Worn locks
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Otto, NC
Worn locks
My trucks door locks are worn. The locks work with effort, jiggling and pushing /pulling to get the key to work.
What is the fix. New locks I presume... I'd like to have the same key for everything.
What is the fix. New locks I presume... I'd like to have the same key for everything.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Chillicothe
I actually hosed mine out with Pb blaster using the red hose that comes with it. Pushed it in the key hole and flushed out all the crud. My passenger side lock didn't even work till I did that.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
I'm a big fan if a spray lube called tri-flow for locks. That said replacing all 3 lock cylinders(2 door, 1 ignition) is REALLY easy if the old ones work. Nor is a new set expensive.
I haven't done a ignition cylinder on a truck that late, a lot of older ones(87-91), I understand it's a little bit harder but not much, how is online.
Door is the same though, for the door you'll need a flat screwdriver, a small needle nose locking plier, a small needle nose regular plier, and a claw hammer or pry bar.
When you open the door and look at the door jamb side on the door by the lock you'll see a spring clip. Pry that clip out, when you do the lock will come loose, pull it out a bit through the hole. You'll see a flat lever bar, put the locking pliers on it to keep it in place sticking out the hole. Connecting the bar to the lock you'll see an E-clip, pull it off with the screwdriver and needle nose pliers, lock is out. Reverse to put back together, takes like 5 min each.
I haven't done a ignition cylinder on a truck that late, a lot of older ones(87-91), I understand it's a little bit harder but not much, how is online.
Door is the same though, for the door you'll need a flat screwdriver, a small needle nose locking plier, a small needle nose regular plier, and a claw hammer or pry bar.
When you open the door and look at the door jamb side on the door by the lock you'll see a spring clip. Pry that clip out, when you do the lock will come loose, pull it out a bit through the hole. You'll see a flat lever bar, put the locking pliers on it to keep it in place sticking out the hole. Connecting the bar to the lock you'll see an E-clip, pull it off with the screwdriver and needle nose pliers, lock is out. Reverse to put back together, takes like 5 min each.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
EDIT... That spring clip in the door jamb often has tape over it.
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4wd Low
Joined: Aug 2015
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Do you have power locks?
On my '96 F250 XTL, the passenger one did not work at all. Worked with the power lock from drivers side but key did not move at all. Drivers side got stuck on me too. After watching YouTubers do it in a few minutes and finding them cheap at the local O'Riley, I gave it a try. It was a PIA! I ended up taking both door cards off. They come of in a couple minutes. Passenger one was the hardest and after all that it still does not work. Can't move the key on a brand new lock when it's in the door. Works perfect when I took it back out.
After searching the internet I find this is common on power locks. Others have cleaned and used foil in the little electric actuator to make it work. It just looks like another pain geting the actuator out but that might be my next step.
On my '96 F250 XTL, the passenger one did not work at all. Worked with the power lock from drivers side but key did not move at all. Drivers side got stuck on me too. After watching YouTubers do it in a few minutes and finding them cheap at the local O'Riley, I gave it a try. It was a PIA! I ended up taking both door cards off. They come of in a couple minutes. Passenger one was the hardest and after all that it still does not work. Can't move the key on a brand new lock when it's in the door. Works perfect when I took it back out.
After searching the internet I find this is common on power locks. Others have cleaned and used foil in the little electric actuator to make it work. It just looks like another pain geting the actuator out but that might be my next step.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Otto, NC
Yes I have power door locks and they work fine but that's not the problem. As I try to figure this out I'm now wondering if I have a worn key. It's showing wear. The Ignition works fine it's just the doors that are the problem. I'm wondering if Ford can still make a key on a truck this vintage?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
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Yes I have power door locks and they work fine but that's not the problem. As I try to figure this out I'm now wondering if I have a worn key. It's showing wear. The Ignition works fine it's just the doors that are the problem. I'm wondering if Ford can still make a key on a truck this vintage?
Did you try the pb blaster like suggested? I also had luck getting the passenger side to work with it. It will eventually dry to a drylube, and then you can maintain the function with graphite.
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Elder User
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From: Otto, NC
I have not yet tried the PB B. I've not made it to the parts store yet but will by the weekend. I'm leaning toward a new lock set after seeing how easy they are to change out. I'll give to new locks a shot of PB B and that should make thing fine for a long time to come.
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Over There
I have not yet tried the PB B. I've not made it to the parts store yet but will by the weekend. I'm leaning toward a new lock set after seeing how easy they are to change out. I'll give to new locks a shot of PB B and that should make thing fine for a long time to come.
I recommend tri-flow because it's a penetrating Teflon lubricant that leaves behind a thin lubricating film that works fantastic in small mechanisms like locks.
That and frankly it smells good(kind of a vanilla smell), anything you put in your locks you're going to smell, it's gunna get in your door, on your keys, in your pocket, etc.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Rohnert Park Ca.
I personally wouldn't use original wd-40 on anything that is open to the air. Back in the mid to late 90's I used to work on over head car wash doors and the boss had us use it on all the hinges and rollers. Everywhere I sprayed had rust running down the door panels. So we switched to a product called jb-80 that worked good but I used tri-flo product had been using it ever since. So all hinges locks and handles get a good lubing and exercising.
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Elder User
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From: Otto, NC
These locks really don't need a lubricant, I don't think anyway. After putting all kinds of stuff in them they still work the same way. If I work the key in or out just so slightly and jiggle the key they work freely with no binding. Not doing this and the key feels like it's catching a tumbler that has not exactly lined up with the right key tooth. I'm still thinking after 18 + years it's time for new locks!
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Otto, NC
Here's another thought....If the truck has power door locks, which it does, did it have a remote entry too? How would I find out if it does? I never got a fob when I bought the truck from the last owner and never thought to ask.
If the truck does have a remote entry how would I code a new fob to work with my truck?
I forgot to ask in the last post...where is a good place to buy a complete lock set that's not made in China?
If the truck does have a remote entry how would I code a new fob to work with my truck?
I forgot to ask in the last post...where is a good place to buy a complete lock set that's not made in China?