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SuperDuty Purchasing Question!!

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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 01:00 AM
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SuperDuty Purchasing Question!!

Interested in purchasing a very clean 2003 superduty f250 crewcab.

My question, slow speed parking lot driving figure 8's, fully turning left or right the front wheels "act" or seem to slip like the 4 wheel drive is on? But the electronic sifter is in 2wd.
Let my clarify, 1/4 to 1/2 does not do this, 3/4- 4/4 turning does do this.
Now with the sifter in high and low, it acts and engages being obvious by the harsh wheel slip on pavement.
Does this have something to do with a solid front axle? I've owned a Tacoma and never had any type of wheel slip when not in 4wheel drive, but the front axle wasn't solid.

Thank you in advance! Written quickly as I want to give him my decision quickly to purchase.

On a side note 9k for 171,000 auto, wired for a plow and towing with tow package, sunroof and power everything that works, with recent work done and paperwork to prove it sound good?
Any KNOWN problems with a 2003 superduty engine?? Anything to avoid?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 02:04 AM
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Maybe the hubs are locked and so is the front diff?

To me, $9K seems high, but it depends on which motor it has. As a note, plowing tends to be hard on the front end.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 02:54 AM
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Has the 5.4 Triton v-8
Kellee blue book has it around 8400.

Here's the add.
https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/5346895697.html
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 07:42 AM
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Almost sounds like a sticky limited-slip differential.

I'd crawl underneath and verify that the driveshaft is free-spinning in 2WD. Both front hubs and the transfer case should disengage. If any one of those three components disengages no power will be transferred. Also, check that the hubs are set to "auto" instead of "lock".
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom
Almost sounds like a sticky limited-slip differential.

I'd crawl underneath and verify that the driveshaft is free-spinning in 2WD. Both front hubs and the transfer case should disengage. If any one of those three components disengages no power will be transferred. Also, check that the hubs are set to "auto" instead of "lock".
Alright, so have someone inch ahead while underneath? While looking at the front of the transfer case for it running the front right?

Do all the ford's hubs have this option? I thought the auto 4 wheel switch was the only thing for engaging the 4 wheel like a previous Tacoma I owned.

Thank you for all the info! Much appreciated!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 10:43 AM
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No, you don't need to move the truck. Doesn't even have to be running.

Just crawl under and see if you can spin it. If not something is locked in. The hubs are fully automatic, but you can manually lock them in the event of a failure. You'll see two settings at the hubs, lock and auto. You only want to use "lock" if you have a failure, leaving them locked in will make the truck burn more fuel because the differential will spin.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 01:18 PM
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sounds to me like the hubs might be stuck in the lock position. they are designed to lock and unlock automatically but they often stick due to wear and poor maintenance. its an easy fix with a set of warn premium hubs for about $270. try and manually turn the hubs from auto to lock. if they don't turn then you found the problem.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 01:39 PM
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Make sure you look very close under the cab and bed for serious rust. Fender flares on a truck with stock wheels and tires would tell me they are covering up rot on the bed sides.

I'd check/ask about the flares, check the bed cross members for rot and decay, and check underneath the cab where the side steps bolt too. Also check the bottoms of the inside of the doors.



If it is as clean as they claim, that price doesn't seem too bad to me.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104
Make sure you look very close under the cab and bed for serious rust. Fender flares on a truck with stock wheels and tires would tell me they are covering up rot on the bed sides.

I'd check/ask about the flares, check the bed cross members for rot and decay, and check underneath the cab where the side steps bolt too. Also check the bottoms of the inside of the doors.

If it is as clean as they claim, that price doesn't seem too bad to me.
That's really smart thinking on the flares, thanks!

Advice taken, I even brought my creeper and inspected the whole underside. Very clean truck for the miles at 171K, seems to have been garage stored for a lot of its life.

Thanks for the info!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom
No, you don't need to move the truck. Doesn't even have to be running.

Just crawl under and see if you can spin it. If not something is locked in. The hubs are fully automatic, but you can manually lock them in the event of a failure. You'll see two settings at the hubs, lock and auto. You only want to use "lock" if you have a failure, leaving them locked in will make the truck burn more fuel because the differential will spin.
I did end up inspecting and finding the guys hubs in the locked position, thank you for that info! Its is such good shape besides this that I did end up purchasing it. I figure theyll disengage after some driving or worse case I have to take the hub apart & repack, which all be doing anyways.

Thank you to everyone! Love the truck! My first Ford for me!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 07:02 AM
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I have a 5.4L F250 crew cab long bed. My wife and I love it. It immediately became the road trip vehicle when we travel. Big, comfortable, and smooth on the highway. The long wheelbase trucks ride really well... the only downside is the turning radius is almost as large as the moon's orbit....

Congrats!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 06:50 PM
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Congrats, you will love it for sure, let us know how the hubs work out and post some more pictures. Did you get the plow with the truck or not I see it was extra, it looked really clean it can't have been used much.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by reptar0077
I did end up inspecting and finding the guys hubs in the locked position, thank you for that info! Its is such good shape besides this that I did end up purchasing it. I figure theyll disengage after some driving or worse case I have to take the hub apart & repack, which all be doing anyways.

Thank you to everyone! Love the truck! My first Ford for me!
They won't fix themselves.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 on a side
Congrats, you will love it for sure, let us know how the hubs work out and post some more pictures. Did you get the plow with the truck or not I see it was extra, it looked really clean it can't have been used much.
Originally Posted by redford
They won't fix themselves.
He wanted 5k extra for the plow, he used it on his other truck & I get the impression he really wasn't looking to sell it, or if he did, he would be immediately replacing it.

The hubs worked great both unlocked after a couple of miles driving it back home. Once winter is over all be re-packing and replacing all the seals in them, leading into my other question.
On a 03 F-250 for repacking the hubs, does anyone have part #'s handy or mabe even a link to a seal rebuild kit for the hubs? T

Well I've believe I found an all in one O-ring kit
http://www.dieselorings.com/1999-200...o-rings-2.html
Those are the only O-rings needed right? Thanks!
 

Last edited by reptar0077; Jan 6, 2016 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Spelling
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