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So finally found the owner of this truck, the guy came into my work a while back for an inspection, I asked him if he was willing to part with it he said yes I gave him my number and then my phone breaks 3 days later *fml* come to find out this truck has been hiding in plain sight lol, I was coming home from a buddies house and saw the truck, the next day I go back to the guys house we get to talking, a couple days later I came back once more to test drive the ol girl, she's been sitting for a good bit, the guys old boss bought it brand new and custom ordered it too
Luckily this guy keeps a maintainer on the batts, starts and drives it every once in a while and only gets the oil changed once maybe twice a year, so on the test drive she drove well minus not really wanting to go over 65 with the accelerator to the floor, another concern is she likes to roal a Lil coal in 2nd & 3rd gear (wot) to fix that I just need to turn down that fuel screw with a 7/32 Allen right? Being that she's sat I'd like to say that her return lines and o-rings need to be redone correct? The only thing that really concerns me is that after I took this test drive I noticed a rattle like noise coming the bottom of the motor perhaps the bottom end?, how ever it was only at idle that this noise was noticeable it never got worse with higher rpm's so I thought it was cause the oil was old that it's lost its lubricity and that's the problem she's got 177k and the a/c will need to be redone, hopefully not the compressor.. and shell need new tires too. So far on the to do list for the girl (if I get her) is return lines, o-rings new tires all the way around and the a/c being redone I've talked him down to 3000 as he has no idea what these ol girls are worth and I'm thinking maybe 2500 with what she needs right now? The diff tcase and trans could prolly use new fluids huh? What do yall think?
Manual or automatic? If sitting it needs at the least a atf treatment. Looks rust free, that's worth quite a bit in itself, especially extended cab long beds that like to rust under the extended cab section.
looks clean. i would not touch the return lines, they look like they were recently done and not leaking.
i would change oil, air filter, and fuel filter. fill the new fuel filter with ATF and start engine. let idle for 30 seconds then shut off. let it sit for 24 hours, then fire it up and go for a good drive.
this should fix the throttle issues.
250, or 350?
changing the fluids in the differentials, trans, and transfer case can not hurt, but it is not a must do rite now thing as long as they are full.
Looks good. On your list consider a turbo after all the basics are done. Search the junkyards and craigslist , I just finished mine. I can hit 70 around 2000 rpm.
Alrighty yall shes got the zf5 in her and those return lines are kinda moist but if they're not leaking a **** load then just leave em? Shes also a 250 with 177k
Alrighty yall shes got the zf5 in her and those return lines are kinda moist but if they're not leaking a **** load then just leave em? Shes also a 250 with 177k
See a previous post "fuel leaks, where to look" by macrobb, he gives a good method for tracking down minor leaks. In my experience fuel leaks don't go away our get better by themselves, but end up turning into a larger problem, usually at the wrong time
does it start rite up, or start, die, then take some cranking to restart? that is the sign of air intrusion.
if it starts rite up cold and stays running, you can put off the return lines, caps, and o rings until you get the other things taken care off.
DMF are good until they go bad lol
as we cant hear the rattle, i would check the inspection cover.
clutches are not a deal breaker. just as pain in the rear to do with a 1 man army.
clean truck.
the springs break in them. they are a 2 piece flywheel.
hence the name, dual mass
ive never had one myself, my 87 was lucky to have a single mass in it,
but the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate were one of the first things i purchased.
out came the T19, and in went the ZF5
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