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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 08:47 PM
  #16  
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Post 294, some bed time reading:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...inally-20.html
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 07:03 PM
  #17  
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Well thanks for the help,looks like I am in the market for another motor
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 07:46 PM
  #18  
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compression not good?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 08:54 PM
  #19  
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Not entirely sure. I have to braze an adapter together for my compression gauge to make it official.when I pull a glow plug and crank it over I can hear compression but it sounds low.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2015 | 03:22 PM
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Anyone got a short or long block or an entire engine for sale?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2015 | 08:32 PM
  #21  
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What was the compression numbers ?

Low compression can be caused from bent valve and broken valve springs which can happen with the use of starting fluid.

Look over the springs real good then pull the push rods and lay a straight edge across the valve and see if any sit lower than the others. It's a long shot but I'd check al possibilities before I'd start looking for a engine. If I was at that point I'd do a rebuild that way you know what you have. A used engine is like play roulette.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2015 | 08:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by therigwelder
Not entirely sure. I have to braze an adapter together for my compression gauge to make it official.when I pull a glow plug and crank it over I can hear compression but it sounds low.
Whatever you use for an adapter has to have a very small hole through it. I tried using a 6" long piece of 1/8" brass pipe, but the hole through the pipe was too big......too much volume. Made one with a grease hose like most on here have. there was a 100 psi loss with the brass pipe vs the grease hose.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 05:32 PM
  #23  
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the compressions were between 140-150 psi. I made an adapter for my pressure gauge out of an old glow plug and a 12" piece of 3/16 brake tube so I don't know how accurate it is
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 08:55 PM
  #24  
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That is pretty low, but with the experience I had with my homemade adapter, I would wonder how much of those low numbers you could contribute to you adapter. I ordered a brass fitting that was male M10 to female 1/8" pipe. I bought the shortest grease whip I could find at the auto parts store and screwed it into the female end of the fitting. I put an 1/8" brass pipe coupling on the other end of the grease whip, then screwed the quick connect fitting from my compression test kit into the coupling. That seems to work really well because the hole in the grease whip is very small. Smaller than 3/16" I believe. I would try to make up one like this before I would be satisfied with those numbers.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2015 | 10:46 PM
  #25  
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I have 295k on the motor and has a repaired hole in the block and I've been driving it a few years.obviously I won't rebuild this block.what puzzles me how when it was running it didn't smoke ,ran like a champ. I am stuck on the idea the cylinder walls got washed out using SF thereby losing compression,I know in gas engines I've had the oil on the cylinder walls filled in scratches and hatch patterns and contribute to the sealing of the cylinder.
I have an idea of liberaly spraying Wd-40 into the glow plug holes then spin the motor over getting the cylinder wall lubricated(wet test). I think if I can get compression over 200 I might be able to get it to fire.
Also when I pulled the glow plugs they were coated with a lot of oil. Is this oil coming from around the top of the glow plugs? I don't believe there should be oil down around where the hot end of the glow plugs seats ?
 
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