With Gary's information (thanks) I was able to adjust the choke properly (hopefully). I was also able to adjust the bi-metal spring assembly to where I think it should be. I threw the choke spring assembly into the freezer and then set the closed position based on the location of the cold spring.

Also, I thought it would be fun to watch the choke in action, so I put the entire carburetor in the freezer for a half hour to get the choke cold and then I set it on the counter under my iPhone and did a time lapse:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/mak1979/ta6JSM

It's pretty fun to watch, I tried to put a bowl of boiling water under the choke to see if I could get it to open more, but it didn't work. I think that is a pretty good starting point, at room temperature it is only partially closed, when it is up to full temp it should be fully open. I may have to adjust more, but I'll have to make the adjustment when I have it on the truck. I'm wondering if I should set it to the fully closed position at room temperature?

Take care everyone,

-Matt

 

That's an interesting approach. I wouldn't have thought of that.

As for adjusting the choke, I thought the factory instructions showed how to do that - but they don't. Strange. I've always adjusted them at room temp and used a drill bit to set them, which was what I thought the factory instructions were showing. But, that's for the de-choke adjustment with your foot on the floor. So, do your other instructions give choke setting instructions?

 

Gary,

Yes, the instructions included with the kit are the same as the manual you provided. The choke is set on the last 'cam' setting before the "high step". I believe the butterfly to air horn measurement is 5/32", but I could be wrong on the distance. When it is on the "high step" it is fully closed, that is why I was wondering if something was amiss with my cam setting. I recall that the dechoke setting (at WOT) was a much larger gap, but I don't recall the distance off the top of my head. When I get home I'll take a shot of the instructions. From what I gather, setting the bi-metal spring adjustment is mostly based on feel.

On my original truck's YFA, I had trouble with the choke from time to time. We rebuilt the carburetor around '96, and the choke worked fine for a few years. As time went on, the truck would start fine cold and warm up nicely. However, when restarting hot, if I even looked at the throttle it would flood. I think that the choke housing may have been out of adjustment. Regardless, we put on a new carburetor and it worked fine after that until dad got rid of the truck in 2002.

So to answer your question, when the throttle is set on the "high step" there appears to be no adjustment needed on the choke (fully closed), I'm guessing that the vacuum induced from the engine running at a higher RPM opens the choke butterfly enough to overcome the bimetal spring and keep the engine running. Whether or not I'm correct remains to be seen. Once I get it running I'll do some experimenting to see what happens.

-Matt

 

Great progress so far!

 

I'm taking a quick break at work and thought I would update everyone on the progress that I made this weekend.

On Friday, I stopped in the local muffler shop and had them make me a 2.5" straight pipe with a 90 degree bend about 6 feet long. So Saturday was spent working on the exhaust. First thing I had to work on was eliminating the first catalytic converter on the down tube. So I built a jig to keep the input and output stationary while I cut out the cat and weld in a straight pipe. It actually turned out pretty good for a flux cored wirefeed job. I was actually pretty proud of myself. Naturally I don't have any pictures of the finished product, but I'll take one tonight.

First Cat:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24643361992/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1600/24643361992_c371e71d6a_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>

Jig:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24667682531/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1657/24667682531_c84929efe6_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="Untitled"></a>

After completing the manifold connector, I set upon the tailpipe setup. It turned out not so bad and will get me by until I figure out what I want to do for the long term. All in all, I am pretty happy with my first attempt at an exhaust system. We'll see how long it takes before I get the attention of the local police with my straight pipe extravaganza.

Then I was on the rest:
Gearshift
Driveline
Ignition Connections
Motor/Transmission Bolt down
Clutch Linkage Adjustment
Fluids
Coil
Carburator install
Dampner Torque down (I almost forgot, but I had added it to my list of to-dos)

That pretty much completed my list! So I was off to start her for the first time in a few months!

Did it start right up?




No....

I think I have the distributor mistimed by 180 degrees. I tried 5 or 6 times and no go, just a shot of fuel back up through the carburetor... I set the timing to 4 degrees (while cranking). So, I'll pull the distributor and spin the rotor. I think while I've got it out, I'll spin the oil pump again.

