Hey guys, I'm having to cross over the solenoid that's located on the inside passenger side fender to start the truck. Does this mean that I need to replace the solenoid of are there any other possible causes?

 

It's the solenoid.

 

Probably the solenoid. You can test by pulling off the single wire connector on the solenoid - see picture below. Jumper that solenoid connector (screw looking thing) to battery plus. If the truck turns over then the solenoid is OK and the problem is elsewhere. Make sure truck is in neutral or park, of course.

 

Yeah that's what I am having to do to start the truck. I have to jump from the positive on the solenoid to that small "screw looking thing". Do I need to remove the wire that's on the screw to test it?

 

If the trucks turns over when jumping that screw looking connector to battery plus then the solenoid is good. Do you have an automatic or standard? If standard then it could be the clutch safety switch.

 

I do have a 5 speed. I don't think it the clutch safety switch because when I try to start the truck it acts like the batteries are weak... Meaning that it bumps the starter intermittently but doesn't start. If that makes sense. By the way it a 96 f-250

 

I thought the battery terminals were corroded and not making good connection when it first started to give me trouble.

 

So from the key, you get just a bump, but jumping the relay it cranks normally?

 

Yes. From the key I just get a bump but when jumping the solenoid it cranks normally.

 

Then it's one of two things. Either for some reason the circuit from the START position of the ignition switch is providing weak voltage, or the relay is indeed bad.

Test - Disconnect the small terminal from the relay, and put a voltmeter into the wire terminal, and read it while someone holds the key in the START position. If the voltage is the same as battery voltage, then that suggests the wiring circuit is good, and the relay is suspect. If the voltage is low, then there's a problem in that circuit - ignition switch, clutch switch, etc.

Edit - another possibility is inadequate grounding of the relay. Unlike the GPR, the coil circuit completes itself by grounding through the mounting base. Look for corrosion there.

 

Ok thanks for the information. I'll have to check the voltage.

 

Checked the voltage. It's low coming from the ingnition. Thinking about just putting a relay in line from the ignition as a quick fix. Any thoughts on doing that?

 

What you describe doing is exactly what the starter relay does. You should check the ignition switch and clutch switch; it's most likely in one of those places where the voltage loss is occurring.

 

Thanks for all the information. I'll have to track down the low voltage at another time. For now adding a relay at the solenoid seemed to get it going.

 

I am having some braking issues also. When I brake the driver rear tire locks up occasionally. The truck also pulls to the left pretty hard when braking. I replaced all the brake pads, shoes, rotors, drums, and all new springs on the drum brakes. Replaced the rubber brake lines on the front tires too. The only parts I didn't replace were the front calipers and the Pistons in the drums. The truck still pulls to the left just the same as it did before. Also when I took the old pads off the front driver side was wore down to the metal and the front passenger side still had lots of pad left on them. The rear drum shoes seemed to be wore about the same. So my question is. Is there anything I am missing that would cause the pulling to the left? Is there a valve of some sort that could be directing more brake fluid to the driver rear that's causing it to lock up? And the same to the front driver side causing it to wear the pad down faster?
Also if I need to start a new thread for this subject I will