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Looks normal to me, but I didn't know 410s would run in that RPM range at 70 MPH.
A snapshot of the gauges is not unlike a photo vs. a video. Watching how the gauges move through the throttle range to WOT is more like a video... and very helpful when analyzing a truck's condition.
I have a 4:10 rear end and 2250 is close to what I would be tacking at 70 (don't do 70 much pulling in CA). It's about 1750 at 55. EOT, trans temp and all but the Voltage is close to what I would get, but my voltage would be around 13.8 or 13.9.
I've always thought the voltage was a little low but it's running a dozen lights on the trailer and it also charges the trailer batteries through the 7 pin so I attributed the lower voltage to that, and the A/C was running on max.
I've always thought the voltage was a little low but it's running a dozen lights on the trailer and it also charges the trailer batteries through the 7 pin so I attributed the lower voltage to that, and the A/C was running on max.
check when your not pulling in the day. It should be closer to 14v. If not put a voltmeter on the battery on high idle and see if near 14v then.
Voltage looks ok to me for a fully charged battery. Here's a nearly 2 hour drive cycle. Starting EOT was 118 degrees. I assume the battery was fully charged from the previous drive.
This shows an initial charge to recover from starting and then some driving with a fully charged battery.
It was an Xgauge I installed and it worked. I heard it probly wouldn't work with my auto trans but I tried it anyways. I'll see if I wrote down which one.
Only thing is it reads funny until the temp gets close to around 127. It reads like double until then so it gets to like 254 and then switches to 127 and then climbs up to normal temps. It just proves how the factory gauges are just dummy lights with needles. When the dash needle reaches the middle (normal) the Scangauge is reading in the 130's and the needle doesn't move again until ECT reads close to 230. Same with trans temp.
