No CEL no crank 97 Expy 5.4l auto trans 4x4

Checked:
~ Theft Light not blinking
~Turned engine over by hand
~Starter. Manualy powered it with jumpers and it was non functional. Replaced
~Starter relay on firewall. Supplied power to relay trigger and it tries to start so the relay is good.
~Tested for power at relay trigger wire when key is in start position, no power.
~Pulled all fuses to check continuity, all under hood were ok, under dash Fuse #6 a 5 Amp was blown, #21 a 15 Amp was blown #30 a 30 Amp was blown. Replaced all fuses necessary, but no CEL/Service Engine Light
~These fuses all have voltage in run under hood #19 20 Amp (fuel pump relay), under hood #24 30 Amp (PCM power relay), under dash #30 30 Amp (PCM Power Diode)
~PCM Power Diode has full battery voltage power coming in on the right terminal the Diode itself read continuity from right to left and OL from left to right in Run
~Checked the EEC/PCM Relay and Fuel Relay by swapping into the horns location and trying the horn, I can also feel the EEC relay and Fuel Relay click in Run, and when I get down by the tank I can hear the fuel pump prime
~Ensured trans in park and tried neutral and wiggling the steering column.
~Tested for power at fuel injectors and coils. Verified
~I plugged in XCal 3 and it can read the code p1000 from the EEC
~I cannot get the CEL to come on while its key on engine off not cranking

- I am going to pull the Gauge cluster to check the CEL bulb but I’m not thinking it’s that, when I replaced all the fuses the 4x4 light and other lights in the bottom corner came on except the CEL.
-Is there an easy way to check the stater interrupt relay, would it cause the CEL to not come on at all?
-I want to check the Digital Trans Range Sensor but need to know the wire color for voltage in from the the ignition switch, and the wire color coming out to the relay, would it cause the CEL to not come on at all?
-Besides checking voltage to one side of the Crank Position Sensor connector is there a way to test the sensor itself by reading the resistance or something?
-What else could cause the Service Engine Light to not come one, do I need a new EEC or DTRS, or is there more troubleshooting I can do to narrow this down?
-Is there a better way to verify EEC voltage and ground besides back probing the EEC connector stuck up in the dash?

If anyone would please get me the necessary Wiring Diagrams from an EVTM that would be much appreciated, I have the chipped keys and the theft light does not flash when key is on.

 

Try this, hold the key in START, then run the gear selector from P through 1. I've had cases where the DTR switch on the tranny was so out of whack it started in R or D rather than N or P...

 

Ok I'll try that tonight, and ill pop the cable off the lever on the transmission itself and try every position.

Would the DTRS cause my no CEL at all?

 

Fuse #20 (50A)
light green/pink
to ignition switch


Then red/light blue
to fuse #21 (15A)


Then dark blue/orange
to DTR sensor.


Then tan/red
to starter relay on the fire wall.

 

The 97 Expy does not have a starter interrupt relay, at least from the factory. Verify no after-market anti-theft devices are installed.

PATS wont cause a "No Crank" on a 97 Expy.

What do you mean by "tries to start"? If the starter, battery, and cables are all good, the engine should crank normally and, if the ignition switch is in RUN, actually start.

Good, that means the PCM is powered up.

Check the bulb.

The Xcal3 says it's powered up. Believe it.

Neither fuse has anything to do with the CEL. However, you'd better figure out why F21 was blown since the engine won't crank with it open. F30, when open, will keep the engine from working as the coils are on that fused circuit.

 

Nothing different in any position, and no CEL

fuse #20 has13v and is HOT at ALL times
checked the light green/pink wire there is none
there are two green\purple that do get power
red/light blue wire has no power from the switch

no power on under dash fuse #21 .60 on left terminal .09 on right

it looks as if the previous owner ran a wire from the red/light blue wire from the switch directly to the dark blue/orange wire at the DTRS connector and cut it there and spliced there's in bypassing fuse #21

no power

Great no aftermarket installed anti-theft unit can be found

i know this just putting out there


as long as i have a jumper from the positive battery post to the little relay input at the middle at the top it'll turn over, as soon as I let go the truck stalls

Good news

I will thursday

ok good good


F21 can't blow again no power F30 is not open anymore and has voltage in run

 

Did it ever run in your possession, or did you just buy it in a non-working condition? Sounds like there's some hack job from the previous owner, I'll do you a solid. I have a 96-99 factory shop manual DVD in an iso file on my dropbox, I'll mail you a link. Be quick to download it though, the link expires in 6 or 7 days.

 

Exactly, please yes I thank you I'll download it today!

 

Please clarify what that means. Avoid using the term "turn over" as that's a pastry (ymmmm!) but it is not precise when referring to the operation of an engine and trying to convey what is being obvserved.

F21 is HOT IN START only. It's un-powered at all other times.

There are two R/LB wires on the ignition switch. One is HOT IN START only. It's unpowered at all other times. The other HOT IN RUN only. They are on different fused circuits and perform different functions.

It should be HOT IN START OR RUN.
.

 

Yes please, I thank you so much, I'll download it today! Do I need to PM you somehow with my email?

 

No it hasn’t, that’s how I got it. Yes, please, I would appreciate that very much, thank you! I’ll download it ASAP, how would you mail it to me? Do I need to PM my email?

it seems as if the starter is the only thing keeping the engine moving, and the first time I put the new starter in and jumped the positive cable to the starter relay signal post the engine sounded like it started , then it sounded like a shotgun went off. Every time since it seems as if the engine is running, until the starter signal post jumper is released.

Will check the START position tonight

I don’t have two of these just one, I do have a red/black, I’m guessing the red/lt blue is HOT in START and the red/black is HOT in RUN, I’ll check this tonight as well


will check in start

 

Yes please, send me a mail address through PM such, it seems that I am not able to PM you..

 

Once you have the EVTM, it will be a lot easier for you to follow our troubleshooting logic, just like a road map helps a lot when you're driving through an area for the first time.

 

Link for the factory service manual has been sent.

 

That dark blue/orange wire is the circuit that passes through the DTR (neutral safety switch) section to eventually power the starter relay. If the DB/OG wire has no power on it then you have to trace it back to find out why not.