Starter clicking
Starter clicking
Hello all. I just bought an 03 f250 5.4l . I'm just using it to plow my driveway this winter. The starter just clicks , after multipule attempts it will start. The previous owner said it's been like that for a long time but always starts.
I'd like to fix this now while it's warm out , before I buy a starter I'm wondering if I should look into other causes and how to trouble shoot the issue.
Any advise?
I'd like to fix this now while it's warm out , before I buy a starter I'm wondering if I should look into other causes and how to trouble shoot the issue.
Any advise?
Well the frame is pretty rusty. I was thinking maybe the grounds arnt making good connection? I took the wires of the starter and cleaned everything with a wire brush , but is thier anywhere else I should look to clean? .battery is good.
How do I troubleshoot the selinoid?
I'm thinking if it was the starter itself , it would have died long ago and not lasted for years.
How do I troubleshoot the selinoid?
I'm thinking if it was the starter itself , it would have died long ago and not lasted for years.
Have you had the battery tested or replaced? How old is the battery? Some will still start an engine most of the time but not have enough cranking amps to get the job done every time.
Check your wires and grounds for the starter. Make sure the wires don't have any spots where the insulation has been worn away.
For giggles swap out the relay for the starter.
I don't remember off the top of my head if the solenoid is mounted on the starter or still separate (this is my first ford). but if it's attached to the starter it's easier to replace the whole unit as most places won't carry the parts for just the solenoid.
Check your wires and grounds for the starter. Make sure the wires don't have any spots where the insulation has been worn away.
For giggles swap out the relay for the starter.
I don't remember off the top of my head if the solenoid is mounted on the starter or still separate (this is my first ford). but if it's attached to the starter it's easier to replace the whole unit as most places won't carry the parts for just the solenoid.
If you leave the truck sit a lot get a battery tender and it will maintain a good charge in the battery. Sounds like a low battery to me but your right to clean the rust off all the ground wires as well as make sure the positive connectiond are clean also.
That is usually a weak battery. Next time it does it, have a jump start ready & see if the problem is solved.
A firewall mounted solenoid can be bypassed to test if it is the problem.
If you have an auto trans., ignition switch to run position. then take a channel locks pliers & jump the 2 large screws on the solenoid.
This bypasses the solenoid & your starter should turn over.
Don't be timid, it will spark.
If you have a manual trans, you will have to block the clutch pedal down to defeat the safety switch there.
A firewall mounted solenoid can be bypassed to test if it is the problem.
If you have an auto trans., ignition switch to run position. then take a channel locks pliers & jump the 2 large screws on the solenoid.
This bypasses the solenoid & your starter should turn over.
Don't be timid, it will spark.
If you have a manual trans, you will have to block the clutch pedal down to defeat the safety switch there.
Basic trouble shooting 101. Lets find the problem verses throwing new parts at it until it works. A so- so starter will be even worse with bad connections. A new starter put in its place without doing anything else may work great for a little while until the other weak links put too much stress on it and take it out again. Typically right at or before the big snow storm hits.
All battery cables down to the starter(through the separate solenoid) need to be clean and tight. Not visually but physically take each one apart clean and reassemble. Spray battery terminal protectant over the cleaned connections including at the starter connection for longevity. The secondary (large battery) negative cable to engine block connection is often overlooked. Star washers add to the problem. I like the cable end to sit flush on the block then apply a lock washer on the fastener side. Ohm out the cables with a good volt/ohm meter. They should exhibit low oms. A cable can look good yet internally have corrosion/high resistance. Especially so with an old or high mileage vehicle.
Load test the battery with a good dead load tester. Still acting up? Pull and bench test the starter and solenoid as a set. Take both to an automotive electrical service house for a test and then a rebuild if found bad. Starters and solenoids can be intermittent when they get tired. Do a charging system check too. With the truck running the voltage at the battery should be ~13.8-14.2 VDC. Do this before and after you clean all the cables to see if there's a difference. Inspect the connections to the alternator as well. Report back the fix to close this loop.
All battery cables down to the starter(through the separate solenoid) need to be clean and tight. Not visually but physically take each one apart clean and reassemble. Spray battery terminal protectant over the cleaned connections including at the starter connection for longevity. The secondary (large battery) negative cable to engine block connection is often overlooked. Star washers add to the problem. I like the cable end to sit flush on the block then apply a lock washer on the fastener side. Ohm out the cables with a good volt/ohm meter. They should exhibit low oms. A cable can look good yet internally have corrosion/high resistance. Especially so with an old or high mileage vehicle.
Load test the battery with a good dead load tester. Still acting up? Pull and bench test the starter and solenoid as a set. Take both to an automotive electrical service house for a test and then a rebuild if found bad. Starters and solenoids can be intermittent when they get tired. Do a charging system check too. With the truck running the voltage at the battery should be ~13.8-14.2 VDC. Do this before and after you clean all the cables to see if there's a difference. Inspect the connections to the alternator as well. Report back the fix to close this loop.
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CD1993
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Aug 27, 2012 11:11 AM









