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Old Nov 26, 2015 | 02:23 PM
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Help decoding Ford leaf part#'s

Hey all

I picked up my leafs from the wrecker, after a screw up this time they "for sure" got the right leafs. 99-04 F250 SD, Code V. apparently. They look to be in really nice shape, barely any surface rust along the length of the spring. Bushings look tight still. Bit of surface rust near the ends but overall a good find. But...

I couldnt help but notice however they have different part #'s...? Is there a left and right part#? Or have I been given the wrong leafs... again! Or 2 different codes? They supposedly both came off the same truck so Im a little confused, but dont know jack about Ford part# codes. Thanks for any help.




 
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Old Nov 26, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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Forgot to mention that they both seem to be identical physically. Just saw those stock #s and got nervous.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 01:44 PM
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Those are engineering numbers and they both cross to the same service part number so you are good.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 03X
...they have different part #'s...?
For clarity sake (part 1), those are not part numbers, those are engineering numbers like jpr posted.

Originally Posted by jpr38057
Those are engineering numbers and they both cross to the same service part number so you are good.
For clarity sake (part 2) Ford does not have a cross reference database, book, or collection of official factory info for those stamped numbers on the springs. For quite a few years there has been some anecdotal evidence and reference points for some numbers that can be found on the forums, which sometimes will help a person figure out what code springs they have.

In my opinion however, the best info comes from @RobRoss who has been able to collect what I consider the best data regarding those engineering numbers on the springs, and cross reference them to the codes Ford uses for their springs.

Stewart
 
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
For clarity sake (part 1), those are not part numbers, those are engineering numbers like jpr posted.



For clarity sake (part 2) Ford does not have a cross reference database, book, or collection of official factory info for those stamped numbers on the springs. For quite a few years there has been some anecdotal evidence and reference points for some numbers that can be found on the forums, which sometimes will help a person figure out what code springs they have.

In my opinion however, the best info comes from @RobRoss who has been able to collect what I consider the best data regarding those engineering numbers on the springs, and cross reference them to the codes Ford uses for their springs.

Stewart
Thanks Stewart, I briefly looked today and didn't find anything with the numbers above. Let me try again on Monday. In the meantime, the pns above may cross into the same service number but the the springs are a year a part and my question would be, have they had the same service life?
 
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RobRoss
Thanks Stewart, I briefly looked today and didn't find anything with the numbers above. Let me try again on Monday. In the meantime, the pns above may cross into the same service number but the the springs are a year a part and my question would be, have they had the same service life?
good to know. Ill see which leaf sits higher on the ground and use it on the drivers side of my PSD.

Or do I have that wrong? I thought they sat low on one side, thought it was driver.

Thanks for all the info
 
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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 03:58 PM
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To answer my own question, clearance from top outer edge of tire to fender are (on my ex, stock springs and 285/75-16's):

6 1/16 drivers side
6 3/4 passenger side

So if one of my springs is newer/stiffer its going on the drivers side.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RobRoss
Thanks Stewart, I briefly looked today and didn't find anything with the numbers above. Let me try again on Monday. In the meantime, the pns above may cross into the same service number but the the springs are a year a part and my question would be, have they had the same service life?
Oh, and thanks for looking into it! Appreciate the help!
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 10:45 AM
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Well, measuring the springs they seem to be the same. Used a caliper in a few places along the length of the springs and they match up. Same length, same weight, they gotta be the same code.

Also measuring with a caliper where the 2 leafs are bolted together I get 31mm, and the stock ones on the truck are measuring 27.5mm.

Installing tonight along with new track bar bushings (just because I have 285K on it and it'll be on the hoist anyway)
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 09:14 AM
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Well, put in the v-codes last night. Checked the track arm bar, and while having slight front-to-back movement, it was still very tight and doesnt move when turning the wheel, so we left it alone. Steering damper had some issues, felt like a "dead spot" in the middle of its travel, so replaced that.

Wish I would have done this a long time ago. May have to upgrade shocks in the future to something adjustable, but wow what a difference on the highway. One handed driving, my steering wander has all but dissapeared with this mod combined with the Landyots.

Likely going to do something with the rear someday as I feel the front sits a little too high, looks wise. Overall a happy camper. Here is my before and after bump stop clearance.






