460 oil filter clearance question
#1
460 oil filter clearance question
1985 F-250 4WD with a 460.
The lower side of my oil filter is so close to the cross member that I can't slide a pine needle between the filter and cross member.
This seem so close too me, worn motor mounts?
What's the normal amount of clearance?
I think this is the mount I need
The lower side of my oil filter is so close to the cross member that I can't slide a pine needle between the filter and cross member.
This seem so close too me, worn motor mounts?
What's the normal amount of clearance?
I think this is the mount I need
#4
No, all original.
I'll look in to that, though I have no idea what it should look like originally.
FWIW, I'm using Baldwin B2 which actually has a slightly smaller OD than the FL1A. 3.687 vs 3.780 based on what I can find for the FL1A.
FWIW, I'm using Baldwin B2 which actually has a slightly smaller OD than the FL1A. 3.687 vs 3.780 based on what I can find for the FL1A.
#5
#6
Maybe you just have to clock the lower radiator hose on the pump inlet to get some more clearance?
#7
Here're a couple of photos showing the limited clearance.
The first one, next to the cross member, makes me wonder about the motor mount rubbers. You have to look closely to see the edge of the cross member as it's in a slight shadow.
The second one makes me think the mount hasn't rotated down.
And yes, I know I have some oil leaks, those are on my to-do list when I have more funds.
The first one, next to the cross member, makes me wonder about the motor mount rubbers. You have to look closely to see the edge of the cross member as it's in a slight shadow.
The second one makes me think the mount hasn't rotated down.
And yes, I know I have some oil leaks, those are on my to-do list when I have more funds.
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#8
#9
I don't have experience with different motor mount brands, but I am an engineer specifically dealing with motor mounts for passenger cars.
The only difference I can imagine you would see from different brands is the quality of the finish, and accuracy of the mount assembly itself. It could be, perhaps, that one manufacturer does a bad job of metal preparation and adhesive coating prior to rubber injection - but that would only be evident by rubber/metal separation after time.
From what I understand, most of the time these "legacy" tools are transferred from the original production supplier to some "service" company who is willing to make aftermarket batches of parts. I could imagine that all these different "brands" purchase the motor mounts from the exact same supplier and put a different price tag on them - because none of these companies want to "tool up" their own aftermarket motor mount to sell to us ford-truck lovers - but that's just a guess.
And, yes, rubber will sag over time when under load. Typically all sag will have occurred within the first 5 years of use, and no additional sag will occur after this - only additional wear, cracking, deterioration.
Not that any of this matters to you! But I hope I could help!!
-Adam
The only difference I can imagine you would see from different brands is the quality of the finish, and accuracy of the mount assembly itself. It could be, perhaps, that one manufacturer does a bad job of metal preparation and adhesive coating prior to rubber injection - but that would only be evident by rubber/metal separation after time.
From what I understand, most of the time these "legacy" tools are transferred from the original production supplier to some "service" company who is willing to make aftermarket batches of parts. I could imagine that all these different "brands" purchase the motor mounts from the exact same supplier and put a different price tag on them - because none of these companies want to "tool up" their own aftermarket motor mount to sell to us ford-truck lovers - but that's just a guess.
And, yes, rubber will sag over time when under load. Typically all sag will have occurred within the first 5 years of use, and no additional sag will occur after this - only additional wear, cracking, deterioration.
Not that any of this matters to you! But I hope I could help!!
-Adam
#10
Thanks, your theory about brand differences pretty much mesh with mine. I think this is something I don't need to over think.
BTW, not doing heads, not sure why I typed that, I'm replacing the exhaust manifolds with the other things mentioned.
At least I hope I'm not doing the heads. I am going to do a cylinder leak down test while I have it out and hoping I don't have a recurrence shipfitter's disease. I contracted it many years ago and tend to have outbreaks now and then.
BTW, not doing heads, not sure why I typed that, I'm replacing the exhaust manifolds with the other things mentioned.
At least I hope I'm not doing the heads. I am going to do a cylinder leak down test while I have it out and hoping I don't have a recurrence shipfitter's disease. I contracted it many years ago and tend to have outbreaks now and then.
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