Anyway, that's about it for now. Hopefully I'll have good news tonight!

Take care everyone!

-Matt

 

One last thing. Hopefully I'll have REV 2 of the slide lock printed tomorrow. The printer was busy last week so they couldn't print it for me. I also had them print me the cubby gauge pod that Gary had.

-Matt

 

IT RUNS!

So, I flip flopped the rotor had my wife help me set the timing and it tried to start when she was turning it over...

So she hopped out and let me have the honors. It started so smooth and easy and it sounds awesome.

After a quick check for leaks I started the cam break in. About 5 minutes in, the radiator sprung a leak. A nice hole about the size of a pencil was shooting a stream water all over the front of the engine.

So. I shut 'er down. I'll pull the radiator and take in in to be repaired.

OK, time for dinner. My wife is giving me crap for writing to you guys instead of sitting down with her. To be honest, I'd rather sit with her than hang with you guys (virtually of course).

I'll do my best for an update tomorrow evening!

Take Care Everyone!

-Matt

 

Congrat's! That's a good feeling.

 

Cheesecake, "timing" is not just for engines!!!

 

IIRC, Ecclesiastes 3 has a lot to say about that. Or, the song Turn, Turn, Turn. I'm not sure David (the other one) envisioned time spent on FTE. But, there is a time for every purpose under heaven, so…

 

That is rich, Gary!

 

Hello all!

My wife was able to get the parts printed we were discussing earlier. The first is Gary's cubby hole cover/gauge pod:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24550617050/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1575/24550617050_a65712b925_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

You'll notice that I sanded this part. Unfortunately they printed them with boats, so it had an extra layer that I had to peel off. I thought it would be a good idea to use a wire wheel to try and peel it of. Definitely not a good idea. It was a bit of work to sand it down... Another picture:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24550592600/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1488/24550592600_38ec220cf3_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Untitled"></a>

Here is the slide lock that I designed. It works pretty well. It is something that a person would have to reach his hand up behind the panel to push it out of the panel:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24219199863/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1497/24219199863_6b2e437cbd_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24550549910/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1686/24550549910_9b3afe29d6_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24217925384/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1701/24217925384_6891ab2574_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24728217702/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1703/24728217702_0517fbd2ee_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

I had to file a bit of the "keeper" in order to push it through the door panel:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24728258412/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1645/24728258412_ce63287654_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Untitled"></a>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24550566360/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1473/24550566360_9762554b05_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

All in all. I think I'll need to make one more revision and Ill have a pretty good product. At the very least it will work for my truck. I might try to make a removable keeper that holds it against the panel. I'll probably work on that during this weekend. I also received my new radiator. So, another project for the weekend.

Take Care Everyone,

Matt

 

Matt - Looking good! I'm not sure what "boats" are with respect to printing, but it looks like the part sits down in the recess pretty well. Yes? Are you going to use it?

On the lock, it doesn't look like it deformed the door panel like I thought it would. For a removable keeper are you think to use the original spring piece?

 

Nice job on the lock plate.
To hold it in the way you have it now if the panel in brittle it could break the panel.
What if you were to put a slot on 1 side, say top like you have your taper part and you fit that slot around the panel and on the bottom have a "L" part that screws on to the main part and clamps the panel between the lock plate & "L" clamp?


Or cant it be done this way to get the panel on & off the door? My door panels don't have the lock plates so don't know how it all works.
Dave ----

 

Gary,
For the cubby cover, this was mainly a test. I am working on a design that will hold an iPhone... I was thinking of having a slot that I could slide the phone into that would have a connector to charge it and connect to my Pioneer head. Regardless, it sits very well in the recess, I had to do a bit of sanding on the corners, they were a bit sharp to fit into the recess. something that I'll have to fix on my design.

As for the slide keeper, just as Dave said, it will probably be something that I print that holds it against the panel. I need to double check the door well, but I don't think I have the original metal keeper. I definitely think that this design would work with it though. This would be something that could be used for those who have broken sliders but still have the spring...

I'll probably post something on the thread that talks about the Fog Light switch too. If someone had the dimensions or a drawing already complete, I could convert to 3D and have it printed on my next go-round.

-Matt