Cummins into 1996 E-SuperDuty Bus
#1
Cummins into 1996 E-SuperDuty Bus
After gathering parts, pieces, and info for over a year I have started my swap to install a 91.5 Cummins 12v and Ford 5R110 auto trans into my 1996 Ford E-SuperDuty shuttle bus. I have modified the bus to haul my Cobra replica and felt like the 460/E4OD just wasn't cutting it. I don't tow anything, but the loaded weight is fairly close to the 14,050# max and this thing moves a lot of air. I procured a 1991.5 12v out of a 116,000 mile Dodge truck, a 5R110 trans from a wrecked 2006 6.0 F250. Adapter and flexplate are from DCS. The intercooler, radiator, and quite a few odds and ends are from a 2006 Ford E450. The 5R110 wiring harness mods and tuning is by Jason @ Custom Vehicle Services in Montana. The bus will use the stock computer for the gauges, etc. and a Ford truck computer for the transmission.
Before I started the actual swap, I wanted to do whatever I could so I could minimize the Downtime. I changed the Dana 80 rear gear from the factory 4.63 to a 3.73 ratio, changed the dash cluster to a F250 diesel model with factory tach, and installed a 4" exhaust with Donaldson muffler.
I built a run-in stand for the Cummins engine so I could evaluate the condition of the engine. After replacing a leaking lift pump, it ran and sounded great. Pulled the pan to look over things and replaced the rear main seal and pan gasket. Did the usual Killer Dowel Pin mod with front seal kit. Not looking fox max horsepower, but a good highway cruiser. Replaced the valve springs with 60# springs, installed a fuel pin, governor spring kit, an exhaust manifold from a Ford school bus, Holset HE351 turbo, gave it all a good cleaning and a Cummins Apex Red paint job.
Before I started the actual swap, I wanted to do whatever I could so I could minimize the Downtime. I changed the Dana 80 rear gear from the factory 4.63 to a 3.73 ratio, changed the dash cluster to a F250 diesel model with factory tach, and installed a 4" exhaust with Donaldson muffler.
I built a run-in stand for the Cummins engine so I could evaluate the condition of the engine. After replacing a leaking lift pump, it ran and sounded great. Pulled the pan to look over things and replaced the rear main seal and pan gasket. Did the usual Killer Dowel Pin mod with front seal kit. Not looking fox max horsepower, but a good highway cruiser. Replaced the valve springs with 60# springs, installed a fuel pin, governor spring kit, an exhaust manifold from a Ford school bus, Holset HE351 turbo, gave it all a good cleaning and a Cummins Apex Red paint job.
#2
Began the actual swap on Sept. 27. Started by removing the bumper, grill, radiator support, and everything else in front except for the fenders. Drained 35 gallons on gas, washed out the tank and lines and replaced the fuel pump/gauge tank module with a diesel unit without pump from a 2006 E450 and replaced the fuel filler neck and hoses from the same E450. (Also added "Diesel Fuel Only" stickers on the outside and inside of the fuel door as a symbolic gesture)
Removing the perfectly good 460/E4OD combo was pretty uneventful. Just unbolting and placing all the parts in the proper pile. Installing the 12v Cummins was another story. I knew it would fit in a Ford van chassis thanks to "Rebar" and others, but it goes in tight, so I built a "Lifting Cradle" to fit on my engine hoist that would straddle the engine. With the rear 3 valve covers removed, I had 3/8" height clearance from the crossmember to the cowl. I knew that after the oil pan sump cleared the crossmember, the engine could drop down and there would be plenty of room. Squeezed the engine in with a little help from the wife and son and blocked it up, then I bolted up the transmission. Spent a few short evenings removing/re-routing wiring and stuff, measuring, and moving the engine/trans around to make sure that everything would clear reasonably well (Much less room than a truck has for all the parts). After I got the engine/trans about where I wanted it, I modified the transmission crossmember. Ended up dropping it 5/8" and elongating the slotted holes to move the trans mount back about 2". Then it was time to fabricate the engine mounts (none available for a van chassis). This proved to be VERY easy. Using the stock 1991.5 Dodge Cummins brackets and insulators resting on the front crossmember, it put the engine at the correct height and angle. The studs on the insulators even stuck through some large holes in the crossmember. All I had to do was cut some 3/8" thick plates and drill holes to line up with the studs on the insulators and existing holes in the crossmember. Now with the engine and trans bolted down in place the real work can begin. Still have to shorten the front section of the driveshaft a few inches, finish up fuel lines, run transmission lines, wiring, throttle cable, power steering, etc. Fabricate mounts for the radiator, intercooler, and transmission cooler.
