My odometer cable is squeaking a little at lower speeds. I need to pull it out and put some lithium grease on it. Can it be taken out from the transmission end? I don't want to pull the dash unless I have to.. It has cruse control so it goes through the speed sensor..
Thanks

 

Mine had a bushing on the speedo end, had to pull the instrument cluster. I think that is fairly common.
https://cfc7329ad537523a5de1-b21544d...7260b_6923.jpg

I found the squeak in mine was in the speedo itself, graphite dust fixed it.
jim

 

Thanks again Jim! I have been searching some and haven't found a good write-up on how to remove the instrument panel yet. In the mean time though I have to get the thermostat back together..
Maybe another question you might be able to answer.. I was going to change out the old heater hoses while I have everything out of the way but,,, I noticed instead of just heater hose clamps, there is some kind of fitting that locks on to the heater core.. They are factory hoses.. I looked on RA and saw a adapter that appears like you clamp the new hose on to it and then snap it to the heater core? I guess that is how that is done...
Thanks again

 

I saw those too! haha Mine looked like quick disconnect types. I had a rear heater/AC and the tees had them too. I didn't look for the replacement hoses with the special ends crimped on them, I got regular heater hose and clamps when I replaced them. This was the before photo.
jim



Heater hose connections - factory.

 

Oh, here's a photo of that, sorta. Once the screws are out, you can ALMOST get your hand behind the panel to unhook the plastic clips for the speedo and connector. The speedo pushes to one side then pull. The connector has clips on each end, push in to unhook from the circuit board.
(NOW is a good time to replace all the bulbs!) jim



Instrument cluster

 

Thanks Jim.. After looking at the heater hoses, that was the conclusion I came up with,, adapters and hose.. I just need the two at the heater core..

As to the dash removal.. I removed a spare from the junk yard. The first thing i removed though was the wiper/light switch panel.. I didnt know it had to be done that way though, i was just removing spare parts to bring home. I did have a heck of a time getting the speed-o cable loose too.. I know how to un snap it now..

 

This discussion on the speedo panel removal is appearing at the perfect time for me too! I have a faint squeaking too, and I have already attempted one removal but gave up. I figured the speedo cable was clipped in but the space to reach behind seemed impossible. Your discussion gives me some hope, and I will attack it again!

I will replace all instrument bulbs while I have it out too!

1988 E250 van conversion camper.

 

I am looking for a link i found the other day about unlocking the cable from the instrument cluster the, it had pics.. There is a tab you have to press on the plastic ring that holds the cable housing to the cluster.

Once it is loose the inner core should pull out of the housing.. Everything I have read says that it will be very dirty with old grease so make plans to use something to keep it from getting grease everywhere.. I remember my dad doing one a long time ago. He cleaned it first and then used white lithium grease on a rag as he slid the cable back in..

If i find the pics, I will post the link here..
Here is a video of unlocking a 70's cable from the instrument cluster.. Ours are similar.. if not the same

 

lets try this.. this is for my 85 e150
<a href="http://s472.photobucket.com/user/Annaleigh_123/media/speedo.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr88/Annaleigh_123/speedo.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo speedo.jpg"/></a>

 

I was reading in my manual for my 1985 e150 and for those of us with cruse control, there is a speed sensor.. I was reading about trouble shooting noise in the speed odometer cable. The info was very short but said check speed sensor and replace if necessary. So from what I gathered the speed sensor can make noise.. Again the instructions were very vague.
The pic below is for a 85 e150 and as mine is, shows the cable coming out of the fire wall, to the sensor, then on down to the transmission. I am assuming the cable core just runs straight through the sensor but the cable housing two separate pieces. One from the instrument cluster to the sensor and the other from the sensor to the transmission. Each cable bolts on to the speed sensor. It cautions not to over tighten them or it will ruin the sensor. So they should just be snugged on there.
What are the chances of, instead of removing the instrument cluster, rather loosen the upper cable from the speed sensor and pull the cable core out from the transmission side there. That would leave the cable core still in the short section from the sensor to the cluster. Perhaps one would be able to spray some good quality lithium up inside the upper housing with the remaining core. Then clean and grease the other end of the cable core as normal.. Since the cable bends coming out of the fire wall, maybe the squeaking is in that bend.. That would be allot easier then removing the instrument cluster..

i want to remove mine cluster and change the bulbs but not at this time.. But the cable running dry can cause it to fray and break..

 

I think this is a great idea. Anything beats pulling the cluster although the 2nd and 3rd time it does get easier. LOL. I am wondering it it would be possible to inject lube into the upper half cable while it is loose? Clamp a hose on it, prop it pointing up and put a few drops of oil in there. Could be the cable right at the connector is dry?
jim

 

I glanced at my 88 today and didn't see the odometer cable coming out like the 85 does.. .. I didnt see the cable at all.. And I didn't see the speed sensor..

Im lost when it comes to viscosity but I have used this white lithium spray before on door locks. Maybe it would work?
Blaster White Lithium Grease, Aerosol, 11 Oz. 16-LG | Zoro.com

i have read posts about not putting not too much grease on the last foot of the cable because it will work its way up into the odometer.. The last inner cable I saw was wound like very fine threads. So if you could get some up in the cable it very well work its way on up...