When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sorry, 35x12.5x20. RBP rims. The shaking is same motion as a teeter totter but short and quick (not sure if that helps). It seems to me it is very similar as what i see in the death wobble videos but obviously not as violent because it is at lower speeds. I have new shocks with the lift and a carrier bearing shim is to be installed as well. I am just trying to get some tips before i dismantle the truck if there is anything else i should be looking for. The odd thing is i have not experienced it at highway speeds. At highway speeds i have a slight vibration.
This helps a lot! It is the same thing that I experienced with a new set of tires on my 06 super duty with 275/70r18's (only 1" shorter than your 35").
With the new tires my truck started vibrating at 45mph and would settle down to a shimmy above 60mph in the back end, multiple times rebalancing didn't fix it so I tried rotating the tires front to back and the shake moved to the front with steering vibrations, so I jacked the front of the truck up and spun the tires buy hand and lo and behold there was a hump in one of the tires/not round. Even after having the tires balanced several times by shop workers the shop owner looked at the tire on the truck without spinning it He verified it was not good and replaced it with no cost to me.
I had a similar problem on my truck, and it ended up being a cobination of alignment, tire pressure, and a worn out wheel hub. Once these were fixed it drove nicely.
I appreciate all the helpful tips in this thread!!! TwigsV10, it sounds like the exact same scenario that you had. This weekend i am going to inspect the entire steering system and I am taking it to check the wheel balance next week so i will have him inspect them all as well. I will update after that happens and then go from there. Im hoping it is something as simple as unbalanced tire(s) but normally i am not that lucky .
When you replace your ball joints and tie rod ends. Get them from ProForged.com Amazon has them too. They are Chromoly and have a One Million mile Guarantee. and they cost the same as the crappy ones you get from auto zone. I put these on my F550 4x4 19ft flatbed Tow Truck 2 months ago.
Ok-the tires were unbalanced and got that fixed but it still happens. I just put my lift on so i need an alignment. Lets hope that helps. If not, i will be replacing tie rods and go from there.
I have to comment on this, to the one that stated a mud tire was to be run at slower speeds.
I run mud tires, in fact the actual name is "MUD CLAW" made by Cooper.
They are a DOT approved extreme traction tire.
My work involves a multitude of travel conditions, from paved to goat trails.
My travel speeds can vary from 75 on a deficient hiway, to 1 or 2 mph on the goat trails.
I have never had an issue with these MUD tires on my trucks.
At the present time , my 99 scsb 4x4, has 35/12.50/16 , 60k miles in the last 2 years.
94 Ranger , 32/10.50/15 , 10 years and documented 568k miles.
This is not the day of biased ply tires.
Tires are designed for today's speeds, and extreme off road conditions .
As I have read through these "death wobble" threads, the most overlooked cause has been track bar.
I believe you need to actually remove the bar, to see the worn or soft bushings used from the factory.
Sorry, I would look no further than the tires. The larger the tire, the harder it is to balance, and keep balanced. You ran these tires unbalanced? Or did the tire shop "balance" them when they mounted them? As in, they claimed they were balanced (but weren't), and now they claim they are balanced (as in "fixed" now)?
You need a competent tire shop with a road force balance machine to properly balance those tires. And then you will need to rotate and rebalance them frequently.
Don't think it's tires? Find someone with a set of stock wheels and tires to swap on for a bit of a test drive. That will "find" the problem.
AKA, it's the tires. 35's are a pain in the *** to balance and keep that way.
Are your aftermarket rims lug centric or hub centric? Did you use the stock lug nuts?
This is actually a very good question that hasn't been answered, unless I missed it like I did with this question.
Super duty trucks use the large center hole of the wheel to aligning the wheel on the hub, many aftermarket wheels require tapered Lugnuts to center the wheel to the hub and if the original castle style Lugnuts are used shaking problems are very common as well as wheels falling off the truck. It's amazing how many tire shops are not aware of this!!!!
This is actually a very good question that hasn't been answered, unless I missed it like I did with this question.
Super duty trucks use the large center hole of the wheel to aligning the wheel on the hub, many aftermarket wheels require tapered Lugnuts to center the wheel to the hub and if the original castle style Lugnuts are used shaking problems are very common as well as wheels falling off the truck. It's amazing how many tire shops are not aware of this!!!!
I must of missed this as well. To be honest, i am not sure. I did get aftermarket splines with these wheels instead of reusing the old lugs. Currently we are having an ice storm so checking is not an option at the moment. I will get back to you and post. I tried looking on RBP's web page but no luck there. The tire shop i am working with has his own modified for SEMA Show 2013 F350 w/ 6inch lift, 37 inch tires, RC light bars, LED light conversions, etc... I am not saying that makes him the authority on the topic, i would just think/hope he knows what he is doing.
It is crazy, right at 50 it starts and 45 and 55 its gone.