I actually looked for an internal one but just settled for using a ceramic inline resistor. Thanks to the fine folks on here who reminded me of that. Boy did that mystery oil I put down the spark plugs smoke like everyone promised it would! Lol

 

Hey Pezsox
Welcome Aboard! That's a nice looking truck!

What was the big iron looking thing sticking up in the bed by the cab?

We've got a 1950 F1 - I will be interested to hear what you think of stock 4 wheel drum brakes.

We also changed out the rear end to get friendly gearing so we could go highway speeds - 8.8 in axle with 3.73 gearing & disc brakes.

You may want to spend some time on the steering as well. Our's just floated all over the road. We took the opportunity to move to power steering - ahh much better.

Good luck over there in Washington! Nice to see another old F1
get saved. People would pay a lot of money to get that beautiful patina.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

The thing in the bed was some sort of tire carrier I believe. I have a lot of work o work to do on the bed. At this point I am kind of stuck between plans. I want to use the original engine, which makes me use the original transmission, driveline, and rear end. I kind of feel like if I have all that original I should just keep it all orign (except 12v) I was going jag front end, explorer rear end, lowered but now I'm not sure.

 

Nice!!! Looking forward to seeing all it come together as you go...

mike

 

Hi Pezsox,
It's not a bad idea to kick around your plan up front - before starting.
Our '50 F1 has a Mustang II IFS, 351W with an AOD transmission, & the Explorer 8.8 in. rear axle. (400 HP, 4 wheel disc brakes, Overdrive transmission, power steering, Independent front suspension).

Pros:
o Modern Brakes - I like 4 wheel disc brakes. It stops like a modern truck & you don't have to fiddle with adjusting the drums, etc. We also switched to a Dual Chamber Master Cylinder so the brakes don't all go out at once. (My 24 year old son has already tested that feature).

o Power Steering - I like power steering. Once again it's the modern truck feel - much nicer than stock.

o 3.73 Rear Gearing - It's nice to be able to go highway speeds. We live in Austin - a town of 1.5 million people. Our reality is that we need to be able to drive on crowded urban roads in traffic. Putting in the 8.8 rear end was a 2 weekend project at most - so pretty straight forward with good upside.

Cons:
o The conversion from stock front end to modern IFS is major surgery involving cutting into & welding on your frame. It took months of down time. I'm not sure it's worth it - I'd be inclined to rebuild the stock front end & not tear everything out - just add Toyota power steering & a disc brake kit.

o 400 HP 351W - It was a waste of money to put this kind of horsepower into an old truck. A stock 290/302/351W would work just fine. Í like your plan to use the existing engine since it's running. I don't feel comfortable going over 65mph - too many odd noises, creaks, & groans - just cruising.

The one tricky one is the AOD transmission - I like having Overdrive & cruising comfortably on the highway in Overdrive. I'm not sure the capability of your current transmission for cruising. Setting up an AOD is major effort to get the shift points right - lot's of cursing - torture until you finally get it.

Good Luck over there in Washington.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Restore it as best you can and DRIVE it. You've got plenty of time to make changes if you so desire.

 

I agree with jim,get your title put in your name check your vin # on the frame and make sure that it matches your title

 

well I just got back from taking my engine to a pretty respectable engine builder in town and got a pretty big sticker shock. The dipped, cleaned, and magged my engine and everything looks really solid, so that is the good news. Now the bad news... If I want a complete overhaul, it is looking like $2000-$3000 for a complete job. I was really hoping it might be less, but then again I am very new to this game. If I didn't want new pistons or a bore I could save $500 or so. I am still torn if I should spend that much for a 95hp engine, when I could get a crate motor for that. I guess to have a complete, stock, numbers matching engine and truck, would it matter in the long run if I decide to sell it?

 

Well to rebuild my v8 we got quoted in that ballpark. I decided it was worth it because I wanted the truck original and the flathead only seemed right for the truck's personality. Plus my dad is in love with flatheads. But that's me.
I'm sure you will get the responses it's your truck build it how you want it and I agree. It's up to you how far you wanna go with keeping it stock. Or you could always search around for another flathead. As far as affecting the price I'm not sure...

Sam

 

Don't forget, when comparing costs that any other engine will mean a new trans, frame mods, rear axle mods almost certainly. To use that increase in power means brake, suspension, and wheel/tire upgrades. So it's really: do you want to put $2500 into the stock truck, or put $10K - $15K (or more) into the truck? Going fast is overrated IMO

 

I agree with you Albuq. I am hoping to find a rebuild kit for this 226-flathead 6. Does anyone have a kit# or a recommendation on a source for rebuild parts. The person who I have had look at it would need to source the parts, but I definitely trust this group and their opinions before his! Lol

 

You can get a Chevy 350 crate motor for $1500 but you will easily spend another $1500 for a starter, carburetor, radiator, fuel pump, and miscellaneous items. You will also spend between $500 - $1000 for a transmission.

So, it's a toss up which way to go. The 350 chevy fits nice with the Jag ifs.

That's the way I went.

Good luck

Dan

 

Well my worst fears...Just got the transmission taken apart by a very qualified group and it has numerous issues. He said I need a new countershaft, 1st and Reverse, Reverse idler, bearings, seals, synchro, tkit, changeover kit, and all that priced out with labor is $1200-$1500. So now that makes me rethink rebuilding this Flathead 226, using the original transmission, original rearend, drum brakes... damn it. Anyone have any ideas on either a good place to find some of these parts or is it best to cut my losses now on the "back to original" plan?

 

What trans do you have? Is it a 3-sp or 4-sp? You could get a clean, functional 3-sp for maybe as little as $50, or as much as $250. Was there a problem driving with your trans? Popping out of gear, etc?

 

I never did get to drive it before I pulled the engine out of it. I was able to shift it into neutral so I could push it on the trailer, and that is all I knew about it. It was awafully hard to find neutral haha. He had told me he got a few quotes on new part from the East coast, but he didn't look for anything else, and that I could do that if I so chose. it is the stock 3 spd light duty transmission.