When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I took out the rear hatch door lock cylinder because it was so corroded that key would not even go in. New lock cylinder, and pawl matched to my existing keys should be in USPS mail box tomarrow.
Decided to check the electric lock and latching mechanism and it was VERY sticky. Felt like gears and stuff we're catching and not working right. Sprayed with brake cleaner and cleaned really good. Lubed it up and still it was not working smooth, like it should.
The fix for me was the electric motor alignment. It is installed by just sliding on the mechanism. It had slid front wards pulling on the arm it was attached to. This put things in a bind. I tapped it towards mechanism about 1/4 inch and wa la, smooth as the day it was built. I superglued the motor to mechanism and it work like a charm.
You do not have to even remove the mechanism like I did. You should be able to push the electric lock motor rearward with everything attached. Then just superglue it in place. I think many years of slamming top hatch shut forces the electric motor out of allignment.
Some photos.
