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Trouble shifting into 3rd

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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 12:56 PM
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Trouble shifting into 3rd

Hey guys so question for ya, took my truck out for a spin around the neigborhood and it started and shifted fine up until I tried to shift into 3rd. It seems occasional and maybe I just have to figure out the sweet spot for shifting but I was running about 3.5k rpms at the point of when I went to shift and ggrrrrrttt it grinded. Tried to again and it grinded again so by this point it was going too slow to shift into third so i went to shift into second but I had trouble getting into that also. It didn't grind it just wouldn't go into in. But as I slowed down it went in so I might have just not been going slow enough. But what's going? It doesn't always do this I have been able to shift before. So I doubt it's a clutch and maybe she's just acting up. Also I can't seem to find my transmission dipstick? It is a 4 speed.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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There is no dipstick on a manual transmission.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Gembone
There is no dipstick on a manual transmission.
Gah I shoulda known that. Oh well
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Gembone
There is no dipstick on a manual transmission.
All my vintage trucks have manual transmissions....The dipstick is usually connected to the shift ball.


To the OP, depressing the clutch all the way?


What about pulling the fill plug and feelin' inside for the lube level?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 02:41 PM
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From: Bismarck, ND
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
All my vintage trucks have manual transmissions....The dipstick is usually connected to the shift ball.


To the OP, depressing the clutch all the way?


What about pulling the fill plug and feelin' inside for the lube level?
Clutch is definitely depressed all the way. I'm thinking I'm just not shifting right and or some how accidentally trying to go into Reverse cause I'm a aggressive shifter.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
All my vintage trucks have manual transmissions....The dipstick is usually connected to the shift ball.


To the OP, depressing the clutch all the way?


What about pulling the fill plug and feelin' inside for the lube level?


Bwaaa Haaaa!!!!!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 05:22 PM
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Try shifting slower.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 09:36 PM
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shift problem

It may be the 3 rd gear sychronizer ring is either broken or just worn out. Try double clutching it into 3rd and see if that makes it easier. If you pull the top cover off you will see if the ring is broken. Those transmissions are not too hard to repair, just heavy.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 10:13 PM
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From: Bismarck, ND
Originally Posted by kenny nunez
It may be the 3 rd gear sychronizer ring is either broken or just worn out. Try double clutching it into 3rd and see if that makes it easier. If you pull the top cover off you will see if the ring is broken. Those transmissions are not too hard to repair, just heavy.
I actually do recall double clutching and i think it went in but i don't remember
 
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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mountain dewd
Try shifting slower.
I tried that after it grinded the first time.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 01:14 AM
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My reverse lockout spring is shot so I just shift slow and pause in neutral and it slides in.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 05:12 AM
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The physics of smooth shifting is to slide it in when the rpms match the speed. That is basically what "double clutching" does. When I drive those old trucks, I rarely use the clutch after I'm moving.

I agree on synchro but there is another issue I've had happen. The rivets in the clutch arm pivot (inside the bell housing) will stretch out and eventually break, leaving you with no pedal, or a clutch that won't release. First symptom is harder shifting.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 09:34 AM
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From: Bismarck, ND
Originally Posted by Djlink
My reverse lockout spring is shot so I just shift slow and pause in neutral and it slides in.
I feel like I have that issue. And willowbilly it's maybe cause I'm not letting the momentum catch up in the truck. Cause when I had attempted to double clutch (this was the second time it had grinded.) I had held it at around 3.5k for a bit longer
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
The physics of smooth shifting is to slide it in when the rpms match the speed. That is basically what "double clutching" does. When I drive those old trucks, I rarely use the clutch after I'm moving.

I agree on synchro but there is another issue I've had happen. The rivets in the clutch arm pivot (inside the bell housing) will stretch out and eventually break, leaving you with no pedal, or a clutch that won't release. First symptom is harder shifting.
2x possible pivot tab bracket rivets loosened.

Plus I've had troubles with the shift stick guide rivet pins have warn out the two sides of the guilds on the ball socket. This makes the shift stick very sloppy an lets it turn in the lower shift rail making it hard to shift with out grinding.

With my old np435 my guess is it's catching the other shift rail to move when pushing it against another gear. If, I was not thinking about following the H shift pattern it would snag the other gear the grinds.

I had the shift stick grooved guilds welded up then used a hand grinder & a few hand files to reshape it back to what it is suppose to be like. Then it worked great not more grinding. This was my fix.
My 02 cents.
Orich
 
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Old Dec 11, 2015 | 04:36 PM
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hard shifting

If it turns out that the rivets and or the pivot is the problem, the rivets can be replaced with some 1/4 " 28 counter sunk screws and lock nuts. some time the job can be done without having to pull the transmission or just back it out just enough to get to the rivets. Hopefully you will not have to pull the bell housing.
 
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