Wow... I hereby modify my estimate to 4-6 weekends.

 

Somehow I've missed this thread. Luckily David tipped me off about the 3D printed slide locks. Cool! Are you going to do more of them? How do you plan to a fix the spring plate to them?

 

David?? Who's David.......

 

Cheesecake, I like the list ideal, I have a white board I used when building my drag car and will use it for the truck when my list will fit on the board


Headlight Fluid, man another thing to add to my list LOL


BTW that bent front bolt in cross member will be replaced with the not so bent one from the parts truck. Pulled it yesterday along with the nose & front suspension.
Dave ----

 

Sorry, Ron. RON! RON! RON!

 

Gary,
I'm definitely going to print more locks... My first design was pretty much a fail. There was a backing piece that connected to the front slider that pressed against the door panel. It might have worked, but it was cumbersome and the backing piece didn't print properly.

To answer your question: I'm not going to use the spring plate. The spring plate was missing from the driver's door, so I'm going to use a different design that integrates an angled piece that will hold it against the door.

Here is a rendering of what it's going to look like. If this revision doesn't work, I'll change it to include a piece that slides in across the top and bottom that will lock it against the door panel.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/23944278983/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="plastic self hold-Model"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1451/23944278983_5f9b60f846_z.jpg" width="640" height="512" alt="plastic self hold-Model"></a>

The flat rectangular piece will attach to the back with machine screws. It will be there only to hold the slider in place. I'm uncertain if it will work in this configuration. I'll probably know this week as I'm going to see if my wife can print it this week.

Once I perfect my design, I'll share the file with others, or I'll print them for a reasonable price. I've wanted to get a printer of my own, so this may give me an opportunity/reason to purchase one.

-Matt

 

I'm very interested. I'm going back with sliders, and do have a few good ones. The failure point on them appears to be fastening the spring to the front. Ford just melted the plastic over after it went through slots in the spring. But, since there's not much "meat" in the front, if the melted plastic fails it is hard to attach the spring. However, if your front had more meat and we could put screws through the spring, that would probably work.

On the other hand, I see how yours will lock in using the ramped piece. But, I'm wondering if you can get it in w/o damaging the door panel. There's no give anywhere so the panel will have to give. And, if you get it in how do you get it out?

In any event, I'd like to help however I can. Please count me in.

 

Gary,
I think you are spot on... I think this design could definitely use the metal spring, I'll just need to eliminate the "ramp". I can definitely have 2 designs to print. One for those who have the spring, and one for those that do not.

You are correct about the door panel needing to give... My door panels are pretty much shot, so I'm going to do some testing with them to see what will happen with this design. I have a feeling you'll be correct. I'll keep everyone posted after I get them printed.

-Matt

 

The slider is the last thing you put on the door and the first thing you take off, so there has to be a way to get it off from the front.

 

I rebuilt the carburetor yesterday during the Broncos/Patriots game. There are some very good write ups on this site, so I will spare you the details. All in all, the rebuild went well. The only thing of note was the broken "E" vacuum port. I did a little repair job.

I took a 3/16" brass hose coupling and filed down one of the barbed ends so that it fits into the carburetor:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/23980215204/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1541/23980215204_ba4b8e6f03_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

I chucked it into my drill and held it against a file and was able to get it to a press fit. I put a bit of epoxy on it to ensure a good seal:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24608335575/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1490/24608335575_89d9ec6cb2_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

Additionally, I am having difficulty figuring out how to adjust the choke, I'll be doing some searches to see if I can get it set properly. Lastly, I'll take a picture of my "list" tonight, I put a pretty good dent in it this last weekend.

-Matt

 

Cheesecake, see if this link helps...


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ent-101-a.html

 

Nice job on the barbed fitting never know it was ever broken.
Dave ----

 

Thanks Dave, my hope is that after the lines are connected, a person shouldn't see a fix. Regardless, the carburetor looks like it has seen better days, I'll probably wind up getting a new one down the road.

1986F150six,
Thanks for the write up, I was looking at it last night. It sounds like I might be overcomplicating the bi-metal spring adjustment. I guess it is done by 'feel'. Since I have it out of the truck and in my 72 degree house, I'll throw it on the back porch for a few hours and then make the adjustment.

One other question: After playing with the carburetor for a while, it seems like that when it is cold, hitting the throttle will set the high idle cam. I'm finding that when I do this, it goes beyond the last 'cog'. Here is a picture:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/mak1979/24432639162/in/album-72157658615320634/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1620/24432639162_d0b15a2ea3_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>

The high idle cam will flip all the way to the blue dot, instead of the red dot. The instructions on the rebuild kit have the choke set at the red dot. Should I set the choke opening for the blue dot?

What do you fellas think?

-Matt

 

When it flips to the blue dot is that with the choke rod hooked up and choke closed?
If so then I would say that is working as it should. Choke closed the rod should pull the cam to the fast side.


Now if the choke is open and the rod pulls the cam to fast side then something is wrong. Cam on backwards?


For choke adjustment I have always done it by feel. Start off with it lightly closed as a start and adjust from there. BTW some carbs have a notch you line up as a starting point.
Dave ----

 

I've posted the instructions from the factory shop manual on adjusting the YFA here: Carter YFA 1bbl - Gary's Garagemahal. They call the position yours is going to the "high step", and seem to say it should go there. But, when you mount the carb on the engine there's a fast idle speed adjustment spelled out as well.