I agree with Matt, idiots need to be run over!



Ok, try the adjustment but really need to take your time with this. 1/4 turn at a time NO more. I tried the RedHead, it was crap from the start and totally failed in under 3k miles for me. I now sport an OEM and I'm very happy with it.

 

The V codes give a really nice controlled ride- the big improvement comes from the fact that you're not bottoming out on every crack in the pavement!
A couple inches more travel makes a huge difference in the comfort and safety in an Excursion. If you've ever hit railroad tracks going diagonally across the road and had the vehicle feel like someone detonated an IED underneath, you'll know what I mean!
Tightening your steering box is a good, cheap try before you pop for a replacement box.
FWIW, about 45 of us on this site just upgraded to Red Head steering boxes, and there was one that was a problem; the majority have been supremely happy! Good luck and keep us informed.

 

I had a terrible experience with two Red Heads back to back on my 250, both similar to Michael's issues. My preference is stock from now on, but to each their own. Everybody else seems to have had good luck with RH boxes.

 

I understand. I drove over some big dips on a highway which sent my Ex almost airborne, but they were smooth whoops, not a log on the road type. (if that makes sense). I was expecting to slam down hard and bottom out, but it was the exact opposite, it just floated down nice and smooth. I think its cause the shocks actually had a chance to do their job with a full stroke of the suspension.

Its the smaller, sudden bumps that I really feel, most likely bottoming out on that initial hit. I think you are all correct that an extra couple inches of suspension travel should give drastic results.

 

Another possible source of your frontend wander could be worn spring eye bushings, they will allow the springs to deflect too much side to side (and end to end out of sync inducing unwanted directional changes). Swapping up to V codes will fix that of course.
You mentioned earlier about all EXs having the same front springs regardless of engine from the factory, they didn't. PSDs got the D codes at 4700 lbs(per pair), the V-10 had C codes at 4300 lbs (per pair) and the 5.4 V-8 had B codes at 4100 lbs (per pair). They all had nearly the same ride height due to the heavier diesels.

And I agree with the above guys that V codes will improve your ride with a more controlled and smoother suspension travel without bottoming out on those bumpstops.

This is a chart that shows the various springs and the ride height changes when swapped under an EX, I see that some of your numbers are a little different, makes me curious........ The ride height changes listed have been shown to be pretty accurate from member's spring swaps here.

This is my Spring cheat sheet complied from various posts here on FTE mostly from old posts by bruce1954 and Monsta.

The following only applies to 4X4 EXs, the 2X4 rigs have coil springs up front. All EXs came from Ford with G code rear springs, the V-8 EXs all came with B (front B code is much different than rear B code, confused yet?) 4100lb, all V-10 EXs came with C code fronts at 4300lb and all PSD EXs had D codes at 4700lbs.
All the other codes discussed come from SuperDuty trucks (they came with springs that don't suck from Ford.)
Spring........Capacity.....Rate lbs/".....Max travel.....V-10 change.....PSD change
B (V-8)......4100lbs.......330 lb/".........5.02"...........-0.25".............-0.66"
C (V-10)....4300lbs.......350 lb/".........5.01".............0.00"............-0.37"
D (PSD).....4700lbs.......380 lb/".........5.14"...........+0.33".............0 .00"
S codes.....4000lbs.......370 lb/".........4.34"...........+1.22"............+0 .88"
T codes.....4400lbs.......390 lb/".........4.63"...........+1.42"............+1 .11"
U codes.....4800lbs.......410 lb/".........4.89"...........+1.60"............+1 .32"
V codes.....5200lbs.......430 lb/".........5.13"...........+1.77'............+1 .50"
W codes....5600lbs.......450 lb/".........5.34"...........+2.77'............+2 .52"
X codes.....6000lbs.......470 lb/".........5.54"...........+2.90"...........+2. 68"
W codes are from F-450s and X codes are from F-550s and other SD trucks with snow plow prep.

The above spring info has been gathered from posts here on FTE by "monsta" and "bruce1954".

 

thanks for the info!

The spring rates I found were from an aftermarket spring supplier... maybe it was per leaf if there are 2 in the front pack? Dunno. But yeah my spring code is DG.

