Slow going update and a question:

Started cleaning up the old PS brackets and hardware.

Headers are pretty. The Sanderson's come with bolts, but they're not stainless. I opted to buy some sexy ARP bolts. Yet, I'm strongly leaning toward putting the stock logs on for break in- I think.

Oil: decided to finally check out the new Lokar dipstick. Recall, I'm running the 391 oil pan, plugged the pan opening and using the stuck stick location next to the filter adapter. Well, I started putting the first quart in- and realized I forgot to install the pan plug- doh! Started over again and added 7 quarts. Oil is not reaching the stick at all. I'm not sure if this has anything do with the motor still on the stand or not. I did spin up the oil pump with a drill and noted I was getting oil up to the rockers. Part of me is thinking I should continue adding oil until I get oil to register. I haven't double checked, but my understanding is that the 391 pan holds 8 quarts. So, after spinning up the pump, and probably filled the filter, I'm thinking a couple more quarts, but that should be it? Just seemed odd after 7 quarts, before spinning the pump, oil wasn't even making contact with the stick.

Things still left to go: need to shorten the fuel line about 3 inches (going with a stainless flex line), finish paint work on the PS bracket, waiting on new PS pump to install pulley, need to clean up the old alternator, need to size the plug wires, finish figuring out what port, if any, I can use off the CARB for the PCV, and need to raid a few more fittings for the heater core return hose and vacuum port fitting for the brakes and tranny.

I should be pulling the front clip Memorial Day weekend. I'm looking at cleaning up the firewall and wiring- so, it's still going to be a while before I FINALLY get a chance to light her up as I have the tranny to clean up and get the electric fan mounted up.

 

It's been a few years but I'm thinking 8 qts in the pan plus one in the filter. With the filter filled you should have 6 in the pan so add another to see if it puts it on the add mark, if not your going to need to remark the stick or get a different one. I wouldn't put more than 8 in the pan, I know for sure it wasn't a 10 qt system. It is possible that even though the truck pans held more oil it was at a lower level in the pan, IDK I've never put 4 qts in a car or pickup pan and 8 qts in a truck pan and measured up to the pan rail to see if they where the same.


I'm guessing you want to use the old manifolds so you can connect to the present exhaust to get it running without having to make new exhaust first?


Edit: reread 7 in the pan an not showing before you spun it, looks like you need a longer stick. You can go ahead and top it off with a total of 9 and is if it shows, but you wont know when it gets a qt low because it will be off the stick first.

 

Yeah, I'll try a couple more quarts and watch what registers. I did double check to make sure the Lokar cable housing was all the way in.

Yes, thinking about leaving the stock logs on because they will bolt up to the rest of the exhaust. The Sanderson's exit straight downward, I'm hesitant about what they might melt / heat up directly below- especially just sitting at 2,000 RPM for 20 minutes. Question is how much of a PITA will it be to swap out the manifolds for the headers? It looks quite tight on the driver's side.

 

It's a little tight but nothing like an FE in a Mustang CJ with 3 bolts per flange (been there done that and it was a real pain), put some anti seize on the bolts so they'll come out easy when your ready to add the headers.

 

I'm still on the fence about the exhaust, been waiting to get the last of the accessories installed so I can snap a few photos with her clean on the stand. I'll then see if I'm going to go stock logs or not for the burn in.

Oil update: I added some more. After the first additional quart, 8 at this point, oil began registering at the very bottom of the stick. I added another 1/2 quart and called it good until I get the motor bolted into the truck. One trick I found that helps, with the Lokar stick is to spin it in the housing a couple of times. I don't know why, maybe years sitting in packaging, but the cable style stick tends to curve slightly toward the end.

I sized the plug wires today and triple checked my dizzy install. One item that proved priceless was a little MSD "mini" trimmer / crimper. It worked very well.

Got the fuel line trimmed about three inches. Cleaned up the old alternator and gave it a quick shot of paint while giving the PS brackets and pulley a few coats. Not to fond of painting the alternator, but it was in really tough looking shape. It's one of the few original items I haven't replaced. Hopefully, the purple power and pressure wash before painting didn't kill it. I also sealed down the valve covers.

My last few items: install the alternator, install the PS pulley and put the PS pump assy and brackets together. Tighten up the fuel line. Do some minor looming of the plug wires with cable ties. Still need finalize the PCV source. I'm also in the midst of figuring out fittings for the intake. I think I'm sold on using the vacuum block that is on my current 360. It has a large port for the brake booster and a small one for the tranny. I'll hold on removing and installing until I get the old motor out. Heater core return nipple: the one on my 360 has a PVS for the EGR, which is useless and ugly to me. The fitting that was on an old 390 that I disassembled is fairly rotted. Interesting though, it has an outlet tube that sticks into the water cavity of the intake about 1/2 the depth (rather than just a fitting at the top of the intake). The 391 has what looks like a custom bushing, a 45 elbow, and a nipple off the 45. None of these looks all that great. I haven't searched, but are these readily available or am I looking at building a custom piece from new brass fittings? Ideas?

One last detail that I'm realizing I'll need to study and ensure I have the right stuff is the throttle linkage and tranny kickdown. I haven't looked hard at the new Holley, but have realized I need to take some photos of the existing off the 2 barrel before I unhook anything.

