thanks,

I couldn't get the transmission mount off the cross member to drop it . The bracket for floor shift conversion was hitting the floor pan and I couldn't get any wrench in to remove the bolts holding the mount to the transmission.
Sooo, I started on plan B then ended up taking the shifter bracket off when I noticed that was the problem.

The back of the engine is slightly oily gritty behind the flywheel so now I must decide about the main rear seal..???

Richard

 

I helped my Dad try to remove a rope seal with one of these tools on a 360. I don't remember who made the tool, but it was called a "sneaky pete".

 

It is common on a old engine to have some oil in the back of the block. Any oil leaking from the top could get between the bellhousing and the block.

 

Thanks to all,

We are ready for the re-install.
Though there was some oil/oily residue on the block behind the flywheel, the pan below the bell housing was completely dry and there were not any apparent oil runs from the seal at crank so just cleaned it up and will not replace the rear seal.

The grease/hydraulic pilot bearing removal was a big flop. I could get it to move about 1/16 inch even after adjustment and using a piece of bike tube to ensure snug fit. Finally sent my son to Auto Zone for a loaner slide hammer & pilot tool - 8:58pm. Two slams and it was out.

Reinstall seems straightforward. Will let you know.

May try the oil pan seal after transmission is reinstalled.

Richard

 

working on Reinstall- help please 69-F100-360-3spd

The lever for the clutch throw out bearing has a small hole in each of the edges aligned with the indention that pivots on the bell housing. Looks like for a pin or a cotter key or such. I did not take anything out of those holes.

?? Does that arm just press freely on the pivot bracket at the bellhousing held in only by the bearing and the pressure of the adjusting nut.?? Seems a little flimsy to me!?

Thanks,

Richard

 

The 72 repair manual does not show any type of retainer.

I'd call a Dealer and see if he can check the parts diagram though.

 

thanks for looking up the throwout lever in the manual.

i may go by the Ford dealer and ask them but haven't gotten much assistance from them on the phone before.

If anyone else has dealt with it please let me know.

Richard

 

The early throwout arms where held in place by a wire clip that hooked onto the tab on the back of the pivot. The newer design uses a spring clip thru a slot in the pivot. If you throwout has a 1/8" hole in the top/bottom near the pivot, then it originally used the wire clip. You can make one from a coathanger or such, or just leave it go(it was like that when you started). It basically keeps the fork in place when assembling. Once tranny is in, it will stay on pivot.

The newer desing had a spring tab pop riveted to the back of the arm that clipped into a slot in the pivot. You really cant mix and match because both pivots are different and you cant easily modify to use the difference style.

I would not worry about it. My one truck is just floating in there like that also because I could not come up with matching pieces.

It will just take a few more hands to keep things together until you get the tranny in there. (I have tried adjusting the clutch freeplay up till the throwout is touching the pressure plate, that way it holds everything in line until you get tranny pushed in. Once bearing is on front shaft, it will pretty much stay inline.)

Since it came apart this way, it appears that someone must have been in there before.

Larry

 

thanks,

I think the tighten up adjuster to hold the throwout fork against the pressure plate will be the first try. I don't want a broken hanger piece rattling around in there later.

There are about 1/8" holes at top and bottom.

Someone may have been in there earlier but this clutch plate was down to the rivets.

I am off to try it now.

Richard

 

ok folks,Im trying to get the 69 f100- 360it back together.
One of the pressure plate bolts snapped off at 31 pounds on its way to the 35 I was told was spec.

Replaced it just before auto parts place closed at 5:30.

Now I CAN NOT get the transmission IN. Can't get past the throw-out bearing. Even after adjusting the adjuster screw for the lever til the bearing is snug against the fingers-
The transmission shaft keeps hitting the bearing or it moves or something. I can't even get lined up to see if the splines will align.
I did use the alignment tool when putting the clutch palate on until the bell housing was snug.

We tried the extra long bolt as pins etc, but still couldn't get it in.

ANY HELP or Suggestions???

After the hydraulic bushing removal didn't work and the pins won't allow the transmission to go in, my son is talking bad about us old guys!!

