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I know it can be done. I've seen a few on Ebay that have had a cylinder or 2 resleeved. I'd check with your local machine shops. If they can't get the parts, check with this guy.
Why would one do such a thing they cost about a $100 bucks a hole? when you should just about be able to find a block for that price. The local yard here sells em for $100 bucks complete takeout.But then again I live in a bow-tie belt But not that I am complaining cause it keeps the prices down
Here's a good example. My '70 Mach 1 Mustang still had the original 428CJ when I bought it. It had been rebuilt TWICE! Each time it was punched out 0.030. I had the block check complete and my machinist said the only way to save it was to sleeve the cylinders back to stock bore. Why did I spend almost $1000 to do this and a few other little fixes???Because a complete numbers matching 428CJ car is worth up to 40% more that a standard Mustang. That make it more than worth it to me.
Even for a truck rebuild, sleeves are usually stronger than the original casting and can occasionally be bored beyond the limits of the factory castings as well.
Stryder how would you know if the block matches by # ? The VIN code is not on the block.All you need to do is find a date code with the right cast number.I have found wierd date codes on trucks that should not be there.For example I found a 352 with a Dec 68 date code.Now the factory quit the production of 4.00" 352 blocks in 67,not to mention it was in a 67 truck.
My point would be C6ME-A blocks are all over, and came in 352/360/390/428 bores.
My latest find was a 72 360 block with 66-427 in the back and has the side-oiler cast in it(but not drilled) LOL, Now that was wierd.As far as going to a wet sleeve 427 bore that is very intresting.Never thought of that one.
Originally posted by hotrodfeguy Now that was wierd.As far as going to a wet sleeve 427 bore that is very intresting.Never thought of that one.
My friend the machinist who helped me with my 390 said he could make it anything I wanted... he just had to know how much he could spend... wet or dry sleeve, he didn't much care. He just had to heat up the block quite a bit and make sure there was a BIG interference fit between the block and the sleeve. Then, bore the sleeve, and it was perfect.
He's the guy who showed me it was possible to sleeve anything... including motorcycle cylinders...
He is also 30 years older than me, and I was 27 when I rebuilt my 390 ten years ago.
yeah one could "buy" the correct stamp if you knew what to get.
Anyway, the date codes also have to be within a 6 month period before the date on the car build sheet. Kinda hard to repro that one.