 

Glad to help!
Was that superdutysprings by any chance? They have been shown here to offer springs identified by the code letter that DO NOT meet that factory spec.
All Super Duty and EX front springs only had 2 leaves in the front packs.

 

I think it was SD springs, Im not buying from there, just wanted a reference point. Between shipping, exchange and import fees basically everything on their site is 2x the price into Canada.

Free trade my a$$

It will be the wrecker for me.

 

Nothing wrong with used springs, Mine were used take-offs.
Just try to find the lowest mileage ones available and be sure to verify from the door sticker exactly what code they are.

 

Don't forget, V codes are one of the OEM springs Ford put on the 4x4 F-series trucks from the factory. The only reason Ford didn't do the same for the Ex is because they mistakenly thought their target demographic for sales would be soccer moms, so Ford made the Ex suspension sit lower and have a different spring rate, trying to make it ride more like a car.

It's just my subjective opinion, but Ford failed miserably when it came to the Excursion 4x4 suspension.

Stewart

 

Im no expert and I have shook my head many times at some the stuff they did. Makes no sense. "The trucks rode pretty good, so lets create something way too light and see what happens..." Like what engineer was working on that project hey?

Lack of availability made me go with my original idea of U-codes. Got some for a great deal. Found some V-codes, but were seriously overpriced for their condition. I am going to measure bump stop clearance before and after. Not sure when I'll get around to it but I'll post my results.

Also swapping out rear Ex bumpstops for the SD bumpstops, trying to gain a little suspension travel before it bottoms out. Any other methods for getting a bit more suspension travel without slamming the bumpstop in the rear? Slightly taller spring shackle? Not really considering stiffer leafs because I find the ride decent enough, I have Landyot rods and rarely ever tow. Even when I do tow its an aluminum tilt deck for sleds, and it is barely noticeably even when we towed with the minivan.

thanks lots of good info here from everyone.

 

For the rear bumpstops, are you talking about the actual spring pack bumpstop mounted on the frame or the traction bar snubber mounted on the bottom front half only half leaf on the spring pack?

And not meaning to be a jerk but......... How happy are you with the rear suspension's ride that bottoms out too frequently?

 

in hind sight I would have gone with the x codes over the v codes with the aftermarket bumper and now putting a plow on. Either way the ride is pbetter than the worn out original springs hitting the bump stops all the time.

 

talking about the springpack bumpstop, yes.

As for the ride, I see your point. I am "almost" happy with the way it rides, mostly on highway driving. Front is too soft and I am addressing that. Rear is pretty good for my needs, just want a little more suspension travel before it cracks the bumpstop.

More inspection shows I have ripped rubber and grease coming out of the front swaybar links, (although they are tight still )I can slide the rear swaybar back and forth with one hand (although links are good) and I have a rattle in the tierod ends when you turn the wheel back and forth. Although you cant really see anything loose in the tierod end itself, so not sure if that is worn tierod ends or not, or if there is something else in the steering linkage that is shot.

Here is some pics of my bumpstop clearance

 

Also tightened the steering gearbox today, wow that was easier than I thought. Pop the air filter box out and voila its right there. Had to pull off 1 small fan shroud that seemed to be completely useless.

I went just less than 1/2 turn and that really seemed to make a difference. Ill drive it tonight and see.

As you can see from my pics I have about 5/8" clearance on the front! pathetic. I could lay under it and push the front up an inch.. These leafs are totally sacked out. they are starting to separate from each other too (top leaf is shifting sideways). Leaf bushings are pretty soft and cracked up. Rear - about 1 7/8" to the stop, Ill measure again after I put in the SD bumpstops. After a closer closer look, going to put off the front swaybar links, the rubber is starting to rip but they are still tight as hell.

getting the leafs and new u-bolts/nuts done this week. (4 u-bolts made up at a local shop for $30 cdn including nuts!) Got a Prothane track bar bushing set just incase we see it worn when its on the hoist. Was cheap to buy, if I dont need it'll sit on the shelf til I do need it.

really looking forward to driving this thing with the squirrely feel gone.