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FUEL COOLER issues

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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 08:08 PM
  #1  
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genotac-f250
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FUEL COOLER issues

Had to replace the "radiator" of the fuel cooler, some reason the back part was punched by a bracket behind it. When I noticed it leaking, don't really know how long it was leaking, I topped off the degas every day until I got the part in. Now I replaced it, topped off everything, topped off intake out output hoses from the actuator and the degas.

Now, how do I know if I'm getting any flow or if the pump is still working? it's cooler here right now 40s, and drove it around if 20 mins and all hoses were still cold to the touch.

Any help on this please.

THanks!
 
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 12:51 PM
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You can take a propane torch and carefully heat up the turbo actuator housing being careful not to melt any wiring connections. This will cause the fuel cooler pump to turn on. If pump is really noisy there is air in the system.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 07:37 PM
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You don't fill the fuel cooler system through the degas bottle, it has a separate fill as it is a separate system.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by genotac-f250
Had to replace the "radiator" of the fuel cooler, some reason the back part was punched by a bracket behind it. When I noticed it leaking, don't really know how long it was leaking, I topped off the degas every day until I got the part in. Now I replaced it, topped off everything, topped off intake out output hoses from the actuator and the degas.

Now, how do I know if I'm getting any flow or if the pump is still working? it's cooler here right now 40s, and drove it around if 20 mins and all hoses were still cold to the touch.

Any help on this please.

THanks!
The problem with this system is that it will not fill with coolant when assembled and it will not self purge as it naturally traps air. There are three different methods I know that work, two of which are outlined in the workshop manual. I am attaching this procedure - follow the instructions for the second procedure if you do not have a cooling system filler. Don't be alarmed - the front bumper is easy to remove. The third method requires having a cooling system flush machine which only a dealership or independent service departments might have.
 
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64-FuelCoolerBleeding.pdf (209.5 KB, 2315 views)
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sxrfun
You can take a propane torch and carefully heat up the turbo actuator housing being careful not to melt any wiring connections. This will cause the fuel cooler pump to turn on. If pump is really noisy there is air in the system.
Oh man, this is sooo wrong on so many levels. The fuel cooler recirculation pump is controlled by the PCM which uses fuel rail temperature data acquired from the FRP sensor located at the base of the secondary fuel filter housing. Taking a torch and heating up the turbocharger actuator will overheat the actuator, possibly damaging it in the process and shortening it's life.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 11:06 AM
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Ford Doc, thank you much sir! I will not be trying the propane torch route, sorry SXRfun. lol.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 11:09 AM
  #7  
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Also, I haven't heard any squealing from the pump...so I 'm guess the fuel cooler pump is out...ugh another part to replace.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by genotac-f250
Also, I haven't heard any squealing from the pump...so I 'm guess the fuel cooler pump is out...ugh another part to replace.
Don't make that assumption at this point. Sometimes it wont make noise if the system is dry AND please understand that it does not operate continuously therefore it may not have been commanded on yet or you simply did not hear it. If the pump fails it should also set a code and turn on the check engine light or wrench light if it fails or fuel rail temperature exceeds specification - I cant recall which. Just get the system filled properly and see how it goes. Don't fix it if it isn't broken!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 04:39 PM
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THanks again DOC! No wrench light, so I'll fill er up tonight and see how it goes.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Ford_Doctor
Oh man, this is sooo wrong on so many levels. The fuel cooler recirculation pump is controlled by the PCM which uses fuel rail temperature data acquired from the FRP sensor located at the base of the secondary fuel filter housing. Taking a torch and heating up the turbocharger actuator will overheat the actuator, possibly damaging it in the process and shortening it's life.
Is the coolant in the turbo actuator not controlled by the same pump? Thus heating up the coolant in the turbo actuator will activate the system? When I flushed mine I couldn't for the life of me get the pump to activate.....applied a bit of heat to the turbo actuator and the pump fired right up...obviously you don't heat it up to the extreme. I also did not remove the front bumper....you can still invert the fuel cooler rad with bumper in place...it's tight but it will go.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sxrfun
Is the coolant in the turbo actuator not controlled by the same pump? Thus heating up the coolant in the turbo actuator will activate the system?
Yes, it is the very same coolant. And I believe I owe you an apology on the actuator triggering the pump. Here is what I am going on: The service materials I have gone through state that the fuel cooler operation is based on input from the Fuel Rail Temperature sensor. But it depends on what section of the manual you are reading. So, I dug some more and did some additional reading.

I found it!

"The fuel cooling system is required to maintain an acceptable fuel and turbocharger actuator temperature during the engine operation. The fuel system temperature is monitored by the fuel rail temperature (FRT) sensor, which is an input to the PCM. The PCM commands the fuel cooler pump on by grounding the pump when the fuel or turbocharger actuator temperature exceeds the calibrated threshold. The coolant in the system flows from the fuel to coolant heat exchanger to the fuel cooler reservoir, to the turbocharger actuator, to the fuel cooler air to coolant heat exchanger, to the fuel cooler pump and back to the fuel to coolant heat exchanger."

I still however advise against using a torch to heat up the actuator module.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 09:58 AM
  #12  
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Yeah I was probably playing with fire that day heating it up with the torch, haha no pun intended...didn't take much though for the pump to activate. Maybe I just got lucky .
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Ford_Doctor
I still however advise against using a torch to heat up the actuator module.
how about a heat gun? just curious in case I want to test it.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 02:01 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
how about a heat gun? just curious in case I want to test it.
Much wiser choice. Anything over 300*F is un-necessary.

If you have, or have access to a Ford IDS the pump can be commanded on.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 04:36 PM
  #15  
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Talking Just completed



Great thread.
A few points from my experience.
- First, download the pdf from Ford_Doctor. Invaluable.
- Second, I could not get the fluid to flow through the entire system by pouring into the overflow reservoir. The fluid stopped at the turbocharger actuator cooler and did not flow down the hose, through the pump, into the radiator, and back up to the fuel cooler. So....
- Third, I pulled the hose off of the front of the turbocharger actuator cooler and poured it through the system. I could hold the hose higher than actuator-cooler so the system filled completely. When it was all balanced I quickly connected the hose back to the front of the turbocharger actuator cooler.
- Fourth, topped the actuator and overflow. I could tell the fluid was in the radiator as the top (now inverted) was cool to the touch.
- Fifth, turned it on and it puked out just like described in the pdf.
- Sixth, I used a half gallon of 50/50 gold, give or take to fill the system . Previously only could put in a half cup or so.
Just a few points for those that are as dense as me.
Thanks everyone for the previous input.
 
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