2001 E150 starter fuse/ignition problem
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2001 E150 starter fuse/ignition problem
Hello, I have a 2001 E150 that will not start i replaced the solenoid on the starter and it still wont start when i turn the key! when i get a screw driver and make contact on the solenoid terminals it will start the engine. i was thinking i will try the fuses next but i checked the manual and it does not tell me which fuse is for the starter any help would be much appreciated
engine 4.2 V6 308k miles
tranny (i think) 4R70W
PS when i turn the key the radio and lights and everything in the cab works
thanks!
engine 4.2 V6 308k miles
tranny (i think) 4R70W
PS when i turn the key the radio and lights and everything in the cab works
thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 906
Likes: 1
Hello, I have a 2001 E150 that will not start i replaced the solenoid on the starter and it still wont start when i turn the key! when i get a screw driver and make contact on the solenoid terminals it will start the engine. i was thinking i will try the fuses next but i checked the manual and it does not tell me which fuse is for the starter any help would be much appreciated
engine 4.2 V6 308k miles
tranny (i think) 4R70W
PS when i turn the key the radio and lights and everything in the cab works
thanks!
engine 4.2 V6 308k miles
tranny (i think) 4R70W
PS when i turn the key the radio and lights and everything in the cab works
thanks!
jim
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
This could be the column-mounted slider switch, the one actuated by the key cylinder.
It could also be a broken connection from that switch to the solenoid, that lost connection not allowing current to the trigger side. Jumping the battery connection to the starter lead shows that side of the circuit is working.
It could also be a broken connection from that switch to the solenoid, that lost connection not allowing current to the trigger side. Jumping the battery connection to the starter lead shows that side of the circuit is working.
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This could be the column-mounted slider switch, the one actuated by the key cylinder.
It could also be a broken connection from that switch to the solenoid, that lost connection not allowing current to the trigger side. Jumping the battery connection to the starter lead shows that side of the circuit is working.
It could also be a broken connection from that switch to the solenoid, that lost connection not allowing current to the trigger side. Jumping the battery connection to the starter lead shows that side of the circuit is working.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
The no engaging of the solenoid via the start position of the key cylinder says something between the switch and the contact terminal at the solenoid is amiss. Checking for +12 at that wire on the solenoid while someone holds the key in the start position will tell if that particular circuit is working as designed.
If +12 is present then its most likely the solenoid.
Do be advised using a generic or wil-fit solenoid can be a bit problematic at the terminal location may be different from factory stock. There is a formed two terminal connector part of the wiring harness that wants an original or similarly configured solenoid for a simple swap. Using a cheaper part not specifically called for but "compatible" may lead to more cobbling or adapting than is necessary.
HTH
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
1. Check for power on the small terminal of the starter relay in START. If good, replace the relay. If no power, go to step #2.
2. Go check fuse F34 in the under dash fuse box. If not blown, check for power (at the fuse's test points) when the ignition switch is turned to START. This effectively splits the circuit in half an tells you whether to focus on the ignition switch or the DTR switch.
Report results.
2. Go check fuse F34 in the under dash fuse box. If not blown, check for power (at the fuse's test points) when the ignition switch is turned to START. This effectively splits the circuit in half an tells you whether to focus on the ignition switch or the DTR switch.
Report results.
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Turns out it was the fuse, i feel very stupid for not checking that in the first place live and learn i guess, but atleast the van got some new parts!
Thank you all for your help
Thank you all for your help
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Im guessing it would be best to go through the wiring for that fuse and look for tears in the insulation and other things that would cause it to short out?
I drove it around and started it a few times after replacing the fuse and nothing has happen yet, everything electrical seems to be in working order.
I drove it around and started it a few times after replacing the fuse and nothing has happen yet, everything electrical seems to be in working order.
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I have a 99 ford e150 econoline cargo van. It ran fine until it ran out of gas. It hasn't started since. I replaced the fuel filter to find out that you can't just replace the filter you need to replace the fuel pump in the gas tank too. It still doesn't start. I get power to the cab but that is it. It used to crank but not turn over. Now it doesn't even do that. Any suggestions
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