Checking in
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Checking in
Good evening everyone. Checking in from Maryland. In the process of fixing my truck and waiting for parts. I wish I would have came across this place sooner.
I've been having a hard start/no-hot-start problem just recently. I've owned it a little over 2 years. Talking to a few buddies I have learned a lot and bought a bunch of parts I may or may not need ��
So far I have my truck broke down to the intake manifold. I'm after the hpop sct fitting. I bought a blue spring kit, degas cap, sct fitting kit, and stand tubes and dummy plugs.
I've been reading the TechFolder for 2 days straight. Hopefully I can get this beast back on the road in a timely fashion. It's been fairly easy to take apart this far
I've been having a hard start/no-hot-start problem just recently. I've owned it a little over 2 years. Talking to a few buddies I have learned a lot and bought a bunch of parts I may or may not need ��
So far I have my truck broke down to the intake manifold. I'm after the hpop sct fitting. I bought a blue spring kit, degas cap, sct fitting kit, and stand tubes and dummy plugs.
I've been reading the TechFolder for 2 days straight. Hopefully I can get this beast back on the road in a timely fashion. It's been fairly easy to take apart this far
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
Charge the batteries while the truck is apart, and if they're more than two or three years old don't feel bad about needing new ones when it's back together and running. If you have the STC fitting and oil rails out, it'll take time to turn over so do it in cycles, don't murder the batteries to nothing, and don't burn up the starter. It'll feel like buck fever wanting to crank it until it catches, but force yourself to do it right. Don't screw it up by rushing the last step.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Ohio
Profile says 2006 
so the snap to connect would be a given or a good upgrade. One thing to remember Yellow, do not throw parts at this engine and Welcome to FTE.
so the snap to connect would be a given or a good upgrade. One thing to remember Yellow, do not throw parts at this engine and Welcome to FTE.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Charge the batteries while the truck is apart, and if they're more than two or three years old don't feel bad about needing new ones when it's back together and running. If you have the STC fitting and oil rails out, it'll take time to turn over so do it in cycles, don't murder the batteries to nothing, and don't burn up the starter. It'll feel like buck fever wanting to crank it until it catches, but force yourself to do it right. Don't screw it up by rushing the last step.
I'm hoping I can get away with just doing the STC fitting for now. I need to get it back together to go to a funeral on Friday
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It looks like the intake manifold HAS to come out so I can get to the last 3 bolts in the HPOP cover? I was surprised to see that my IPR screen looked brand new. I was hoping to do an EGR delete, oil cooler, and coolant filter but money is a little tight because of the holidays 
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Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
Start the first video around 3:30 mins, wrench under the EGR cooler is at 4:45. Using extension to lift cover at 5:10
1 of 2
2 of 2
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No, all the ICP pressure will bleed off through the IPR immediately after shut down. Nothing stays under pressure in the HPO system.
Loosen the EGR cooler to up-pipe clamp and push it back on to the up-pipe, then use a wrench on the three bolts under the EGR cooler. Leave those bolts in the cover, and use a 3-6" 1/2" drive extension in through the hole in the cover for the turbo drain to pop the cover straight up to loosen, then slide out at an angle towards the driver's side.
Start the first video around 3:30 mins, wrench under the EGR cooler is at 4:45. Using extension to lift cover at 5:10
1 of 2
6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke - High Pressure Oil Pump & Revised STC Fitting Part 1 - YouTube
2 of 2
6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke - High Pressure Oil Pump & STC Fitting Part 2 - YouTube
Loosen the EGR cooler to up-pipe clamp and push it back on to the up-pipe, then use a wrench on the three bolts under the EGR cooler. Leave those bolts in the cover, and use a 3-6" 1/2" drive extension in through the hole in the cover for the turbo drain to pop the cover straight up to loosen, then slide out at an angle towards the driver's side.
Start the first video around 3:30 mins, wrench under the EGR cooler is at 4:45. Using extension to lift cover at 5:10
1 of 2
6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke - High Pressure Oil Pump & Revised STC Fitting Part 1 - YouTube
2 of 2
6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke - High Pressure Oil Pump & STC Fitting Part 2 - YouTube
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
Oh yeah, the super-awesome little 8mm bolts through the heat shield into the back of the cover. If the hump on the cover for the passenger side bolt happened to bump into a belt sander and disappear before it went back in, no big loss. I only have the driver's side one in, I got it through the hole in the heat shield with a 1/4" finger tip ratchet.
https://store.snapon.com/Round-Head-...t-P754722.aspx
When you reinstall, use Grey RTV on the seams between the block and rear cover. Apparently Permatex Ultra Black is the same as Ford's special grey stuff. I bought a tube of the grey stuff and have no issues and no leaks.
https://store.snapon.com/Round-Head-...t-P754722.aspx
When you reinstall, use Grey RTV on the seams between the block and rear cover. Apparently Permatex Ultra Black is the same as Ford's special grey stuff. I bought a tube of the grey stuff and have no issues and no leaks.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2015
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Oh yeah, the super-awesome little 8mm bolts through the heat shield into the back of the cover. If the hump on the cover for the passenger side bolt happened to bump into a belt sander and disappear before it went back in, no big loss. I only have the driver's side one in, I got it through the hole in the heat shield with a 1/4" finger tip ratchet.
https://store.snapon.com/Round-Head-...t-P754722.aspx
When you reinstall, use Grey RTV on the seams between the block and rear cover. Apparently Permatex Ultra Black is the same as Ford's special grey stuff. I bought a tube of the grey stuff and have no issues and no leaks.
https://store.snapon.com/Round-Head-...t-P754722.aspx
When you reinstall, use Grey RTV on the seams between the block and rear cover. Apparently Permatex Ultra Black is the same as Ford's special grey stuff. I bought a tube of the grey stuff and have no issues and no leaks.
I decided to pull the trigger and I ordered an egr delete, oil cooler, intake gaskets, and turbo bolt and o ring kit. It rained all day today so I didn't get anything done but I have the day off work tomorrow so hopefully everything will start going back together soon.
Thanks for everyone's help so far. I'm just a dumb overhead door guy so this is all new to me