Removing the perfectly good 460/E4OD combo was pretty uneventful. Just unbolting and placing all the parts in the proper pile. Installing the 12v Cummins was another story. I knew it would fit in a Ford van chassis thanks to "Rebar" and others, but it goes in tight, so I built a "Lifting Cradle" to fit on my engine hoist that would straddle the engine. With the rear 3 valve covers removed, I had 3/8" height clearance from the crossmember to the cowl. I knew that after the oil pan sump cleared the crossmember, the engine could drop down and there would be plenty of room. Squeezed the engine in with a little help from the wife and son and blocked it up, then I bolted up the transmission. Spent a few short evenings removing/re-routing wiring and stuff, measuring, and moving the engine/trans around to make sure that everything would clear reasonably well (Much less room than a truck has for all the parts). After I got the engine/trans about where I wanted it, I modified the transmission crossmember. Ended up dropping it 5/8" and elongating the slotted holes to move the trans mount back about 2". Then it was time to fabricate the engine mounts (none available for a van chassis). This proved to be VERY easy. Using the stock 1991.5 Dodge Cummins brackets and insulators resting on the front crossmember, it put the engine at the correct height and angle. The studs on the insulators even stuck through some large holes in the crossmember. All I had to do was cut some 3/8" thick plates and drill holes to line up with the studs on the insulators and existing holes in the crossmember. Now with the engine and trans bolted down in place the real work can begin. Still have to shorten the front section of the driveshaft a few inches, finish up fuel lines, run transmission lines, wiring, throttle cable, power steering, etc. Fabricate mounts for the radiator, intercooler, and transmission cooler.
#3
I finished the fuel lines, used the stock throttle cable after enlarging the hole in the bracket, bolted in the starter, ran the vacuum lines, and a few more items. Saw that the oil pan is almost touching at one spot so I need to make a couple of 1/4" thick spacers for the motor mounts. Swapped the reservoir from the 460 power steering pump to the Cummins pump. The power steering lines worked out with a little re-bending and moving around. Also decided that there is not enough clearance for the low mounted A/C compressor so I will need to use a mid-mount bracket set. Wanted to post a few more pictures.
#4
Things are moving along pretty well considering I only get a couple of hours a day to work on the bus. Got my driveshaft shortened and installed this week and installed all of the sensors on the engine. Now sorting out the mid-mount A/C compressor mount, A/C lines, and water necks, etc. Next I'll build the alternator mount and install the 2" front lift blocks to level things out. Then it will be radiator, trans lines and cooler, exhaust, intercooler and finish up the wiring.
#6
#7
Thanks for the compliments. Although pretty much impossible, my goal is to try and make everything look like it's always been there. The downpipe from the turbo is going to be reasonably close to the engine cover, but I will wrap it and also add a heatshield.
Since the pictures, I have added the 2" leveling blocks to the front end, mounted the A/C compressor, radiator, de-gas radiator reservoir, started installing the transmission lines, and ran the heater hoses and upper radiator hose. Progress is a little slow since I kinda have to work everything together so nothing gets in the way of anything else.
Since the pictures, I have added the 2" leveling blocks to the front end, mounted the A/C compressor, radiator, de-gas radiator reservoir, started installing the transmission lines, and ran the heater hoses and upper radiator hose. Progress is a little slow since I kinda have to work everything together so nothing gets in the way of anything else.
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#9
Tonight I worked on the A/C lines and Turbo downpipe.
#10
This time change is killing my progress. I don't get much daylight to work on the bus in the evenings. Finished up the A/C lines, mounted the trans cooler and 1/2" lines, fabricated the alternator brackets for the 130 amp unit. Started the 4" exhaust down pipe off of the turbo. I still need to do something about the lower radiator hose, mount and pipe in the intercooler, finish up the wiring, air filter, fan shroud, and modify the gas pedal. I'll try to get a few more pictures this weekend.
#11
#12
I still question my sanity about once a week for even doing this project. It really doesn't make any sense to remove a perfectly running 460 and transmission but I still consider the Cummins diesel to be the ultimate powerplant. Hopefully I can finish it this month since I sure do miss driving my bus!
#13
Awww get over that feeling ASAP---its useless and futile resisting the urge to tinker, modify, adapt and otherwise begin odysseys so foolhardy and ill advised we need to let others question our sanity----instead of beating ourselves up. Add a woman of the significant order category and all that doubt is externally exponentially multiplied..........
A good example is my long time and current in-process quest to adapt an F-Series instrument cluster w/tack into a pre-04 E-series dash----those not prone to tackle the impossible shy away.........
I get the logic behind your swap---if the end result is what YOU want screw the rest of 'em---they're all in the rear view and fading fast anyway.
A good example is my long time and current in-process quest to adapt an F-Series instrument cluster w/tack into a pre-04 E-series dash----those not prone to tackle the impossible shy away.........
I get the logic behind your swap---if the end result is what YOU want screw the rest of 'em---they're all in the rear view and fading fast anyway.
#14
This thing is driving me nuts. Got the Cummins engine running but have no oil pressure, water temp, and voltmeter gauges. Everything else seems to work. I used all of the original Ford sensors, retained the sensor wiring in the engine harness. Anyone got any clues on what I maybe left out or am missing?
#15
This thing is driving me nuts. Got the Cummins engine running but have no oil pressure, water temp, and voltmeter gauges. Everything else seems to work. I used all of the original Ford sensors, retained the sensor wiring in the engine harness. Anyone got any clues on what I maybe left out or am missing?
Clusters and more importantly the wiring leading into them is significantly different between years and even fuel types. If it matters I'm attempting to modify my '03's cluster wiring harness to accommodate an F250 cluster just to gain the tachometer feature. This entails reconfiguring my van's wiring to fit the F250 cluster. Your solution might be much the same--reconfigure your IC input wiring so the sensor signals are reaching the proper connections.
AND/OR you might have a ground wire out of place somewhere between the engine wiring harness that carries those sensor signals back to the PCM and then onward to the IC.