Wheel bearing problems
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
Quoting Guzzle article:
"The bearing race on the hub axle will be damaged if the needle bearing were to run dry and would require replacement of the outer shaft.
99% of the Ford dealers will tell you that only the complete axle shaft and u-joint is available and will run about $500 per side. There is actually a Ford replacement outer shaft (4C3Z-3B387-AA} and it will run around $120 plus the cost of new needle bearing, inner and outer grease and dust seals for about $250 per side."
Link to best OEM price I can find:
http://parts.autonationfordwhitebear...ord/4c3z3b387a
Much better price here non-OE:
http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/sea...&Search=Search
"The bearing race on the hub axle will be damaged if the needle bearing were to run dry and would require replacement of the outer shaft.
99% of the Ford dealers will tell you that only the complete axle shaft and u-joint is available and will run about $500 per side. There is actually a Ford replacement outer shaft (4C3Z-3B387-AA} and it will run around $120 plus the cost of new needle bearing, inner and outer grease and dust seals for about $250 per side."
Link to best OEM price I can find:
http://parts.autonationfordwhitebear...ord/4c3z3b387a
Much better price here non-OE:
http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/sea...&Search=Search
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370970442208?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151231711336?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/360886789949?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151231711336?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350829023480?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360886789949?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
I used Detroit axle bearings on my truck cause they cost less and I think it would have held up if I didn't have the problem I'm having now. They also have the option of buying two as a package deal and it cost the same amount as one of the cheaper ones from the local parts store. That might be the route I go when I buy mine just so I have an extra on hand since my passenger one i do believe is a Spicer one that I got from carquest and if it wasn't for my company discount it would have cost me in the 300 range
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
No I had a really really bad vibration between 30-45 and after I did all the work it went away and a day later it was back but faint and that evening I was half way home from work and there it was back in full force again. The reason I replaced it was when I pulled the old one the bearing in the back all the small needle bearings fell out of it. I did apply a generous amount of grease to it before I installed it as well.
All I know is I'm tired of replacing parts on the front end of this truck. It seems like that's all I do. It's starting to be a money pit and quite frankly I'm done doing that. I miss the days of not having to worry about that sort of thing.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
I just replaced both front wheel bearings, stub axles, u-joints, axle seals, all at once for the exact same symptom. Felt like a driveshaft was out of balance except the frequency of the vibration doesn't follow vehicle speed up and down. Been two weeks now and so far so good. Fingers crossed.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,465
Likes: 17
From: Jacksonville, FL
Originally Posted by THEDON117
So how bad was it replacing the stub axles? I have done so many wheel hub assemblies I can do it with my eyes closed. So, I've been close to that stub, how much of a pain in the ars is it to pull those things? Do you or anyone have a step by step on removing/replacing those?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
Really not that hard, you have already done the hard part getting the hub assemblies off. I just used a pry bar between the u-joint and knuckle and they pop right out. You will need to replace the knuckle seal (if you are changing the stub axle out), there are plenty of write ups on a hone made seal driver. Replace the stub and/or u-joints and they (axle) then slot back in and I use the hub assembly to seat the seal in the knuckle as I am tightening them back down
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
The axles pop right out with a pry bar. Nothing holding them in but the tension of the seal. The hard part is replacing the u-joints, the caps get very rusty. I used a ball joint press to do the heavy lifting.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
I'm really hoping I don't have to change out the stub hubs. Tomorrow when I go to work I'm going to lock the hubs and see if the vibration goes away. I think I would rather change the carrier bearing instead of doing more work in the front end. I just wish I had another FTE member around to see exactly what I'm talking about lol.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I'm really hoping I don't have to change out the stub hubs. Tomorrow when I go to work I'm going to lock the hubs and see if the vibration goes away. I think I would rather change the carrier bearing instead of doing more work in the front end. I just wish I had another FTE member around to see exactly what I'm talking about lol.
The way that it felt on my truck was very much like driveline vibration except that the frequency of the vibration didn't follow vehicle speed up and down, so I knew that I had to look elsewhere for the source of the problem. Lifting the truck so the wheels dangled and then spinning, prying back and forth didn't reveal anything. Had to drive it and hit potholes, grooves in the pavement, irregularities in the road surface and the vibration would turn on and off like a switch.
Drove me nuts.
I never could put my finger on it while the truck was off the floor in the shop.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Rolla, MO
I went so far as to remove the rear drive shaft and then drive around on the front axle. Funny part about that experiment is that by doing so, all the vibration was eliminated and so by going on that result, I was really wondering what the issue was. Driving around on the front axle, never once produced any of the vibration that was experiencing before. The only reason that I did the front bearing, axles, etc. was I discovered that the stub axle bearing were toast due to age and exposure to the elements.
The way that it felt on my truck was very much like driveline vibration except that the frequency of the vibration didn't follow vehicle speed up and down, so I knew that I had to look elsewhere for the source of the problem. Lifting the truck so the wheels dangled and then spinning, prying back and forth didn't reveal anything. Had to drive it and hit potholes, grooves in the pavement, irregularities in the road surface and the vibration would turn on and off like a switch.
Drove me nuts.
I never could put my finger on it while the truck was off the floor in the shop.
The way that it felt on my truck was very much like driveline vibration except that the frequency of the vibration didn't follow vehicle speed up and down, so I knew that I had to look elsewhere for the source of the problem. Lifting the truck so the wheels dangled and then spinning, prying back and forth didn't reveal anything. Had to drive it and hit potholes, grooves in the pavement, irregularities in the road surface and the vibration would turn on and off like a switch.
Drove me nuts.
I never could put my finger on it while the truck was off the floor in the shop.