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Not too bad unless the brackets are riveted on. Mine were in an 81 F150. I cut the rivets (carefully) with an oxy-acet torch and replaced the rivets with Grade 8 bolts. If you are just doing the radius are bushings, you can leave them attached to the axle. Took about 3 hours and a little cussing!
If the radius arms are bolted on, it is not much of a job.
Originally posted by djhuebner Not too bad unless the brackets are riveted on. Mine were in an 81 F150. I cut the rivets (carefully) with an oxy-acet torch and replaced the rivets with Grade 8 bolts. If you are just doing the radius are bushings, you can leave them attached to the axle. Took about 3 hours and a little cussing!
If the radius arms are bolted on, it is not much of a job.
DJ
and if there riveted on???
i dont have oxy accetaline but i got a real nice angle grinder... think that will work????
If they are riveted and you don't have a torch, it could be a lot more work. An angle grinder would do it although some of the rivets would be tough to get to. You could also drill some of them out (carefully). If you can find somebody with a torch though you can have them off in 10 minutes! Just be careful and don't burn thru the frame or the brackets.
yes you can do it with an angle grinder, just cut the head off of the rivets, then heat the braket with a propane torch and punch out the rivets, and use some grade 8 fine thread nuts/bolts to re-install the braket, but it also might be a good idea of trying to loosen the nut on the end of the radius arm before cutting the rivets.
Mine too were riveted on, I pulled the whole front axle out of my 84 to change mine. I also changed the pivot bushings while I was in there. It really was not that hard, I laid my creeper under the axle and lowered it on to the creeper and just rolled it out from under the truck. Did what I had to do and slid it back under the truck and bolted it back into place. I also replaced the old worn out coil springs and shocks while I was at it. Kill a bunch of birds with one stone! I did it by myself, but I recommend 2 people for the job!
Anchor the vehicle from the back...say to a tree. Then using a come-a-long, hook to one side of the I beam and pull it forward after loosing the radius arm nut from the back side. Be careful, it will take some effort to pull the arm forward enough to change the bushings since you are pulling against the spring. Do one side at a time and I can't stress safety enough. You can change both sides in 30-60 minutes and don't have to take anything loose except the radius arm nut. I have done it on 3 trucks and 1 explorer. Did I mention Safety!
Originally posted by zigzagn Anchor the vehicle from the back...say to a tree. Then using a come-a-long, hook to one side of the I beam and pull it forward after loosing the radius arm nut from the back side. Be careful, it will take some effort to pull the arm forward enough to change the bushings since you are pulling against the spring. Do one side at a time and I can't stress safety enough. You can change both sides in 30-60 minutes and don't have to take anything loose except the radius arm nut. I have done it on 3 trucks and 1 explorer. Did I mention Safety!
It could work but I guarantee that you will need an alignment after doing this, not to mention the possibility of bending the axle housings and thus causing some abnormal vibrations, no certified
mechanic would recomend this, most of them would tell you not to do this at any cost, myself included
I did as zizzagn mentioned once on advice from a friend and it worked, but then the rubber axle/frame bushings began to fall apart. True - they could have been going out anyway, but... The best way is to get ready to go to work. Just make up your mind, get a torch, borrow one, whatever and remove the rivets from the radius arm bracket. Be sure to insulate the tubing, wires etc. from the heat. Get new bolts, Grade 8 or better, fine threads, lock washers, (or locknuts). Chock the tires good an proper and put a jack under the radius arms. Go to work, do it right and the next time will be a peice of cake.
I don't know why anyone would consider cutting or grinding the factory rivits. I find it to be much easier to remove the brake caliper, spring and shock. Then all that is required is the axle pivot bolt(18mm on the trucks I'vr done) and the radius arm nut. This will cause no bending or any other damage.
Actually what I suggested will not require a realignment. You are not affecting the camber or toe of the tire at all. I don't recommend this for the weak at heart or timid. Redneck mechanicing is not always the best way. Do as others in here have suggested if it bothers you at all to pull the axle forward as I mentioned.
just did my 83 4x4, first i put 2 heavy jack stands behind the radius arm brackets, put 2 floor jacks under the front axle,pulled both front wheels, calipers and upper spring retainers, lower shock bolts, pitman arm, pull the springs out to the side then jack the axle up until yhe radius arms are almost level, pull the nuts off each radius arm and slide it out on the floor jacks, took me and my daughter about 3 hours, impact wrench helps on the radius arm nuts and well as some liquid wrench, while mine was out replaced the coils with new coils for a extended cab of the same year really levelled the truck out, good time to replace the shocks to, good luck