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I had a question about how much is too much in regards to pinion play? I just replaced the U-joint on the rear end that lasted about 2 years and 10,000 mi. This is the second replacement in 5 years of ownership. The truck is relatively stock 79 F150 no lift on 31" tires with a 9" rear. I'll try to post a video with the thread but I have roughly 1/4"-1/2" of play. I am thinking this is what is eating the U-joints. Thoughts?
I think your rear gears are worn and it's causing the u'joint to go bad because the applied torque is torqing on the caps. Alternatively the straps are too tight and deforming the caps. The ring and pinion shouldn't be that loose.
By "play" I assume you mean when rotating the yoke? If so.........yeah pull the pumpkin and have a look. I have seen 9" rears run for a long time with more than that with no issues but that doesn't mean that its right. If its up and down "play" at the yoke, You've got bad pinion bearings but if it's that loose, you would also have a leak at the pinion seal. Beyond that, regular greasing is the key to long u joint life.
I had lots of pinion play in my F-150 for a long time. It wasn't up n down play but L-R. (I had a Lock Rite) For awhile I was going thru U -joints until I got the drive shaft balanced. After that I had no U-joint issues for a long time. Also make sure the 2 ends of the drive shaft (meaning the U-joints) are "in phase" and not 180 out from each other.
By "play" I assume you mean when rotating the yoke? If so.........yeah pull the pumpkin and have a look. I have seen 9" rears run for a long time with more than that with no issues but that doesn't mean that its right.
I think your rear gears are worn and it's causing the u'joint to go bad because the applied torque is torqing on the caps. Alternatively the straps are too tight and deforming the caps. The ring and pinion shouldn't be that loose.
'Time to pull the pumpkin to have a peek.
That is what I was afraid of, time to dive in to the forum dungeon on the Ford 9". The truck has a 390 w/NP 435, at 65mph it's pushing 4k rpm. I know it is limited by the transmission, but I was wondering how much difference a different gear ratio would make? The goal being that I can get up to the speed limit on the freeway 70mph without fear of death.
I had lots of pinion play in my F-150 for a long time. It wasn't up n down play but L-R. (I had a Lock Rite) For awhile I was going thru U -joints until I got the drive shaft balanced. After that I had no U-joint issues for a long time. Also make sure the 2 ends of the drive shaft (meaning the U-joints) are "in phase" and not 180 out from each other.
yeah I had a new driveshaft built a couple years ago and it is in phase. I think that is pretty solid.
I didn't watch the video as data is limited but rotational slop in the rear differential will not affect the U joints and as rusty as the one you have in your picture is it's likely lack of lubrication was the culprit. How often did you grease the u joint? And did you grease it on installation if it has a grease zerk as it's common for them to come with assembly grease and neads real grease added after installation.
Edit, even if you did grease the U joint religiously it isn't all that uncommon for one of the yolks to not take grease and rust..... I'm a farmer and have hundreds of the darn things and have seen it all.
The U-Joint was greased at install, It was in for about 2 years I think I greased it once or twice. I also used to live in the only temperate rain forest in North America 150+ inches of rain a year. It seems like with the rotational play it would slam the U-joint every time power is applied or removed.
I am not trying to start an argument and I'm not saying that something isn't wrong with your trucks rear end but I have replaced countless U joints that looked exactly like that and every one of them has been caused buy lack of lubrication and have never seen a u joint fail that way from impact damage.
Some have been directly caused by my lack of maintenance but the vast majority have been just because the grease only pushes into three of the four yolk bearings and the fourth one without lubrication and rusts and fails.... It is way more common than you would think
No Worries twigsv10 I was agreeing with you that was probably part of the problem. I appreciate the advice and I'm definitely going to be more diligent greasing the U-Joints.
No Worries twigsv10 I was agreeing with you that was probably part of the problem. I appreciate the advice and I'm definitely going to be more diligent greasing the U-Joints.
I wasn't trying to say you didn't grease it often enough but that I have had them fail in exactly the same way even when greased twice a day on Farm equipment.... Shoot I just replaced the rear driveshaft U joint in my Ranger again because I didn't Lube it after after the Engine, transmission and transfer case swap.....
Absolutely agree with what Twigs said!! Not saying that is what caused this particular failure but it sure fits the bill. I worked in farm dealership repair shops in an earlier pre-body shop life and saw a zillion driveline u-joint failures (and I truly mean a lot on a daily basis!!). Many ,many reasons but very common for 1 cup NOT taking grease. Still notice to this day after replacing a u-joint that the grease, at times, will squirt out on maybe 3 cups and not the 4th and it always makes you wonder and sometimes swear. Also the chance of 1 roller being out of place when the cups were installed/pressed in originally. There is a technique I use to install the cups where there is NO chance of a roller or 2 tipping over. Gary
I go for those non-greaseable sealed for life u-joints. The part person told me they use better seals or that over-greasing them wrecks the seals. Whatever it is, they last longer for me, even if I'm doing the Moses through puddles and melting ice roads.
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