Some help please,
I must replace the clutch in 69 F100 - 360 - 3 spd (used to be on column).

I found a thread from 6-2002 that suggested Centerforce clutch and double friction pressure plate and throwout bearing---

I have never done this - Is there a complete set of instructions available somewhere?

How many hours/days should I expect?
Difficulty level for a mechanically inclined engineer?

Two things I have heard repeatedly are resurface flywheel and buy alignment tool. Any other MUST Do's for a happy ending.

Thanks in advance,
Richard and son

 

Always replace your pilot bushing while you're at it. It's where the nose of the shaft on your transmission fits in. They get ignored a lot, but they get worn just like everything else. Also although the three speed is fairly easily handled, a floor jack makes things much easier. Even without much experience it should only take an easy day or less to do a clutch. Trouble is you have to wait for the machine work. Gives you time to clean everything while it's apart.

 

Do these trucks have a pivot ball for the release arm in the bell housing? If so, it would be a likely replacement.

It would be a good time to replace transmission mounts and shifter bushings as well.

 

Thanks for the hints.

Are there any points of wear and or breakage that the experienced mechanic would look for while having the clutch / transmission removed.

Do you know of detailed how-to instructions.

Richard

 

All good advice.

If you want pictures I would suggest maybe a Chilton book or something as such. It usually gives you pics of a job in process to show you what you will be doing.

Yes, replace the bushing in crank, cheap and if it has lots of miles it will be due. They make pullers for this(rent at your local A-Zone). I have some old taps laying around and I just start on into the bushing and use an impact to thread it thru the bushing and it pulls it right out.

As for clutches, it all depends on what you plan on doing with truck. Centerforce is a good upgrade, pricey, but good. I run one in my 69. If it is just a run around truck a plain rebuilt one will suffice also.

The pivot on the bellhousing should not need anything. It is quite a stout piece. The clutch fork needs inspecting. Check for cracks around the pivot area. I have had them crack and literally break in half. Of course I ran a stiff clutch at the time.

Well re-installing everything, put some grease on tranny snout to help throwout move easily, then put some grease on pilot to help lube it also. Speaking of throwout, definitely replace it also.

Check tranny mount also. Most times it is okay, but better to replace now.

Have flywheel turned, do not just put a new clutch on old surface, especially if it is burnt in places. Cheap insurance that new clutch will seat in and work smooth.

As for taking apart, it will take just a few tools. Luckily these trucks can be taken apart with just about 1/2 doz. tools

I think most clutches come with some good instructions and pointers on how to re-assembly and things to look for.

Larry

 

Thanks to all so far. I am at least beginning to be encouraged.

 

There's really no need for too many instructions, it's pretty straightforward. The only thing I can think of is this. While bolting on the pressure plate, go back and forth in a "star" pattern a little at a time on each bolt (like maybe 2 or 3 full turns) until they are all down and then tighten/torque them, still using a "star" pattern.

One of the best reasons to clean everything is that you will spot loose, worn or broken parts while doing it.

One more little hint. When you are just ready to pull the transmission out and down to the floor, grab the driveshaft off the floor and plug it back on the tailshaft (the back end can just be on the floor). Pull it back out when you're down on the ground and under total control again. This will prevent gear oil from coming out while you have the transmission tipped. Gear oil stinks. You don't want it on you or your floor or your jack or your tools or anywhere else.

 

Oh yeah one more thing. To get the pilot bushing out, pack the hole in the bushing and the void behind with grease. Find something that fits the hole pretty well (piece of dowel or whatever, it's not important, just has to fit good), poke it in and hit it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure on the grease will push the bushing out. I promise.

 

Instead of buying a removal tool, I use a neat little trick to remove the pilot bushing. Get a nice long bolt that is just the size of the pilot bushing hole. You should be able to push it in and out of the bushing. Get some wheel bearing grease and pack it right into the bushing. Don't worry about making a mess as you're going to clean it all up anyhow. Now put the threaded end of your bolt into to pilot bushing and give it a whack with a hammer. Like magic, that bushing slides right back onto your bolt and you can whip it right out of there. Hydraulic pressure at work! Good luck.
jor

 

Use a diaphram type clutch not the old 3 lever type. It is much smoother and easier to push in.

Inspect the pivot on the bellhousing that the fork pivots on. If it is loose at all, drill out the rivets and replace with allenhead bolts.

 

thanks for more info

ANOTHER Question???

Should I replace rear main seal?

One mechanic said it was rope seal and do not attempt unless pouring oil

Parts house said they had a rubber replacement and it was NO PROBLEM once old one was dug out.

Any Suggestions??


The parts house is selling me a Sachs clutch which is supposed to be a diaphraghm type.

Richard

 

Rubber or rope, either way if it's leaking AT ALL, then FIX IT. Now is the time to do it as the seal will be right in front of you and they are cheap. I'd even say if you are not sure of it's age or condition (is it OK right now but not for long?) then replace it anyway. Does that mechanic think it's going to get better by itself later on? No, it can only get worse. And the next thing you'll be doing is repeating the whole job instead of driving around for a good long time. If you don't plan on keeping the truck very long and the seal is OK now you decide.

 

the mechanic said that replacing the rope/fiber seal was very difficult and that it was near impossible to position the new one to keep it from leaking. He didn't mention using a new rubber replacement . He hasn't worked on the old trucks in a while.

How tough is the seal replacement??

 

I have never had a rear seal leak. I once saw a new engine started and the seal leaked bad for 5 min. then stopped. If the old one is not leaking, I would leave it alone.

 

If you are replacing the rope seal witha rubber seal it isnt hard. As for replacing the clutch it isnt hard, I changed my first one at 16. My biggest peice of advice is clean the tranny and bellhousing off as best you can before dissasembling. A good engine degreaser and hot water under pressure makes the job easy. I say this cause mine was greasy when i took it off and I dropped the tranny on myself, ouch. Good luck