around the inner seal as that is what your trying to get loose. 3 or 4 minutes it came out.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
I have an 06 SD and am going down a similar road. I have a bad bearing song I can't locate. I've done inner stub bearings on d/s twice. (I thought I damaged it the first time, but no) The U joints them selves are a cake walk. I taught myself a new trick when I did them. PM me your # and I'll walk you thru it.
Like y'all, I don't want to have to afford a $500 hub. I get a bad shake when I hit a bump, But I know that's my bad steering stabilizer.
Give your stub axels a shake. It really does sound like a bad U joint.
I learned a trick on popping the axel out too. The pry bar on the knuckles didn't work for me. I popped mine out from the axel tube disrupting the dust seal. I bought new ones, but couldn't get them seated correctly. I took a 3/8" wooden dowel rod, cut it 12-15" long and in a circular method, tapped around the inner seal as that is what your trying to get loose. 3 or 4 minutes it came out.
Like y'all, I don't want to have to afford a $500 hub. I get a bad shake when I hit a bump, But I know that's my bad steering stabilizer.
Give your stub axels a shake. It really does sound like a bad U joint.
I learned a trick on popping the axel out too. The pry bar on the knuckles didn't work for me. I popped mine out from the axel tube disrupting the dust seal. I bought new ones, but couldn't get them seated correctly. I took a 3/8" wooden dowel rod, cut it 12-15" long and in a circular method, tapped around the inner seal as that is what your trying to get loose. 3 or 4 minutes it came out.