I will be replacing the engine mounts and transmission mount here soon as it's evident that mine are heavily worn. I've been searching the interwebs trying to get an idea of the procedure so I know what I'm up against but have had no such luck finding any detailed information.

I remember finding a thread a while back stating that the transmission would have to be removed and the engine darn close to being completely removed just to replace the engine mounts. I'm hoping that's not the case.

Truck is the one in my sig. 86 F250 4x4 460 4 speed. Thanks in advance everyone.

 

You can change the transmission mount while holding the tailshaft or transfer case with a floor jack.

I've never done motor mounts with the engine in place, but I can't say it's impossible.

 

I realize the book says 1983/84 with the 460 and you have a 1986 but this is all I can find, hope it helps nonetheless.

 

Thanks for the reply. The transmission mount I figured to be rather easy as just as you stated putting a floor jack under the tailshaft would provide enough lift to get the transmission mount in/out. I'd likely have already replaced it by now if it weren't for the engine mounts being shot and causing enough movement to damage a new transmission mount.

Greatly! Thank you ctubutis. That helps quite a bit as I was having trouble understanding exactly how it all mated together.

 

I don't know about your 4x4 but I managed to replace mine in a 1987 E350 van chassis just fine.

It's been a while but mine looked more like the diesel set up in the diagram posted.

I removed bolts 388049-S and then jacked up that side of the motor until the studs were clear of the perch. Then I removed a long through bolt and worked and wiggled the old mount (part 6038) out. When I put the new mounts in I noticed the studs were a little shorter than the original. Getting the through bolts aligned though the new mounts and back in was a bit of a challenge.

 

Exactly like he stated

 

I appreciate the input!


As can be expected my truck is just as the diagram depicts for 460's.

I hope the procedure is only as involved as what you both have experienced. Every rear wheel drive vehicle I've replaced engine mounts on in the past has been pretty much the same procedure for the most part. I assumed this truck to be no different. One can gather that you all don't expect the procedure to be overly difficult or involved. That being said I guess I'll go at it like I would anything else. Thanks again everyone!

 

I replaced the transmission mount last weekend. I'm going to try to get the driver side mount replaced this weekend.

My mounts are like part 6038 in the diagram.

 

What's the evidence your engine mounts are worn? I started a thread because I'm concerned about mine ('85 F-250 4WD w/460) but couldn't make a determination based on the replies I got.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html

 

My engine and transmission flop around when I let off the throttle or shift. When I back up slowly while slipping the clutch it jerks and shakes as the engine/transmission twist in the chassis.

 

From owning one of these for quite a while (22 years next month) I can tell you that doing the motor mounts (Ford calls them insulators) is no picnic. You have to damn near jack the engine through the hood to get them off and on. They sit so low on the engine they hang under the pan rails.




This is the right side on my new engine, you can see how low it sits on the mount plate.

Soak the heck out of your exhaust flange nuts so you can take the pipes loose. I usually take the radiator upper bolts out so it will come up with the engine, that way you don't have to drain it. As much of a pain as it is, I would do both sides at the same time. It takes an 18mm socket and a lot of contortion to get the nuts off the mount studs. I usually have jacked mine up by the balancer, if you do it on the pan, be careful, first you are lifting 865 lbs with over half of it forward of where you are, second, it is very easy to dent the pan. Have fun! I do not envy you.

 

Thank you so much. That's exactly what I was needed to know.

I'm contemplating paying a shop to do it. I haven't an idea how much that will cost though. But at least I know what the job consists of.

Years ago I saw a truck that had the engine chained to the frame. I've thought about doing something like that as well. Like a tension rod possibly or something along those lines.

I'm wondering how often I will have to be changing enginemounts as I pull quite a few heavy loads and the 460 is such a torque monster.

 

I think I'm going to try and tackle the engine mounts in the midst of a few other things that need to happen.

I'm wanting to install a set of Hedman 89340 headers a new clutch and a few other related components could also use replacing in that area.

So, if in the midst of that and the engine mounts combined if I could also replace the oil pan gasket being as the engine will be lifted up so high that would knock out a lot of issues at once and really make it more worth the effort. Is this feasible?

I've also thought that it doesn't seem like at that point there would be much more work to yank the engine out of the truck and shove a few gaskets, o-rings and such in other places as well.

It's a slippery slope I know but I've also yet to see if this truck has straight up timing or the factory retarded timing. I'm one of those "while your there" or "while your at it" kinda people. Just trying to maximize my time spent. It's not the money, most parts are cheap, it's the time and effort that I'm looking at most. I even have a new (not reman) NAPA water pump brand new in the box I could throw in at that time.

What to do what to do. Just how far should I take this I wonder... Thanks for all and any input so far guys. You all here on FTE are awesome.

 

Just pull the engine.
Trying to replace the oil pan gasket (in the truck) is damn near impossible.
Given you don't know if the timing chain has been changed, this will be an opportunity to clean all the nylon teeth and broken valve seals out of the sump screen.

Headers will be a LOT easier to lay in place with the engine out of the way.

 

Removing the engine will help with the oil pan gasket, but I did an R & R on mine to fix a clogged oil pump screen. With the engine as high as it will go, I blocked the engine up with a couple of pieces of 4X4 between the perches and the exhaust manifolds. As you can see from my earlier picture, the mounts actually sit partially under the pan rails. You also will need to remove or cut the exhaust pipes as the left one passes under the pan.

With the mounts off, drop the pan down as far as it will come, then reach in and remove the 9/16" nut on the #4 main cap bolt/stud and the 2 9/16" head bolts from the oil pump. Let the pump and pickup drop down into the pan. Work the pan down and back until it clears the clutch housing and cross member. Hardest part going back in is getting the oil pump drive into the distributor.

Headers, I would pull the engine or at least the entire front "doghouse" as you will break many if not all of the manifold bolts getting them out.

Timing chain, all carbureted 460s from 1972-1987 have the 4° retarded timing set, due to the age of your truck (30 years) I would not trust it. Quick and relatively inexpensive replacement, use an EFI 1988-1997 roller set.

Hope this helps.