Seems like miles away, but will most likely be around the 4 of July when I think I'll have everything back together to light it up. I plan on doing some engine bay clean up.

Should have photos of the finished motor assembly posted next weekend.

 

Do you have the old dipstick to compare the length to the new one? Is the tube from the old engine?

 

I have the old tube and stick that came from the 391, but the I managed to break off the end of the stick (pull) when I was transporting it last year. I've blocked off the "receiver hole" for the sitck in pan and opted to go the normal position on the driver's side, up front next to the filter.

I could try yanking the stock stick out of my 360 and comparing lengths. I wish I had taken a reference measurement from the tip of the old stock style to the outside edge of the block. From what I've read the fill level to be concerned about is oil height relative to the top of pan or bottom of block, whichever you prefer to reference.

There doesn't seem to be much out there in terms of information for someone that has swapped the 391 pan on and used forward stick, let alone a Lokar one.

Figured out my vacuum ports. The Holley has a nice fat port for the PCV at the back, another full vacuum port that is smaller for the tranny, and I can use the intake runner port for the brake booster.

I also searched the net night and found some sources for "heater hose fittings." I think I'll pick up a couple, one for the heater hose and one for the brake booster. Should stay relatively clean looking.

 

Exactly, the idea is the oil level shouldn't ever get high enough to get whipped up by the crank as it spins.

Leaving some sloshing around for braking/acceleration, it should be low enough it won't come in contact with the crankshaft.

Does your 360 has the dipstick tube in the same location in the block?

 

Yeah, the 360 has the stick up front next to the filter. I probably pull it, once I pull the motor and test fit it into the new motor.

Saw a really nice looking, award winning 428 CJ in a '69 Mustang today. Was cherry, with the CVF belt kit- shiny alternator, Edelbrock water pump, Edelbrock heads...yet, I was thrown back that the timing cover was old school Ford Blue, the stock oil dipstick, and not much for a dizzy or wiring loom. Interesting where different personalities focus attention. Yet, I'll have to admit, it was tight in the mustang- nothing I'd ever want to work on. The owner mentioned that one side of the headers wouldn't drop in with the motor, had to be installed from below. He did get me into talking about expansion tanks.

Are these a normal / required thing on FE's? My truck has one of those cheap aftermarket plastic over flow ones and I do recall the radiator cap would spew every once in a while to the over flow. I was thinking of getting rid of the sightly thing, but now I'm thinking I'll need to address? Never needed for my old 300-6.

 

Measure the 360 tube from the block to the end and compare it to the Lokar tube, also compare the sticks.


I had a 69 Mach1 with 428CJ auto and one with 428SCJ 4spd back in the 70's, you had to lay the headers in place then install the engine or have it on a lift and raise the engine up one side at a time. It was also better to have the valve covers and rockers off to raise the engine higher without bending the valve covers.
You wanted to have a good starter, with the Hooker headers I used it took an act of congress to change starters.

 

I know in the pickup trucks, the top radiator tank IS the "expansion tank".

Never having worked on an FE in a car, but did work on my mother's '65 Fairlane wagon with a 289, the top of the tank was the expansion tank as well.

In a radiator that has no expansion tank, and a top/bottom flow pattern (not side-to-side), the coolant should just cover the top of the tubes inside the top tank. It should NOT be filled to the top.

 

Some photos to share....

 

Looks really nice, I like the headers, first time I've seen a set bolted to the engine, looks like they hug in close to the block an have good access to the starter.
A cable clamp around the fuel hose bolted to the empty hole in the head and I'd call it complete.

Nice job!

 

Thanks Destroked.
Yes, the headers really do hug the block. They come straight down, so they should absolutely clear everything in the engine bay. It will be trick tightening the bolts behind the runners that are closest to the block.

From the exterior the only things re-used from the 391 are the block and pan. The pullies and brackets are off my existing 360. The alternator is one of the few items on the exterior that aren't new. I cringed at painting it, but it was nasty...and it's paint job reflects that. The Cal-Custom valve covers are off the 390 I had. I re-used the heater core hose fitting in the water pump, hopefully it will last. I ended up buying new fittings for the return into the intake and the full vacuum port for the brake booster. Quite spendy for stainless fittings.

Once I get this thing fired up I'll have to post a build sheet.

Wish I could have thrown some extra money at nice shiny accessory items, but that seemed like a bit of an expense.

Will most likely strip a lot off once I get to bolting the tranny up and installing the assembly.

Next steps: massive cleaning effort in my garage to get the front clip off. Only to be followed by cleaning up the engine bay and wiring. I'll be starting a new thread in the '73-'79 forum for this next step. Almost forgot, I picked up some black cable ties to clean up the plug wires from around the covers to the top of the dizzy, rather than using the cheapo plastic jobs you seen in the pic. Will most likely wait until she actually fires up though.

I'll be back to post pics of the new motor getting installed....will be a few weeks, at best.

 

Shiny accessories are nice but there's an old saying that I use when cash is limited on a project (Chrome don't get you home, what the chrome goes on is where the money needs to go) Shiny stuff doesn't help a bad engine run any better, it just makes it look good.


Yours looks good as it is, you can throw a shiny alternator on it some other time.