6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

mishimoto failed!

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  #16  
Old 02-11-2016, 01:33 PM
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I need to find out the latest and greatest because I'm facing this issue now after market or ford. FYI I've had my electrolytes tested every time the computer tells me to and they come up normal. More research it is for me
 
  #17  
Old 02-11-2016, 02:22 PM
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I was thinking the Mishimoto was the answer now its beginning to sound hopeless. Really starting to regret buying a Ford.
 
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:20 PM
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Here is a website on Electrolysis (current in cooling system). I don't know much about it, but I have heard of it in other makes/models as well.

How to test for electrolysis | Vehicle Enhancement Labs
 
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:53 PM
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My mishimoto failed after a year I'm not happy about it since I don't off road at all and my roads are fairly smooth but that being said I'd much rather shell out $100 than have to buy it retail again retail price. And it's really not difficult to take out the radiator once you have done it once. So you won't have to pay a shop to do it.
 
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:59 PM
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what a buncha junk, that must really be frustrating with a leaking radiator.
 
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:49 PM
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  #22  
Old 02-11-2016, 04:54 PM
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I wonder if anyone looked into rubber mounting the radiator. It would seem to me that allowing the radiator to float, isolated from the frame, might cure the problem. Just thinking out loud, I haven't had the pleasure to pull a radiator..... yet.
 
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Old 02-11-2016, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 89LX306
Here is a website on Electrolysis (current in cooling system). I don't know much about it, but I have heard of it in other makes/models as well.

How to test for electrolysis | Vehicle Enhancement Labs
That is one of the links i was going to list. Here is another form an aluminum radiator company.

aluminum radiator technical information

Back in the day of my new car dealer time, when radiators where all metal, we frequently used a voltmeter to measure for current. Coolant that needed to be changed would act as a battery, very low voltage, but voltage just the same.

We also tested our marine diesels the same way. Although on my own boat the coolant just got changed on a regular schedule, every 2 years or 500 hours.
 
  #24  
Old 02-11-2016, 09:06 PM
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Coolant that is bad is .3v if I recall.
If you think it's being casused by it you can try a grounding strap.
Another thought is a bad t-stat creating a simular issue as the 6.4 has. Thats just a random guess however.
 
  #25  
Old 02-12-2016, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by lynnmor
I wonder if anyone looked into rubber mounting the radiator. It would seem to me that allowing the radiator to float, isolated from the frame, might cure the problem. Just thinking out loud, I haven't had the pleasure to pull a radiator..... yet.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the radiator already rubber mounted? I can't see the bottom mounts, but the top mounts appear to be set into circular rubber mounts.

I'm assuming all your failures are the primary radiator? Does the secondary radiator ever leak / fail? If it does not, then why? Especially in light of the video from PSHelp above, you would think both radiators would shift on the 6.7L. However, the radiator support design appears to be different on the 6.7L than from the 6.4L. Not to mention, the truck in the video was a truck that would flex the most - a 450 dually long bed. Some of these guys are running SRW short bed trucks and still getting the problem and not off-roading.
 
  #26  
Old 02-12-2016, 07:17 AM
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Plastic at the ends of the radiator.


My 6.4 had the original radiator in it after I sold it 5 years later.


I put 86K on it was a lot of it either off road or cross country heavy towing.
 
  #27  
Old 02-20-2016, 05:33 PM
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Alright, I replaced the mishimoto today with another mishimoto. Hopefully this on lasts longer than the last. I put off installing this one for several months because it was not leaking to bad but it got to the point it was leaking out of both sides. The install took about three hours. I had it warming up and had to run get some more distilled water so i took the wife"s car to pick it up. I got back and things were a little low on coolant so I mixed some more up. As I was looking at the motor and checking things out it hit me! I did NOT take out the black plastic protective caps on the new radiator!!!! How did I forget to do this? They should really put caps that go OVER the inlet and out let, not one that stick inside. Still my fault. The top one was a piece of cake to get out, it was just in the radiator a few inches. The bottom one was a different story. Long story short, 2-1/2 hours later I had the bottom plug removed. Jesus, that sucked. There are rubber pads that are one the bottom mounts and everything seemed to have movement so I don"t know why this truck is eating radiators.
 
  #28  
Old 02-20-2016, 05:40 PM
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If it wasn't for my brother seeing those at the last minute I would have left those plugs in too. They need to make them a different color at least.
 
  #29  
Old 02-20-2016, 09:04 PM
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Wow, that's gotta be frustrating.

I still haven't seen anything conclusive about what's causing these radiator failures. They're downright rare on everything except late model diesel Super Duties.
 
  #30  
Old 02-21-2016, 06:52 AM
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Jreinert, how frustrating. At least you noticed it and got it corrected.


I have been posting in another thread too and just wanted to share this information here as well. I was able to pick up a new Ford radiator for $540 from my dealer. The radiator has a 2 year, unlimited mile warranty regardless of who installs it. I went this route because I can buy 2 of these before I purchase one Mishimoto if it's outside the 2 years. I would like the Mishimoto if I haven't seen the leaking post here and in other forums over the internet. And if Ford actually does something to correct the problem or compensate owners, it may be easier as long as I have my receipt. We shall see.....
 
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