I put an Endurashine intake and carb on my small block Chevy. Worse mistake I've made. They stain easy, and start peeling around the thermostat housing.

 

Never tried the carb jet but sounds like a neat trick, I normally found a rod or bolt that fit the hole and cut it about 1/2" long then drilled an .080 hole thru the,middle, then installed it in the oil hole under the rocker stand.


I like the look of an intake that has been glass bead blasted, it's a smoother finish and matches aluminum valve covers better than a new rough cast or sand blasted manifold.

 

Back to dip sticks....

Any running the FT "stick" in pan with a set of Hooker headers? Since I have the option of running either the stick through the front of the block (and using an aftermarket Lokar) or using the through the pan stick, I'm slightly concerned if the pan mounted stick will work with headers. I don't plan to run headers just yet (so I don't have them to fit up), but I'm concerned the pan mounted stick won't work well.

Last I checked, the Hooker brand is just about the only one that fits in a '73 2WD Camper Special. Unless anyone knows different?

I hope to be opening up the main oiler holes this weekend.

 

You can install the engine so it's setting at the proper angle then fill the pan with oil to the qrt low level on the pan stick. Now install the block stick and check the level to see if the marks are correct, if not remark the stick. After you have this done add the final qrt of oil and do the process over the check and or mark the full level. After your done pull the pan stick and tube out and plug the opening.

 

I just realized your putting this engine in a two wheel drive truck and that could be a problem with the 391 oil pan. The stock pan only clears the cross member by about an inch and the 391 pan is deeper I believe. You need to check the depth of both pans and if it's much deeper the pan will set on the cross member. Also check the location of the drain plug to make sure it's behind the cross member or you'll never get it out.

 

Hey Destroked, thanks for the heads up. I finally had a few hours this evening to try and get some work accomplished with this project. Inked & scribed the three main oiler holes to open up tomorrow and began chasing threads. Need a 1/2-13 tap.

I also had a moment to check clearances for the 391 pan in my 73 F250 2WD. Looks like it is going to fit A-ok. You are correct the depth of the 391 pan is slightly deeper than my existing front sump. The 391 pan is similar to the profile of the 4WD pan...not as extreme, but the depth for the front half of the pan is around 6-1/4" and then drops deeper to 7" just past the 5th pan bolt. I'll definitely watch closely when I install the motor, but it appears the big pan will work just fine- actually be easier to access the drain plug, thank goodness. Might be a little tricky clearing the cross member during install, but I'll cross that road when I get to it.

Goal this weekend is to finish oiling mods in the block, finish chasing bolts, pressure wash the block and passages, install oil galley plugs, install the distributor bushing, and paint the block. Would be a bonus to get the cam and crank in.

Anyone happen to know which holes along the side are used for the mounts on a truck? Mine are threaded, but the old 391 didn't use them and I'd prefer to mask before painting. there are four on each side. It appears from looking at photos on the net that the more forward two bolts that have large bosses are used?

I'm 90% convinced that I'm going to use the front dipstick option rather than the stick in pan. The likelihood of having clearance issues with headers is greater going with the stick in pan approach. The stick I do have that came with the 391 is broken, so I need to replace it anyway- good excuse to go with a locking Lokar. I've heard (and noticed on my 360) that the FEs tend to pop the stick out, blowby or not.

Here's a nutty question, but I could use some opinions. Paint color....I bought a pint of "aluminum" color POR-15 engine enamel. I don't intend to paint the oil pan this color though. I'm thinking of going black for the oil pan and water pump. That or I do the pan and water pump in Ford blue. I'm thinking black because that's what I'm thinking of doing for the accessory brackets, mount towers. Ideas? Covers are polished. Will most likely leave the intake "as cast"....I think.

 

Here's a pic of the beast (testing my newly learned skill of adding photos) when I first picked the 391 up in Oakland, CA.



Notice how the pan is deeper towards the back.

 

Block, heads and water pump in POE-15 aluminum, oil pan and timing cover in dark Ford blue, brackets and pulley's in gloss black. The water pump and block in aluminum will make the blue timing cover stand out and the blue oil pan will give definition to the size of the block and heads.


