How To Load Test Batteries On E350 frame mounted batteries
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,558
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From: Bay Area
How To Load Test Batteries On E350 frame mounted batteries
I need to load test the 2 frame mounted batteries on my e350 van. There is a red plug on the frame rail that tow truck drivers use to jump start these vans. I connected a volt meter to it and ground and could not measure anything.
I watched a Youtube video where the person used a Fluke dvm with the high/low setting. When the engine turns on, it's under load. I borrowed a friend's Fluke with the high/low.
I am trying to isolate the reason why my FICM main voltage is low after the glowed plugs are turned off. I posted on the diesel and the guys are good at answering anything about diesel. They instructed me to test the battery under load. As usual, I am one of the few with a van.
I watched a Youtube video where the person used a Fluke dvm with the high/low setting. When the engine turns on, it's under load. I borrowed a friend's Fluke with the high/low.
I am trying to isolate the reason why my FICM main voltage is low after the glowed plugs are turned off. I posted on the diesel and the guys are good at answering anything about diesel. They instructed me to test the battery under load. As usual, I am one of the few with a van.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Load testing your batteries will require one of those carbon pile testers or a semi-sophisticated (but easy to use) electronic battery tester. That's about the only real test of your battery's real storage and delivery capabilities.
A DMM will show voltage to or between terminals but in no way can one of those measure amperage over 10 amps max---they're internally fused to protect the meter.
No power to the + terminal and ground suggests a loose connection to the jump start lug or no continuity to ground--scratch through the surface rust on the frame rail.
I've read but don't know a lot about FCIM's but aren't they prone to failure for almost no apparent reason? It seems they might be subject to a bad connection at the device itself causing the low voltage condition.
A DMM will show voltage to or between terminals but in no way can one of those measure amperage over 10 amps max---they're internally fused to protect the meter.
No power to the + terminal and ground suggests a loose connection to the jump start lug or no continuity to ground--scratch through the surface rust on the frame rail.
I've read but don't know a lot about FCIM's but aren't they prone to failure for almost no apparent reason? It seems they might be subject to a bad connection at the device itself causing the low voltage condition.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Bay Area
I don't want to drop my batteries yet as it appears you have to be circus acrobat to remove these batteries. I will post on the SportsMobile forum for some help on removing the batteries.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Bay Area
I could not get continuity on the frame rail and unfortunately, I had to stop the testing because my wife volunteered me for an event. The red jump start plug works as the tow truck driver was successful in starting my rig. He probably used a better ground.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Good moves all around CoolFeet----have your buddy's sophisticated tester thingy look for a suitable ground spot too---has to be something close to the external positive jumper lug.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 3
From: gravel road ONTARIO
just loosen up the bolts on the frame and let the batteries hang by the cables. the load test them as you would any other battery.
they are probably due for some connection cleaning anyway......................
they are probably due for some connection cleaning anyway......................
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,558
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From: Bay Area
I have the rear battery hanging. How do I safely remove the battery from the box without tipping it over? I am afraid it may leak or spill.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Kountze, Texas
I don't think he means the battery cables. The factory frame-mounted battery boxes have steel cables to support them. You loosen the bolts and they hang from the steel cables.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 3
From: gravel road ONTARIO
that is exactly what I mean, coolfeet should know about these already with 777,000 miles on his van .
old country song about " this ain't my first rodeo" comes to mind.............
batteries can be load tested right in the boxes , after posts are cleaned
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 3
From: gravel road ONTARIO
I wouldn't mind one for my 86 E150 shorty. bigblock in it will be enough weight out front. I can't read any part numbers on my rusty battery boxes on my 2003 or 2005.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Bay Area
EBay sells the frame mounted boxes.
It took me 15 minutes to remove the second Box. Easy. I load tested at Autozone. Both tested good.
Bad news-battery terminal clamp was broke on first battery. It daisy chains to second battery. It's the hot cable and a little tricky to repair. Ford sells the cable as an assembly for $750.
It took me 15 minutes to remove the second Box. Easy. I load tested at Autozone. Both tested good.
Bad news-battery terminal clamp was broke on first battery. It daisy chains to second battery. It's the hot cable and a little tricky to repair. Ford sells the cable as an assembly for $750.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 3
From: gravel road ONTARIO
EBay sells the frame mounted boxes.
It took me 15 minutes to remove the second Box. Easy. I load tested at Autozone. Both tested good.
Bad news-battery terminal clamp was broke on first battery. It daisy chains to second battery. It's the hot cable and a little tricky to repair. Ford sells the cable as an assembly for $750.
It took me 15 minutes to remove the second Box. Easy. I load tested at Autozone. Both tested good.
Bad news-battery terminal clamp was broke on first battery. It daisy chains to second battery. It's the hot cable and a little tricky to repair. Ford sells the cable as an assembly for $750.
battery adapters to attach to a post top battery(your 65s) to match to a stud type connection(GM style)
any good autoparts place can supply them. attach new cables/ends to adapters.................... easy easy easy. might even be enough positive cable to do this without buying any.
when you cut the cable ends off use a gear clamp to hold the insulation tight to the cable and it won't fray easily.
crimping tool not required....... good large vise grips to start and then a punch or chisel to finish the crimp. and heat shrink is your friend!
soldering is great if you have the skills and a big enough torch.