Shaneb75

Sent you a PM

 

on an '04 Hot no start with audible air leaks you are definitely looking at Nipple Cup and Top Injector seals. You could Bulletproof the nipple cups if you wanted to.

 

I would not totally agree with you on this.
Bear in mind I am by NO means an expert on the subject but want to share what I ran into on my 03 after testing the drivers side oil rail directly with shop air.
I did this just as a double check, don't ask me why since I new the HPOP was bad after testing it at the IPR and commanding it open and closed.
So...........after having around 120 psi on the oil rail after ten minutes I was sure it was all good, and when getting ready to take things apart, heard a faint hiss.
Great I thought now what. So, after replacing the top injector seals on that side did the test again, same result only it leaked after 2 minutes! Ok, at this point I thought crap, might as well to the nipple cut seals, so had a reputable shop well versed on the 6.0 replace them, stuck her back together and same thing, only now it leaked right after putting air to the rail.
I was about to bang my head against the engine block and in desperation sent an email to Sean. After chatting with him on the phone, he told me of once instance he remembered this happening. The logic here is that after so much air being applied to the rail, it was eventually just displacing the oil with air, so at some point you are going to have a leak if there is no oil there. I would add to this that it was not as bad a leak on every injector, but it makes sense that after having the rail off three times and putting air to it that many times it will leak at some point.
Maybe this makes sense, maybe not, but long story short I can't say I have noticed any ill effects after putting it back together.

 

They always leak until fully pressurized for the first time. It takes that 2000+ PSI to give the nipples their final, settled resting point and compress the O-rings. We always say to go out and run all the air out of the rails then retest.

 

Well that does make sense if approached from that angle.
My top seals looked ok to me, but at that point I just figured what the heck, it's not that much more money to do the top seals and rail seals after having it torn down.
I would also add that each time I had the oil rail off, that much more oil leaked out of the holes so that certainly add to the quicker times it took for air to start to hiss.

 

OK we are back. After having to go to St Louis for a funeral, we got with shaneb75 Friday afternoon and started back on this hot no start. Shane graciously loaned me his garage full of spare parts for his upcoming rebuild.

This is what we found. IPR air pressure check located a leak on the number 2 injector. We replaced the oring, dummy plug, and standpipe on drivers side. installed the oil rail, primed tghe rail and air checked again. No leaks. Put it all back together again and it started (cold) waited till it was at 182 and stut down and it restarted. Cool beans.

I thank Shane and his brother and start home, 4 miles later it dies. Shane comes to my rescue and we get the truck home this morning at 2:30 AM.

At 7:30AM I'm out thinking maybe the IPR valve got something in it we missed. Pull the valve its clean. Clean the screen, reinstall, break the degas bottle (dropped it) run to O rileys, replace the bottle and it fires up. Cool beans.

I decide to shut it down and restart at less than 100 F no start. OK I have forscan on a laptop and an ELM lets read codes.

P0113, P0677, P1000, P2285, U0105, U0306, P2252

While cranking I have FICM sync 1, FICM voltage 49.0, ICP voltage starts at .25 and goes up as cranking, ICP pressure shows 1200 PSI cranking, IPR is commanded to 84%


What the TRUCK? It hates me.

Where do we start now before the rain and my shoulder surgery?

Help and sorry for the long post and really THANKS to Shaneb75

 

Sharn,

Give this a look over. I would suggest looking for wire chaffing or a broken wire.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...re_chafing.pdf

 

Found a chafe spot at battery tray that had cut a wire, it was barely touching I figure that was some of the odd codes that showed up.

Also creator was right about nipple cups. Pulled the driver side valve cover, put air to the ICP and oil starts leaking from the number 2 injector, the one we replaced the top o ring in, oil had cut the new o ring in half.

So the o rings and tool from HHC diesel are on order. Hope to get them monday. And I hope thats all for the rest of the year.

 

Good news, the tool and o rings from HHC came in Friday afternoon. A call to Mark at HHC about the lack of an obvious failure of the nipple cup o ring led to him suggesting that I look up a video about polishing the nipple cup that fits into the injector.

So I polished all 4 tips, replaced the nipple cup o rings and replaced the o rings and crush washers on all 4 injectors on the drivers side, and as of this afternoon its running well.

I'd like to thank Shaneb75. Mark at HHC, and the rest of you for helping figure this one out.

 

Hey glad the truck is back on the road and glad we were able to get you back going. If you need us for anything else give us a call.

 

I didn't do a thing! Glad you got it going, tho I don't understand the injector o-ring getting shredded so quickly?

Never the less, good job! Now if my upcoming work can only end in success!

 

Shane

There were some very fine scratchs on the nipple of number 2 that I think caused the failure. They look like the snap ring may have caught on it as the oil rail was installed. At least thats what I'm calling it.

 

I'm working on a 2000 f550 7.3 truck was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start I can use some help here thanks in advance.

 

You should have posted this in the 7.3 forum......maybe a Mod can move it for you.

 

If the IPR screen is plugged or damaged, the intake screen for the HPOP is probably damaged also. If your taking stuff apart I would check it out too, if its torn your new IPR will fail soon. its under the oil filter mount in the sump with the oil cooler. would also give you the opportunity it inspect the oil cooler. might give some insight on your cooling issue, I would expect something is clogged/restricted or the fan is not operating properly.