That's my .02


Been thinking about colors myself, going to paint the block blue but the heads are aluminum and haven't decided weather to paint them or leave bare. Canton oil pan is gold anodized so I'll leave it as is, valve covers are chrome pent roof, intake and air cleaner are aluminum that will be glass bead blasted, that leaves the water pump that is aluminum (may paint it) and the front cover that I was going to paint blue until a friend gave me a aluminum Shelby timing cover a couple weeks ago, it's not polished but it's shinny and new (paint it or not???).

 

Thanks Destroked. I like the idea of painting the water pump aluminum colored. I have a timing cover that has been polished, so I'm not planning on painting.

I'm glad I'm taking my time. I found that the shop I used forgot to install the oil galley plug at the front of the block, 12 O' clock, above the cam.

I did the oiler holes on the three mains today, came out good. I was surprised how easy it was. Washed the block today as well, re-installed the oil galley plugs, and oiled up the machined surfaces...block is clean and finally starting the assembly process. Looking to paint the block tomorrow, hope to get the cam and crank in Monday.

 

Wow they left the main oil galley plug out, better good things over real good, taking you time and doing it right is the best way to do a rebuild.

Don't know when I'll get back on my 406 build, everything is boxed up on a shelf waiting. I'm working on a 12 valve Cummins build to replace the one in my F-450 that's using oil. Have two tractors waiting on clutch replacements and a 5 ton needing the litter bed mounting finished and hyd plumbed.

 

Didn't like the paint first going on, but after drying it's starting to grow on me...





Just got the cam in and checked the end play, everything is A-ok.

Any preferences to the old one piece versus two piece eccentirc? Summit sells a decent "hardware" kit, but I was surprised it came with a pin that doesn't work with the two piece eccentric. The old one piece I have looks to be in good shape. I assume the thick washer is to make up for the thickness between the two style eccentrics?

 

The newer two piece is suppose the cut down on friction some to help reduce wear on the fuel pump arm, may be a good thing with todays oil but I've only seen a couple of worn out pump arms over the years.
I'm guessing the two piece is thinner and the pin sticks out to far, just cut or grind a little off the end of the pin, this was always a problem with after market pins.

Was looking at your pics, block looks good but what I really noticed is leaves on the trees, green grass and the garage door open. It's 6* here and colder than heck, no painting going to happen at my place for a while, cost to much to heat the shop in this weather. Where are you located, how bout shipping me a couple boxes of that warm weather. ha ha

 

Thanks Destroked. I think I'll stick with the one piece eccentric. I'm in California, bay area. It' doesn't get too cold here, never 6*...been raining a lot lately.

Well, I've had two problems come up. I was cleaning the crank up and getting ready to slip in the bearings to check clearances when my eye caught two things I wish I hadn't. I found a small gouge on one of the rod throws of the crank. Talked to the shop that last touched it and of course they denied seeing or doing it. Odd part is that there is no raised section. I ran a bearing over the gouge and it doesn't mark it. So, I think I'm OK- looks like the re-grind on the crank didn't clean it up completely. So much for second hand cranks.

Bigger issue for me is that I found a casting pit (size of a broken pencil lead) in one of the cylinder walls about mid way through travel distance. It isn't through to the water jacket, but the fact that the shop never caught it has me concerned. I've read a few threads and some say the shop should make it write / sleeve? others mention its a fact of life with old castings and it shouldn't be an issue. I'm really bothered to stop assembly and wait for word back from the shop. I sent the shop pics. I have another block, but to go through this again....and at what cost?? ERRR.

 

I've see gouges from where the rod bolt hit the crank when the piston was knocked out of the block, never had a problem with it as long as nothing sticks up to catch the bearing. I wouldn't worry about it.


Broken pencil lead, short, long or just a small dot?
If the pit isn't very big or leaking it should be ok. See what the shop says and is willing to do and ask them if they have a way to pressure test the block. Most 390 blocks are .175 thick or thicker so as long as the pit isn't very deep you'll be ok. If they say it'll need a sleeve you'll have to pay for it because they have no control over casting flaws, but yes I would have felt better if they had pointed it out rather than finding it myself. It makes you question the quality of their work even if they have a good rep,and that's not a good feeling no mater if it's your first overhaul or hundredth.

 

Here are a couple pics....