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Mostly because of it's weight rating. I would also think, generally, the higher the weight rating the better. Mostly because when you are loading your spring bars, you jack up the back of the tow vehicle to some extent, to connect the bars. The back of my tow vehicle is heavy.
I went ahead and ordered this jack yesterday. Can't install till spring, but I will give an update with my thoughts on it when I do. Price came down to $200.... which good enough to make me jump on it.
Well, the Husky 4500lb electric tongue jack is here. Can't install till the trailer comes out of winter hibernation..... but gives me something to look forward to.
Oh, yeah, this is on my to do list. I'm really getting tired of lowering, hooking, raising, rigging, lowering again...all with the ol' hand jack. $80 sounds like a deal for sure!
IMASAP, how did the install go? I've connected/disconnected my trailer once and that's enough of the hand powered jack for me.
What is involved with connecting the jack to power?
One other question: How do you determine which weight rating to use? My tongue weight according to my scale was 1,300 lbs (dry). This is on a toy hauler with zero cargo.
IMASAP, how did the install go? I've connected/disconnected my trailer once and that's enough of the hand powered jack for me.
What is involved with connecting the jack to power?
One other question: How do you determine which weight rating to use? My tongue weight according to my scale was 1,300 lbs (dry). This is on a toy hauler with zero cargo.
My HFT special was really simple. It uses the 3 screws that hold the jack to the A frame. There is one wire that requires a crimp to the power supply AKA the battery. The bolts act as the ground.
IMASAP, how did the install go? I've connected/disconnected my trailer once and that's enough of the hand powered jack for me.
What is involved with connecting the jack to power?
One other question: How do you determine which weight rating to use? My tongue weight according to my scale was 1,300 lbs (dry). This is on a toy hauler with zero cargo.
3500 pounds is pretty standard. You don't want to go any less than that because you do regularly lift the weight of the tongue and the truck bed enough to release the spring bars on the hitch.
the nicer ones I have seen .. have a 7 pin connector already on the jack..
Yes on the 3,500 pound model.. there is like 20 dollars or so difference between a 2,000 and a 3,500.
A Husky is not in my budget (YET).. waiting for Harbor Fright to put on a Big Sale.
but my 12 year old manual jack is getting flaky, I cleaned and re-greased it again .. for more service.
Although not pulling a travel trailer now, a tongue jack has always been on my short list of "must-haves" for our trailers in the past. Good advice on capacity!
Anyone have clearance problems with the drive motor housing hitting the tailgate when you try to lower the gate. All the pics look like the motor is on the hitch side. My hand crank will just clear the gate if it's in the up position.
Anyone have clearance problems with the drive motor housing hitting the tailgate when you try to lower the gate. All the pics look like the motor is on the hitch side. My hand crank will just clear the gate if it's in the up position.
it is one of those things...
my hand crank hits my tailgate.. so the tailgate stays Up...
but if you have room between the trailer body, propane tanks or battery.. you can rotate the motor/shaft 120 degrees one way or the other...
NO rule it has to Face Straight forward.
My HFT special was really simple. It uses the 3 screws that hold the jack to the A frame. There is one wire that requires a crimp to the power supply AKA the battery. The bolts act as the ground.
And what about a standard enclosed trailer which does not have it` own battery like the TTs?
Just connect it somehow to the light wires or what?
3500lbs rated should be fine for a 20' long, 10k max twin axle enclosed trailer right?
And what about a standard enclosed trailer which does not have it` own battery like the TTs?
Just connect it somehow to the light wires or what?
3500lbs rated should be fine for a 20' long, 10k max twin axle enclosed trailer right?
IF and I say IF your truck has the trailer 7 PIN connector.. use the battery feed wire to power the jack. as the 7 pin is wired (designed) to charge a trailer battery if one is there.
the light circuit is not large .. so limited in power.
IF and I say IF your truck has the trailer 7 PIN connector.. use the battery feed wire to power the jack. as the 7 pin is wired (designed) to charge a trailer battery if one is there.
the light circuit is not large .. so limited in power.
I will buy a new F250 next year, so there will be 7 pin + 4 pin as well for sure.
I guess, the Ford manual will tell me which wires to use for the TT battery, my case the electric jack. Thank you!
Anyone can answer this maybe:
3500lbs rated should be fine for a 20' long, 10k max twin axle enclosed trailer right?
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