Tonight I bought a 460 in a 78 Lincoln mark 5. It was running and driving. I'm gonna build it and put it in a 78 bronco I got. I'm gonna look up the casting #s and see what all it's got. I'm wanting a pump gas engine that's fairly mild

 

It's an internally balanced engine with D3VE heads.
Install the straight up double roller timing set from a post 1987 efi 460.
This will wake it up.

You are going to need a rear sump oil pan (with dipstick) and extended oil pump pickup.
Also exhaust manifolds or headers from a 4x4 truck to get it into your Bronco.
Passenger car manifolds don't point in the right way.

You may want to do a little porting on the exhaust side.
Short side radius and thermactor humps kill flow if you decide to go with headers.
Porting instructions and templates are available from reincarnation high performance.

An aluminum 4V intake like the Weiand Stealth or Edelbrock Performer is a worthwhile addition. If for nothing else the engine will warm up faster and shed ~#50.

 

Ck out this oil pan set up, that I am about to order. L and L Products

Or a get a 83-97 Ford van pan, and a 84DS-1 pick up tube. A thread in dip stick housing is better than a press in one.

X2 on get truck exhaust manifolds, car one are to short and the wrong exit angle and will make you want to notch the passenger side frame rail if you try to use them.

You can run the front sump oil pan, but you CAN hit the oil pan with the front axle pumpkin, at least on a 4x4 F250 you can....

No need to change the front timing cover, just cap off the dip stick hole. Timing gear set from a 68-71 carb motor or a 88-97 EFI motor will work to straight up time it.

L&L has fenderwell exit headers in stock now. Or Maddog has a good reputation and are less $ than L&L.

ArdWrknTrk thanks for porting info.

 

Cast iron *carbureted truck* exhaust manifolds without any air injection ports were available for around $200 recently.

L&L never seem to have chassis exit in stock and their paint doesnt hold up.
Banks are just too much $$$$ for most old trucks.

 

I talked to L&L yesterday, they said that they have some in stock now. And I have read in some other forums about them having paint issues.

No worries for me there, I plan on using one of the 2 sets (one new, one used) that I have. They are the Electroless Nickeshield Plated fenderwell exits that I came across years ago at a swap meet.

So ArdWrknTrk what is your work over advice on D3VE-A2A heads? I have to pull the starter to get to the block #'s still.

 

Why do you care about the block#?
If it is D9TE it just means the liners are a little longer (won't clear an internal balance crank)

Either way the block should be decked for a performance engine.
Pistons are too far in the hole for good quench.

I am FAR from a good engine builder.
I CAN remember facts and numbers...

So much depends on your goals.
Then select components that work together to support that outcome.

 

I though I needed to know the block and head #'s to be better informed when ordering parts??

Thank you for the quick answer, I am going to make my own thread on this. I did not mean to hijack this one.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...preciated.html

 

Do you still gotta change oil pans in a lifted truck. I was gonna get headers anyway and a intake

 

When does aluminum cylinder heads make a noticeable difference over the dv3e? At what compression ratio or rpm do they matter? I know they are expensive just curious if they really matter on street engines.

 

A lift doesn't move the engine mounts any farther from the crossmember.

 

Aluminum heads will always be a noticiable improvement over stock iron heads.
The ports are better. The valves are likely bigger. The CC design is better and they are less prone to detonation and cracks due to the fact they conduct heat better.

If all you are looking for is 3-350 hp then do a little porting and have at it.

If you're going to spend more than $6-700 on your iron heads (and class rules don't call for stock iron heads) then bite the bullet and get TFS Streets or even the Edelbrock heads.
They flow better out of the box than you will likely ever get your D3VE's, they have good support and are much more forgiving of tuning.

I wouldn't run iron at or above 9.5:1 on pump 93 unless I had to.

 

My goal is 400ish hp. And not looking to rev it past 5500. Gonna get arp rod bolts for sure.

 

No you do not, at least not on my set up anyway. But you can hit the front axle pumpkin on a front sump oil pan, if you off road it hard enough.

Mine HAD worn out highboy 6 leaf pack springs and front blocks when I got it and the PO hit the pan at least once. I think that is why he put the blocks on. See the dent in the pan in the 2nd pic?

I put a 4" Rough Country lift on the front and do not like the set up, those springs are sagging already.

I think with a 6" on the front you should be ok?

 

400 is doable.

Might be easier to build a mild stroker than push a stock rotating assembly hard all the time.

These things had (at best) 220Hp from the factory.

 

77&79,
Do you have a pic of the early style frame crossmember where it passes under the pan?
Front sump definitely doesn't clear an '80& up 4x4 crossmember and I'd like to see the difference