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I was wondering if anyone has installed an electric fan with a 352 motor. Where do I put the 180 degree thermostat switch? The thread size is the same as the thermostat sensor in the intake. Thanks in advance.
May I ask why you are wanting to install an electric fan in the truck? Are you running AC?
John
Certainly. I have been working on the truck for almost a year now and finally got it back on the road a few weeks back. I was stuck in Atlanta traffic and the temperature climbed to 240. I did not want that to happen again so I purchased an aluminium radiator and an electric fan. Plus my wife was scared that she would come home from work one day and find me dead because I accidentally cut my hand off.
The one thing that these ol trucks wont do is sit and idle. As long as it is moving forward 20 miles per hour it doesn't need a fan at all. Hope you are running a 50/50 mix coolant. I recommend 1 gal Prestone mixed with grocery store distilled water. I keep it on hand to be able to mix correctly when needed.
The temps have been cool enough recently you should not have boiled your coolant even in Hotlanta. Did it boil the coolant out or did the gauge go up?
The one thing that these ol trucks wont do is sit and idle. As long as it is moving forward 20 miles per hour it doesn't need a fan at all. Hope you are running a 50/50 mix coolant. I recommend 1 gal Prestone mixed with grocery store distilled water. I keep it on hand to be able to mix correctly when needed.
The temps have been cool enough recently you should not have boiled your coolant even in Hotlanta. Did it boil the coolant out or did the gauge go up?
Can't advise on wifes concerns.
John
It actually boiled out the overflow tank. Thanks for the advice.
How much boiled out? The top of the rad requires expansion room. If you can pull the cap when cooled and see coolant you are good. It was just burping out the too full amount.
Most 50-year-old cars and trucks barf occasionally but I don't blame you for wanting to stop it. I use a 195* thermostat in my 352 and it leaves a wet spot when it's hot out. I plan for a Mk 8 fan and switch system eventually. But... to answer your question, the thermostatic switch must be on the "inside" of the thermostat to truly measure engine temperature.
Eric
[QUOTE=jowilker;15793496]How much boiled out? The top of the rad requires expansion room. If you can pull the cap when cooled and see coolant you are good. It was just burping out the too full amount.
John [/T]
Yikes. I did not pay attention. I can tell you that my original radiator was really rusted.
Most 50-year-old cars and trucks barf occasionally but I don't blame you for wanting to stop it. I use a 195* thermostat in my 352 and it leaves a wet spot when it's hot out. I plan for a Mk 8 fan and switch system eventually. But... to answer your question, the thermostatic switch must be on the "inside" of the thermostat to truly measure engine temperature.
Eric
Thanks Eric. I decided to use a toggle switch until I figure it out.
Is your new radiator and electric fan new or used? Did it come with any instructions? Is there a manufacturer's name on the components? If so, you should be able to call or e-mail them to see what they recommend. Their website may have a downloadable set of instructions. I had electric fans on an engine many years ago and the fan on/off switch sensor slipped inside the top radiator hose. See if you can find out who made yours and then find out what they recommend. Good luck.
Is your new radiator and electric fan new or used? Did it come with any instructions? Is there a manufacturer's name on the components? If so, you should be able to call or e-mail them to see what they recommend. Their website may have a downloadable set of instructions. I had electric fans on an engine many years ago and the fan on/off switch sensor slipped inside the top radiator hose. See if you can find out who made yours and then find out what they recommend. Good luck.
Hello. They both are new but they can fit numerous applications. Thanks for responding.
You'll probably need to drill and tap the manifold to put the sensor where it needs to be.
What will be best is an adjustable fan controller. Some of those can use the fins of the radiator core as a reference, which is convenient. That way you can tell the fan precisely when to come on and because it is adjustable, it does not matter if the sensor is getting the actual engine temp - you just tell it to come on at a reference temperature that coincides with the desired engine temperature.
Another thing, make sure your radiator cap is good. A worn out cap won't hold the pressure it should which can result in what appears to be the engine overheating, when it only needs a new cap. With an observed 240 degrees, that's probably not what was happening but it brings me to another suggestion, get a laser thermometer so you can check the accuracy of your gauge.
You'll probably need to drill and tap the manifold to put the sensor where it needs to be.
What will be best is an adjustable fan controller. Some of those can use the fins of the radiator core as a reference, which is convenient. That way you can tell the fan precisely when to come on and because it is adjustable, it does not matter if the sensor is getting the actual engine temp - you just tell it to come on at a reference temperature that coincides with the desired engine temperature.
Another thing, make sure your radiator cap is good. A worn out cap won't hold the pressure it should which can result in what appears to be the engine overheating, when it only needs a new cap. With an observed 240 degrees, that's probably not what was happening but it brings me to another suggestion, get a laser thermometer so you can check the accuracy of your gauge.
Thanks for the great advice. I never thought about the adjustable switch.
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