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My 02' has been similar since I got it, except for the rough idle. I purchased mine at 75k, and now have 120k. No difference, just a slug until the factory temp gauge starts to register. I just figured the 4.5 gallons of cold oil was causing it.
My 02' has been similar since I got it, except for the rough idle. I purchased mine at 75k, and now have 120k. No difference, just a slug until the factory temp gauge starts to register. I just figured the 4.5 gallons of cold oil was causing it.
Different types of oil can make a difference. What oil are you using? How cold is it where you live?
Rats! I just changed my oil. Would that be ok for California winter weather? We had a couple weeks down into the thirties, but normal cold is forty in the morning, then fifty or so in the daytime. I'm not afraid to change oil viscosities. I went from 10w-60 in my dirt bike to 0W-40 and that made a world of difference with starting and the wet clutch. Notchy shifting was eliminated in all bikes. I've just worried about messing anything up in the diesel, considering I could buy a new bike and add all types of goodies to it for the price of a new engine!
Rats! I just changed my oil. Would that be ok for California winter weather?
I've used it down to 2F this year so far and, along with the new UVCH and Glowplugs and injector orings, I haven't plugged in at all and starts in a MAX of less than 3 secs. Normal is less than 2 secs.
15 secs of key on for glowplugs, and starts right up.
I tried this viscosity over the summer, but I preferred the 15w-40w Rotella in warm/hot weather.
I ran this viscosity into colder weather and when I noticed a less than optimum starting experience, I switched to the T6 and the improvement was immediate.
I'm going to have to try that. My concern is the weird weather here in the winter. The first half of this week was a high of 48F, and today it got up to 70F. Usually it does this in the first part of the year, then gets cold again until spring. It's a love hate relationship with our weather here.
Thanks for the reply. I've been lurking around here for 5+ years, but just started posting. I can't figure out how to like or give you reps.
The symptoms are straight out of the textbook for injector lower poppet valve seat wear.
Bingo!
I went thru this with a coworker recently. I said worn injectors & he said it had to be something else. He pulled the valve covers on a cold morning and found one injector not spitting oil till warm. Changed it and the glow plugs & the truck runs fine.
343k on the injectors is borrowed time.
I'm going to have to try that. My concern is the weird weather here in the winter. The first half of this week was a high of 48F, and today it got up to 70F. Usually it does this in the first part of the year, then gets cold again until spring. It's a love hate relationship with our weather here.
Thanks for the reply. I've been lurking around here for 5+ years, but just started posting. I can't figure out how to like or give you reps.
I wouldn't worry about the lower viscosity until about 80F and higher.
The oil would still meet the viscosity rating of 40W, but it sounds louder when it's hot out.
Sounds strange, since the operating temp of the engine is probably within 10F summer and winter, LOL.
If you want to rep someone, the scales at the top right of the post is how you do it. Usually add a short note is cool. It's a good way to show appreciation when folks help you out or post something really helpful. Not necessary, but a nice thing to do
Well, I replaced six injectors over the weekend and that cured my problem (the other two injectors were previously replaced). It took a lot longer than I hoped it would. The #1 GP wouldn't completely come out at first. It came apart. The "sleeve" of the GP came out, but the heating element was stuck. I put the sleeve back over the heating element, and put everything back together, but basically hydrolocked the motor. I had to tear it all back apart. The 2nd time I attempted to remove the #1 GP I used a cordless impact, and that impact was enough to break the heating element of the GP loose. It came out and I put a new GP in. Got it all back together and it's now running great. In addition to six injectors and one new GP, I installed the RR billet wheel and an S&B intake (previously had 6637). I feel like I have a brand new truck. Also, I previously thought I was having an issue with unbalanced wheels. Turns out the shake was due to bad injector(s). The truck is now smooooooth!
For the sake of people searching for answers...Prior to the injector replacement, I was having to plug in my truck every night even during the hot Texas summer. If I didn't, it wouldn't start. It's so nice not to have to tote around and extension cord anymore. The truck now runs great even on a cold start.
Last edited by Capt.Schenk; Sep 29, 2016 at 06:48 AM.
Reason: More info
Before replacing injector orings, I constantly had to park in the lower driveway and run an extension cord. Call my friends and say we'll be late, truck won't start. Go out 2 hours before leaving and plug it in...
I feel that pain! Glad it's over- for both of us
What injectors did you get, stock? Are you running a tuner?
Make sure GPs you only use OEM. There have been situations where the tips swell in others and then you CAN'T get them out with major troubles.