Just having that suspension travel really, really helps out. Thanks for all the help here. 2 of us who had never done Ford SD front springs before had it pulled in and out of the shop in 2hrs. (Helps that the other guy was a journeyman mechanic and it was on the hoist LOL)
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:10 AM
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Nice job! I've run the adjustable Ranch 9000's and recently switched to Bilstein, I prefer the Bilsteins. I bought the 5100's for the front and rear but the 5100s are too long for my truck so I'd recommend the 4600s in the rear.

Incidentally I haven't found anything conclusive on your spring part numbers. I'll keep digging when I have time and will report back if I find anything.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by RobRoss
Nice job! I've run the adjustable Ranch 9000's and recently switched to Bilstein, I prefer the Bilsteins. I bought the 5100's for the front and rear but the 5100s are too long for my truck so I'd recommend the 4600s in the rear.

Incidentally I haven't found anything conclusive on your spring part numbers. I'll keep digging when I have time and will report back if I find anything.
Thanks! I simply put the stiffer of the two (one looked newer, and had slightly more arch) on the drivers side. The drivers side is still lower than passengers, but I closed the gap quite a bit.

Why do you recommend Bilstein? Just curious what the ride is like (smoothness). I run 95% on-road, usually with my 4 kids in the back. Would you say the Bilstein 5100s are smoother than the Rancho 9000 adjustable? I currently have stock rear springs, Landyott RR and Monroe Reflex shocks. I can feel bumps on the highway up my spine if you know that feeling. It is coming from the rear for sure. I am installing some rear bump stops from a F250 SD that are shorter/different compound in order to gain a little suspension travel. Right now I cant tell if that jolting bump feel is the rear bottoming out or not. Ill know today, going for a spin after I put the shorter bump stops in.

At any rate passenger comfort is my #1 concern. Any ideas? I searched the forums to death and cant find whats the #1 set up for comfort.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 10:44 AM
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The ride is more controlled with the Bilsteins. We have terrible roads in Michigan and the Rancho's couldn't keep up on broken pavement. If there was a single event, they did fine but repeated broken pavement was bad. With the Ranchos, I like the ride on setting 3, however, I would still hit the jounce bumpers on some roads. The ride is firmer with Bilstein but still nice. They tow better also. The Bilstein 5100 has a bit too much low speed damping in the rear but considering the trade offs, I still prefer them.

Coat the rear jounce bumper with a thin film of grease and see if it transfers to the pad. Just a thought.


Originally Posted by 03X
Thanks! I simply put the stiffer of the two (one looked newer, and had slightly more arch) on the drivers side. The drivers side is still lower than passengers, but I closed the gap quite a bit.

Why do you recommend Bilstein? Just curious what the ride is like (smoothness). I run 95% on-road, usually with my 4 kids in the back. Would you say the Bilstein 5100s are smoother than the Rancho 9000 adjustable? I currently have stock rear springs, Landyott RR and Monroe Reflex shocks. I can feel bumps on the highway up my spine if you know that feeling. It is coming from the rear for sure. I am installing some rear bump stops from a F250 SD that are shorter/different compound in order to gain a little suspension travel. Right now I cant tell if that jolting bump feel is the rear bottoming out or not. Ill know today, going for a spin after I put the shorter bump stops in.

At any rate passenger comfort is my #1 concern. Any ideas? I searched the forums to death and cant find whats the #1 set up for comfort.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by RobRoss

Coat the rear jounce bumper with a thin film of grease and see if it transfers to the pad. Just a thought.
Thanks for the info! Will definitely try that out. I actually almost bought the 9000s but at the time I couldnt wait. Was going on a 3500mile trip and needed shocks beforehand so went with locally available Monroes.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 01:12 PM
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My front is good now for jounce clearance, just made a change to the rear that gained about 1.5" travel.

Old:


New:



Excursion vs F250 SD jounce stop


I saw this done on another site and the Ex owner reported back that he was very happy with it, so I figured its a really easy one to try. Like many other things, if the shorter bump stop worked good in the F250 why did they use a taller one in the ex? The tall Ex one does not seem any softer compared to the F250 stopper, at least with hitting it with a hammer.
 
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