Richard

 

Install it with the bellhousing attatched to the tranny, not the engine. That way the release bearing stays snug on the input shaft.

 

You didn't push the clutch pedal down and allow the disc to fall did you? If so You will need to realign with the pilot tool. I always check the disc on the trans shaft to make sure I have the right one and just to make sure it slides smoothly. I have had to use a file and clean up the splines. Also it helps to bevel the edges of the splines just slightly with a file to aid in a smooth stab.

 

thanks,
I can't get past the throw-out bearing to try the spline stab. The clutch alignment tool shows that the disc is still in place.

I took the bearing off and made sure that it fit the shaft.

When I snugged it down against the pressure plate fingers I see that it puts it out-of-square just a little with the back of the bell housing. Appears that there is enough of a "snout" on the transmission to ease it up there with a better jack leave the throwout arm loose and just get my fingers in there to slide the bearing on the shaft.

I will check for horizontal alignment of the back of the bell housing with the tranny. It was suggested that the back of my engine may have dropped down and be pointing down too much compared with the transmission.

Will take more ideas!!

Richard

 

I always measure the space between the tranny and bell housing at several points to help assure that you are going in square. Some people have better luck with the bell housing bolted to the transmission, but I always bolted it to the engine. It seems less bulky and you don't have to fight with clearance between the bell housing and body. You do how ever have to get the input housing through the t/o bearing which is where you seem to be having a problem. I also have a 2" telescoping mirror that I can look up in there to see what the problem is and also to just make sure the input is exactly in line. I have had good luck with these tricks. Once I was stabbing a 13 speed roadranger which probably weighs 800# easy. I was doing it in a gravel pit with my jack on a sheet of 3/4 plywood. I had everything all measured out and had the shaft lined up and the splines lined up. My boss who had been a mechanic for 40 years came over and ask if I needed help. I said "no it should go right in". He said "I have been doing this for 40 years and I never had one go right in". I gave that tranny a little push and stabbed it to the hilt, smooth as butter. They don't always go that smooth but it isn't uncommon if you take a little time to make sure you are all squared up. Spend a few bucks on a mirror if you don't have one. They are invaluable.

 

Hurray!!!

Thanks to all for the help and the suggestions.

I cut a 6" long piece of 2X5 tubular aluminum, scrap we happened to have at work,- cut the top off to make wide channel drilled a center hole then removed the pivot cup from my floor jack and bolted the channel on with 1/2" bolt. Took two short 6X6 timbers and put 2X6 lumber on top for a platform and put the jack on that and then strapped the transmission to the channel. Nice steady- don't have to hold anything- setup. ( my new 3 ton craftsman jack is much heavier and more stable than the old red 2 ton- hey it was on sale with jack stands)

Eased the nose of the transmission into the bellhousing just enough to get the larger shaft housing inside. Then, with the bellhousing pan removed and pivot arm completely loose I was able to reach up from the bottom and easily wiggle the throw-out bearing onto the shaft. Once that was on, just one little push and the transmission was in. I actually went to the back to push on it more and my son said to quit it couldn't go any more. Released the strap and a little twist of the transmission alligned the biolt holes.

Slipping on the bearing by reaching through the bottom was the key. Previously, with the throwout arm adjusted tight pushing the bearing against the fingers, holding it steady, the bearing was tilted just enough out of alignment to make the stab unbearable.

Would not have wanted to do this without the jack by lying underneath and benchpressing the transmission in as many have said they have done!!! Sure is nice to have blocks and timbers and lumber and jacks and a driveway BEHIND the garage. Wives and neighbors don't always like it but sure makes this work easier.

The new Sachs diapraghm clutch is sooooo much easier than the 3 finger truck clutch that my son thought it was broken or not connected right. The clutch starts to engage about 2 inches off the floor and is fully engaged within a couple of inches. Hey, I may even be able to teach my daughter to drive the truck now.

Thanks for all the help.
It was quite an experience- though my son says " Dad we could have taken it to a shop". Maybe someday it will show up in his "Lessons Learned"!

Richard