Looking for acorn chrome lug nuts.

14x2, right? 2" ?

Suggestions that won't break the bank or round off and rust up the first time an impact gun spins

Thanks!

 

Depends on the year for the SD.
From memory, so you may want to verify before spending $
99-02 14x2.0, and 03 up uses the 14x1.5 .

As for suggestions.... Don't buy cheap lug nuts, they do not take kindly to being torqued to 100ft lbs

Back in the day I had some new rims installed and the shop used which ever cheapo nuts they had.... A year later I go a flat. Sitting on the side of the free way I went to change it.... First one stripped, second one broke, next one stripped... Ended up having it towed to a shop where they ended up cutting off the wheel. Tow, new rim, new hub, new tire $1000 later those cheap nuts were no longer cheap.

Buy high quality lug nuts and use anti-seize, do not install with a impact. Use a torque wrench and torque to spec.

 

Almost forgot.

Make sure you have a socket that fits inside your rims lug nut hole.
Most impact sockets will not fit and you need to use a thin wall socket.

Now that you have the correct socket , make sure you carry it and a breaker bar with an extension so you can change a flat.

If you are keeping the factory spare don't forget to put 8 factory lug nuts and the correct tools for it in your excursion so you can install the spare.

 

Thanks, that's the same line of thinking as I have. I read 150ft/lbs (on here, not the manual) and still using the standard-style lug nuts like most vehicles, not the deep ones.

I got concerned about the number of threads when I read the torque spec

I have a $45 gift card from 4wheelparts.com and ordered a set of Pro-Comp (paid the difference), but do NOT like them at all.

The chrome finish isn't uniform, two nuts show install marks and grooves on the bevel (from a previous install?), the "chrome valve stems" were all black rubber, and I'm not thrilled with the splined shape.

Big disappointment, had to argue about getting the shipping refunded. If I just didn't like them, no issue, my fault. But failing to deliver NEW and ACCURATE product...that's on them. It was resolved, just took some time.

I am returning them and looking for standard shaped lugnuts now, but am really leery about what to select, hoping for a brand/supplier reference ?

I think I'm getting a bit spoiled and jaded with suppliers on these SuperDuties. Spoiled because so many here are quick to share their "best" product purchases, and jaded because it seems there is so much "junk" being hawked for the SD

Also- am I right about the 2" nuts? I was tempted to try the ones I'm returning for fit, but that wouldn't be "right" I don't know if the vendor repackages the remaining, unused parts or what, but I don't want to interfere with that by getting marks, anti-sieze, etc on them.

 

Also good advice

 

Doh.... I was typing too fast. 165 ft lbs is the spec I use, I suspect others use a different spec likely due to not having a torque wrench that goes to 165

 

I wouldn't use the pro comp splined nuts on anything over about 100 ft lbs as that is right about where the supplied thin wall socket breaks. A cracker socket results in a stripped nut and then you get to have fun cutting it off.

FYI.... Have used them on vehicles and trailers and have broken more of their sockets then I care to admit.

If you want splined nuts buy the Mcgards , USA made quality product.

 

The 2 or more accurately the 2.0 is mm and is the pitch of the threads.
2.0 is course trades and 1.5 is fine threads.

You can get many different lengths of lug nuts depending on what or how you want them.

I have a few different styles I use depending on which rim I am using.

As for supplier, I have my contact at a local tire shop order me made in the USA nuts with the specs I want. I don't know who the mfg is on them but I am sure if you go to a locally owned tire shop they can hook you up.

 

Not that it matters what I like since everybody will have their own preference but my preferred nuts are a medium length with a 3/4" hex.

The reason I like the 3/4 hex is because a thick walled 1/2 drive impact socket will fit in most rims. On many of today's rims you have to use a 3/8 drive thin walled socket if you use a 13/16 nut.

 

These are coarse threads, (2002 MY, I read they changed in 2003 to fine 1.5mm?), and the ones I have now are the 4th from the left in your pic.

Looking at the style of the next one right. Asked about the length because of the acorn cap and stud length

My local tire shop is a buddy, very small. I often bring "new" things to him He sells and installs many of the tires in this very, very small town.

Thanks for the heads up on the ProComp That could have been...ugly

 

Good reasons

Do the 3/4" length acorns clear the end of the studs?

BTW, not sure why "quote" doesn't include pics anymore

 

The 3/4" isn't the length of the nut it is width of the hex, as in it takes a 3/4" socket.

The length of nut you need to to fit the stud inside the acorn will depend on how thick your rims are.

 

Uhm...yeah... That makes a lot more sense

Lots of phone calls, a quick appt, an urgent service call tomorrow, and someone coming to help with remodeling today.

I'm a bit distracted. I'll have to grab my calipers and get some numbers, but not likely until Wed...

I thought it would be simpler, but it all makes sense. Thanks

 

THIS! Don't forget this.

I subscribe to the 2-part torque method of 80ft lbs the first round, then torque to 160 on the second round.

Along with McGard (excellent choice) another one I'd recommend is Gorilla Automotive Products - Lug Nuts, Wheel Locks, Auto Security, Wheel Accessories

Stewart